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lonecat:
two ways to go in my opinion:
1) stack laminate segments-i’d use 3 layers say 5/8″ thick with middle segment offset from outside segments. you will need a plywood template to trim your laminate sandwhich with a good router using top mounted guide bearing
2) strip laminate the curve (my preference)-easily done by setting up chocks on a concrete or wood floor corressponding to the ID of your circle. Laminate thickness should be of the thickest you can rip for the given bend.
either method will require lots of clamps and
b waterproof
glue (i’d avoid the “new” generation aliphatic resin and stick to good ol urea formaldahyde formulations or polyurethanes). When cured, scrape extruded glue from surfaces and belt sand smooth or run through surface planer.
Replies
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lonecat:
two ways to go in my opinion:
1) stack laminate segments-i'd use 3 layers say 5/8" thick with middle segment offset from outside segments. you will need a plywood template to trim your laminate sandwhich with a good router using top mounted guide bearing
2) strip laminate the curve (my preference)-easily done by setting up chocks on a concrete or wood floor corressponding to the ID of your circle. Laminate thickness should be of the thickest you can rip for the given bend.
either method will require lots of clamps and
b waterproof
glue (i'd avoid the "new" generation aliphatic resin and stick to good ol urea formaldahyde formulations or polyurethanes). When cured, scrape extruded glue from surfaces and belt sand smooth or run through surface planer.
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I agree with Fred's number 2 suggestion.
Your matching with pine, so make real sure that the lumber you get to rip the strips, is select, totally clear of knots, super straight and tight grain. Look at the end of the boards that you are picking for this project and use the best ones that were flat sawn as far from the heart as possible.You want to bent the wood as a tree would bend.
Do a template of the inside radius, on a level floor.
Install blocks around the outside radius every foot of the way. Give yourself about 1/2" extra width only for the wedges.
Your radius seems to be large enough that you won't have to use steam or water, but make your strips no more than 1/2" thick.
Use the best waterproof glue available in your area.
Have all the pieces dry fitted and ready, have someone there to help and go for it.
Once they are all assembled, tighten down with the wedges and let it dry as to the manufacturers guide plus a little more.
Once dry, scrape off excess glue, use your router with a collar or guide and shape the rail to match the existing.
Do the same for the bottom rail.
Good luck
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Lonecat,
The other posts make good points. The bent lamination is my first choice. I,ve done it a couple of times. For your diameter of 10', I would probably use 5/16" thick layers which will minimize springback. Experiment a little to determine this. Redwood strips stuck together with urea-formaldahyde (plastic resin) glue should last a long time.
SteveB
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I've cut stuff like this on my bandsaw with a homemade circle jig and profiled it on a router table. Pretty easy, no gluelam. BB
*How about using PT ply as a few of the layers then topping it off with the "real" wood laminate on top and trimming out the edges?
*Thanks everybody. I hope my wife lets me use the kitchen floor, the one in my shop is REALLY nasty.
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Hello. It'll soon be time to pull off of stuff like curved walls indoors and move on to new hair-pullers outside. First up, I have to go over to the old side of town and fix up an 1880's porch. Porch wraps around two sides with a gazebo lookin affair at the corner. Somebody will know what to call this. Circular porch rail is gone, no remnants to study. The rail would go around about half of a 10' circle. The surviving rail on the straight parts is pine about 3 1/4" by about 1 3/4" on the flat. Top and bottom with pickets in between, in the traditional manner. How the hell am I going to make this rail? The jerk before me used plywood like a curved plate and you can imagine how good that looks now. Sections of cedar or redwood end to end then sawed out? ???? Thanks for any ideas.