Replies

1. 
   GUNN308 | Apr 16, 2003 07:15am | #1

   Wood can be done ,what's your pocketbook depth?

   You can get a vinyl tee in colors that taps into a flex channel at a carpet/flooring supply store, comes in 12' lengths. Just thought if your radiusing tile you probably know about this, if so sorry about the brain cramp if not give it a try.

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   scampernatra | Apr 17, 2003 04:04am | #2

   Yes I've used the flex rubber stuff before, but the h.o. wants wood. I could probably mill something custom but this is for a friend who is already getting a break on my labor and the time to make something custom just isn't in the numbers. I'm really looking for an easy fix (ha-ha) and didn't know if any old tile setters out there had a good solution.

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   migraine | Apr 17, 2003 08:50pm | #3

   Laminate the the curve with thin strips of wood.  I have found that 6) 1/8" layers is the best.  Thicker layers will work if the radius is large.   A good tight joint will make it look as if it is solid.  Doesn't take too long to do either.  It's more head scratching than labor.

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   scampernatra | Apr 19, 2003 11:03pm | #4

   Hey Migraine, could you maybe post a pic ? I'm not sure what your laminate approach would look like. I'm thinking of the wood strips that act as a bridge over both the carpet and the tile with a bevel on both edges. Are you thinking of the laminations running vertically? That is, if you looked at the trim from a top view you would see 5 seems between the 6 strips? And how would you get the bevels - router?

   You're right, I'm scratching my head!

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   migraine | Apr 19, 2003 11:23pm | #5

   All of this depends on the radius that you are trying to form to.  I guess I read your origional post incorrectly.  Some how I pictured you using it along a wall.   Don't know why, I guess I just spaced out.  There are ways that you can "tuck the carpet to the edge of the base, but it depends on the thickness transition between the two.  I have also had stone guys use a piece of solid stone that acts as the transition, but I have done it myself with wood.  Yes, one way is to do it with laminations just as tou have asked, with verticle glue joints.  The thickness of the individual strips depends on the how tight the radius is.  If you can bend the curve relatively easily, then that is the thickness of the strip that you should.  Try to use the same board that has straight grain and consistant color for the whole bend.  I have seen some that if you make a tight glue joint, it is almost impossible to tell its not one piece of wood.  On the outside of the radius, you can do the bevel/angle on the table saw.  Or just use a plane and/or spoke shave.  The facets take time.  If the radius is large, cut it out of a nice looking board and just cut equal angles at the ends to form the full lenght of the curve.  Patience and sharp tools are the trick to any quality job

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   migraine | Apr 19, 2003 11:24pm | #6

   Another way is to try steam bending.  some good articles in Fine Woodworking to search through the last 25+ years

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   scampernatra | Apr 20, 2003 05:09am | #7

   I'm a slow learner today. If I laminate the boards first, I can cut the bevels on my table saw but now I have a straight board. If I bend the individual boards to my radius and glue them up, now I have a nice curved board that I can't run through my saw. Also the carpet was already installed and tucked under, the tile will abut that and sit about 1/4" higher than the carpet. This means I'll also have to create a profile on the bottom of my trim to compress the carpet and make a nice looking piece.

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   migraine | Apr 20, 2003 06:31am | #8

   If the bevel is to be on the concave(outside of the curve),  you can put the saw on an angle and run it though. The parts basicaly is run through the air with only a small part sitting on the table.  If it is on the convex side(inside of the curve) you need to be a little more creative- like  with hand planes or a router.  trhe lip can be done with a router and a ribbeting bit.  might be better tio pull back the carpet, put in the strip and then replace the carpet.  If you run the parts through the saw, be safe.  I have done it this way so many times, large parts and small and never had an oops.  But there is always a first, either for me or you.