I currently have a 23 oz. Vaughan hammer with a curved handle that I do most of my framing with, and I love it. However, I would like a heavier head (say around a 28 oz…I love the heavier feel), but can’t find a curved-handle hammer with that heavy of a head.
Was thinking of buying a 28 oz. Vaughan and putting a curved replacement handle on it after somehow getting the head apart from its factory handle. Am I out of my mind to try this, or is it not that difficult? Any tips on how to seperate the handle and head and to put a head and handle back together would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance, Derek.
Replies
I actually ship shagbark hickory branches from creek bottom shade grown trees to the NW from IL and make my own handles, have NEVER broken a homemade handle, but the drying in linseed oil does take a few months to get started. Trying to find 15 YO 1-1/2 inch dia undergrowth is the trick.
What is the prosess you use to make handles? can you do a small article for us here?
Search for the posts by Bob Smalser, he did one on making handles for chisels among other topics. It should be very helpful, his articles are always great.
-Ray
Well, really short, no pix even.
Basically, every few year when I'm in Boss Hog's neck of the woods I go to a creek in the Sangamon river bottoms and look for shagbark saplings. Grandpa taught pop this and he me, and first one I remember cutting was in 1950. Anyway, ya gotta know what the bark looks like, look for somthing growing out of the creek bank with just the right curve (sometimes straight OK too) and about 3/8 in dia bigger than the largest dimension you want in the finished product. I try to find reall shady stuff so a 1-1/2 dia sapling is about 30 years old or more, really close growth rings.
Usually cut them about 4 ft long (use some for sledge handles, etc, wrap a 8 in dia or so bundle and check'em as luggage on the return flight, bark still on.Cut to about 2 " longer than final handle, strip the bark. Either put in a piece of pipe with boiled linseed oil and let it sit for 6 months or so, or oil et liberally every few day for a week, then every week for a month, then when you think about it - best done inthe barn as linseed oil odor often disagrees with guests, DW, etc.
After that it is simply a matter of bandsaw, draw knife, or 12" disk sander to get eye and shape in right proportion. Bandsaw 1' deep kerf in eye end and drive in hickory wedge with epoxy glue, couple of wedges after that.
Ah well, since you asked, I'll head to the basement and take a couple pix. OK, most of the hammers with cutom handles in the basement are specialty (non-framing) but the cross section inthe attachment will give you an idea - a couple of blanks there also. Doubt if you could find a decent broadaxe handle off the shelf anywhere these days, so threw that into the pix too.
PS: Forgot to mention, some of 'em get a dab of roofing cement smeared on them and let dry.
PPS: one more thing, ya gotta like to do it, at the hours involved, they are probably $200 handles <G>
Edited 8/10/2004 10:27 pm ET by JUNKHOUND
Edited 8/10/2004 10:32 pm ET by JUNKHOUND
Kool ... I was wondering about the oil part .
But were else can you get a $200 dollar handle for so little.
I'm not sure how the handle is attached to the head of your hammer, but if the handle is wood, here's how to do it.
Drill out the old wood from the head. Find a handle that has the length and shape you want it. Use a draw knive to shape the handle top so it will fit into the hammer head (tightly). First use a wooden wedge to spread the top of the handle in the head. Then use a metal wedge (usually provided) at right angle to other wedge to spread the top of the handle in the other direction.
Put the hammer in a vice with the head up. Wrap masking tape around the joint where the head meets the handle (I use plumbers putty). Poor 5 minute epoxy into the head/handle cavity. when it drys, belt sand the epoxy smooth and you're done.
Thanks to FWW for this method.
You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv