Due to some new appliances, I need to replace a Formica counter that has an existing sink.
Can someone suggest the best way to cut a hole in the new counter to accept a standard stainless sink? Should I drill and use a jigsaw? A plunge-cut with a circular saw?
Thanks for any advice.
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Replies
Jig saw, and Bosch makes a blade that cuts on the DOWN stroke. If you can't locate or use that style blade, you can tape the cut line with masking tape, to help both see your line ( on dark colors) and minimize chipping, but witha drop in sink, chipping ain't the end of the world. Just good practice to know.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
either way will work,whatever you are more comfortable with. Just watch the laminate for chipping that might show beyond edge of sink.
down cut blade in yur jig saw, no orbit mode from the top....
regular blade, jig saw and cut from the bottom....
if the corners of the cut out are radiused, use a hole to match the radius cuts in the corners... at least once or at both corners at the back splash...
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Toss the top on a pair of horses and use a hole saw on all four corners to prevent a split in the laminate, and a jig saw with a long blade cutting from the bottom for the cutout.
Works every time.
Thanks Sully. That sounds like something I can handle. When I make the cuts with the hole saw in the corners, should I do that from the top or the bottom?Thanks again.
from the top with a sharp hole saw. keeps the laminate from chipping.
As suggested above - use a hole saw for the corners and a jigsaw for the sides.Take a scrap 1x3 that's longer than the sink and after cutting almost all the way on your lines, screw the 1x3 to the cutout part with it overlapping on the counter part - that way you can finish your cuts with no worries about the cut-off falling as you finish your cuts. It supports the cut off, you simply lift it right off when you are finished cutting.Lately, I've been running into a lot of counter tops - especially the no-drip edge types, that require the sink to be farther towards the back - so that the cut for the rear edge needs to be within 3/4" of the integral backsplash.A cut that close would have to be made with a jigsaw from the bottom - I've been able to cut it with my Festool circular saw because it'll cut very close to the edge of the baseplate.JT
The "best way" and the way commercial shops cut out sinks is with a template and router. This is typically done either from the backside, when the backsplash is attached, or from the face when a backsplash doesn't limit the room needed for the router base.
You can use a jigsaw, drill holes in the four corners. The problem may be the same as with a router. There isn't enough room between the backsplash and the edge of the cutout for the jigsaw base. If you have room and use the jigsaw, put some tape on the base so the metal won't scratch the laminate.
My plumber cuts them out with a sawzall. He drills holes in the corners and holds the sawzall underneath the counter. This is actually quite easy. Just the tip of the blades sticks out above the counter and you can follow your line. The reciprocating action is not towards the face of the laminate and there is no chipping of the plastic.
Many kitchen sinks barely shoehorn into the base cabinet. In laying out the sink position, you have to keep in mind the faceframe of the cabinet, as well as webbing or corner braces. The same thing for the back edge in relation to the backsplash. Take your time and think this through before making a cut.
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+1 on being very careful regarding sink placement and thinking it through very thoroughly. Jeez, I wish they would make them even 3/4" less front to back, tho I realize the need to maximize the size. Having said that, I have had a few situations where i have special ordered smaller sinks when it was just too tight for one reason or another.
What hammer said is absolutely right. The only part that I do differently is drill four corners, use my bosch on 3 sides w/ a '0' orbit setting and finnish up on the rear w/ a GOOD sawzall and a fresh metal blade. What I mean by that is for example the new milwakee, it holds the blades very tightly to avoid any wandering whereas a dewalt or ridgid w/ the lever on the side allow the blade to flop making a straight cut difficult. I prefer to make my cuts once the top is set into place thus helping to remove anymore chance of error. The only diffucult part of this is that the foot of the sawzall is usually too wide and you're forced to hold the sawzall in mid air while cutting.
I've found that a lower speed combined w/ a new blade and a '0' orbit in the bosch jig saw eliminate any need for tape (at least with top flange sinks) so long as you don't push too hard. In any other setting I'd strongly advise going with the former pro's advice of tape or cutting from the backside .
What others have said, plus make sure the jigsaw is well up to speed before you move it, and move slowly. Too much bite, and and a slow blade speed can cause chips.
Scott.
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As well as the holes at all four corners, drill one in the center to hold the cut-out as you finish the cut. otherwise it falls, tearing the last bit of laminate and denting your cabinets.
you need to have a curve or radius at all four corners in order to prevent cracking the formica
Cutting a square corner increases the chance it will crack
That's what I heard anyway
Thats gospel for Corian or stone. Formica? Not so much, but good practice, J.I.C. Besides drilling the corner to start is a given, and the others are just turning the jiggy saw if you can.
In scores of sink cut outs, I've never seen a crack in HPL at a corner. I can see where a top with a leg at 90 might have an issue if the substrate flexes, but I'd love to hear if it happened to anyone here. It is mostly just the manu.'s covering thier butt.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Duane, you wondered if anyone has seen a cracked inside corner on an ell'd countertop.
Me has seen it. Several times. All (or so it seems) were on amatuer jobs. Crack in the lam right out of the corner where they had filed it square.
Talking to several longtime fabbers has me thinking it was the squaring w/file.
Also, many times I handle a huge tops laminate myself. I had one crack out of the corner, flopping it around. Cut square into the corners with my circular saw.
Now, I drill a round hole first, cut to that with a circ. saw. No more crackage.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
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Well, that solves that.
I've never MADE a sq. corner , so maybe thats why it never happened to me. I was taught that you don't do it, but hadn't witnessed why.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Actually, the sink flange has rounded corners. If you cut square corners in line with the clip flange, the tip of the corners will show!!! Do not cut square corners. There is some leeway with the size of the radius of the corner holes but it usually takes 1 1/4" or larger. Don't drill a 3/8" hole in the corners. Something that small may also show. It has nothing to do with the laminate cracking. Once it's adhered to the substrate, it becomes as strong as the substrate and won't act independently.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
My method is to hole saw the corners, sidewinder cut about 1/2 in in from correct cutout line, then finish with a couple of router passes.
HI,
How about if you have to make a round cut out for a bathroom sink? Where do you start?
Wanda
How about if you have to make a round cut out for a bathroom sink? Where do you start?
Round same as ellipse, hole saw cut (sized from the lav's template, or tracing the lav to be used) at ends (or just shy of the ends) of the major and minor axes.
Same for pure round, as the hole saw cuts are defining the front-back placement, the side-side the left-right placement.
Screw some scrap strapping across, same as a kitchen sink.
Then connect the hole cuts with jig saw or sawsall, whichever a person is more comfortable with/fits the conditions.
I go 12 o'clock to 9; then 6 to 3; 3 to 12, then 9 to 6, unless some other pattern makes more sense at the time.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
When I cut in a new sink I'll test the formica with the saw at hand to see how likely it is to chip. Cheap tops with super thin formica often chip easily, while others are pretty durable with a sharp blade.
I always start with a new blade and usually simply use a jig saw. Add blue tape to the surface to protect it from scratches from the saw base.
I always want the actual sink to be there since they are all built a little different.
Go through all the screws you are going to use to attach the new top to the cabinets to make sure none are too long and might penetrate the top. I know better, but didn't do this when we were in a hurry last year and put a screw through and had to replace the top.
Good building!
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This is so frigging simple I can't imagine someone mentioned a router. Laminate will splinter, so the best ideas involve smooth cuts with the blades recommeded. Done it many of times with no problem. Good speed.
As long as you are putting in a new counter, cut the sink hole away from the cabinets.
Put the counter in position on the cabinets. Put blue tape where the hole is going to be. This will make layout easier and help reduce chipping. Lay out the sink location. Be careful to follow the instructions about how much to offset the hole in from the sink outline. Use a hole drill (size should be specified on the instructions) to drill the corners from the top.
Turn the counter upside down on sawhorses. Draw lines connecting the holes you drilled.
Use a circular saw to cut the two short sides. You'll have to plunge cut to start, and won't quite finish the cuts in the corners. Use the tip in an earlier reply about using a 1x3 to keep the hole from falling out.
Cut the two long edges. You'll have to plunge cut again. Use a jigsaw to finish the cuts in the corners. You can use a regular blade because you're cutting from the bottom.
Carefully turn the counter over and place it on the cabinets. You need to be very careful because it's delicate where the hole is.
Should be nice, clean, chip-free hole.
I don't see how you can cut a neat hole with a Sawzall.