I’ve got a project covering a number of old indoor planters at some Wendy’s restaurants nearby.
The owner wanted 2 inch thick oak to kind of turn the planters into benches. The were supposed to be 20 inches square. He also said that he didn’t want to see any end grain.
The plan was to cut four large isoseles triangles, 20 inches on the long side. The lumber had to be a little over 10 inches wide. That meant that the 45 cut came out to a little over 14 inches. We do not have a cut off saw that will cut that wide. And I don’t know of one.
We were originally just supposed to two of them. We got the oak and planed it even. We had access to an old but fairly sturdy radial arm saw that would give us a 15 inch cut on a 45. We put a new teflon coated Freud 56 tooth carbide blade on the saw and set up a jig to hold things solidly.
It worked – but barely. The cut was slow and sometimes jammed. We finished the two we contracted as well as some other work. When the owner came by, he liked them so much that he now wants 16 more.
What kind of blade should I be using? I’m thinking of a wider crosscut blade with fewer teeth.
Any suggestion would be appreciated.
Riko
Replies
I would build a sled or attach a stout fence to your miter guide for the table saw. Much more accurate than a radial arm. Rough cut your stock into manageable pieces first. If you insist on using the RS, a negative hook blade will greatly reduce the climbing and jamming. Most of the better blade manufacturers make models specifically for this purpose, we use them on sliding miter saws also. Stay away from thin kerf blades on either saw. A good fine cutter or a combination blade on the table saw will give excellent results. Buy industrial carbide blades, Systematic, Forest, Freud, Tenryu, Amana. They don't sell them at HD, some of your local professional sharpening services may carry good blades as well as better woodworking suppliers.
Welcome to the site, Riko.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Don't know what kind of RAS you have, but most of them are underpowered.
If you have access to a TS, use it. Otherwise I'd make a template to fit the base of a good 15 amp skillsaw and use that. You can screw the temp to the bottom of the pieces and cut away.
I think also that you'd do fine with a decent straight edge guide and a circular saw. I have done things like that on site many times where that was all available to work with, or not enough power to fire up a big saw.
Remember even on a table saw or RAS, the SMALLER the blade diam. the more power at the tooth rim. I use an 8.5" blade for ripping hard to rip wood, when a 10" tends to bog down.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" Let behind the eyes, that which one talks"
Rumi....
Last month, I found a 7 1/4" freud industrial rip blade - 12t flat top, heavy plate, even has a diamond knock-out. Made in Italy.
Sticker on it had the date - 10/89.
$14.21Men come of age at sixty,
Women at fifteen.
James Stephens
Black teflon coated? I have one from about then...great blade.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" Let behind the eyes, that which one talks"
Rumi....
No teflon, really wide kerf - I'll have to measure it.Men come of age at sixty,
Women at fifteen.
James Stephens
Gentlemen,Thanks. I was thinking the same way. Table saw and full size sliding miter. I have a 12" 3horse 220 table saw. Unfortunately it's in pieces in storage. This might be the excuse I need to put it back together and back to work.We found the original oak at a craft shop. It was rough but about 11" wide. I need about 10 1/8. Just visited an architectural hardwoods in the area and they claim that they can't get anything 10 inches wide. They also want about $11.00 bf but will glue it to 10 inches for that price.The negative hook blades are a good idea. I've never used them but have heard that before. I'll look and see if I can find a 12" 50t- 56t negative.Thanks again.Riko
Can't you use the radial to nibble through the oak about 1/2" per pass, then bump the piece of oak over about 1/16" and make a final full depth pass?
If that isn't appealing then you are going to need a tablesaw sled - as others have suggested. You probably need at least 3hp, 5 would be better. And don't get all excited about the guy who told you not to get your blade and HD - Fine Wood Working did blades about a year or so ago and one of the best blades was sold at HD! It's an Oldham - I went and bought 5 of them. Certainly better than my Freud.
MERC.
What did we all do before cut off saws -- we had a simple table saw -- am surpried you'd even think of cutting something like this on a cut off saw ----- I really like the sled idea posted earlier -- good cross cut blade and a long support on the cross cut fence is all you need
I'll sell you my Oldham cheap. The paper or whatever the label that covers the entire side is made of, makes the blade run. It is not removable, but I haven't tried sandblasting yet. I should have just thrown $80 out the window. I wouldn't recommend the Freud Diablo either, at least not compared to a professional blade.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Paper on the side of the blade? That sucks. Have you tried goof off? My Oldham has no such thing. Granted I did have to have HD special order the blade, so it's not a stock item, but it wasn't all that painful.
MERC.
The blade I bought at my lumber yard, was recommended by my long time saleman. Oldham Wizard, 60T negative hook for radial and sliders. I think it is actually a screen print of some type. I've tried every solvent and 3M adhesive remover even scraping. Some of it is starting to wear away but it is basically the same design as my Freud TFLU9110 which is less than half the price but cuts twice as well. I cut some sensitive pre-finished moldings and I just can't have any wobble, running or tearing on some of those big crowns that cost $200 an 8' piece. The Freud's aren't perfect but they are as good as I am and as good as my Forest at three times the price.I'm usually open to trying new things and don't want to judge a company by one product alone. I can't just throw money away. The big difference between a pro blade and others can easily be seen on the carbide. Good blades have significantly larger tips and I think the construction and engineering show a higher level too.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Good Advice. Sled for table saw, but to save making the sled I'd probably use Dino's EZ guide for the circular saw. Measure carefully and that thing allows a very precise cut. Good luck.
You don't say which Freud blade you used. But 56 teeth is too many for lumber that thick.
I wonder if a ripping blade might work better. Less teeth, so there's more room to carry the chips out as it cuts.