Back again. Really stuck this time: looking for ways to cut an opening for an electric plug box on the kitchen backsplash that I am tiling with 12″ x 12″ x 1/2″ thick marble tiles. This hole is completely within the tile; it does not meet an edge. Relocating the plug would be a major pain (mainly due to no slack in the wires); however, I am beginning to suspect that cutting this one may equal or exceed that pain.
Options (best I can come up with)
1. Crack the tile, cut the openings in each segment as necessary and glue it back together. Thinking that I could choose a tile with a fracture line or a “weakness” that would help me out. Alternately, I considered cutting the tile with a wet saw but I would end up with a gap the width of the blade and an obvious orphan grout line. Would shimming the tile up off the saw table and scoring the back to create a weak spot where none exists help this scenario? How thick a score (one-third, half thickness or… ?)? What would be the best choice for re-gluing the two pieces – thinking two-part epoxy – other? Bottom line: I don’t want the job to look like an amateur’s (which I am if you have not already guessed) botch-up; what would the pros do?
2. Use a carbide grit hole saw at each corner and join them with a carbide grit blade. Assume all this done with water to cool & lube – and a whole lot of time – which I have. Is a jig saw or a hand saw the way to go? Slow speed, medium or… ? Fine, medium or coarse grit? To minimize chip-out should I drill/saw from the tile face or the back? My variable speed jigsaw lacks orbital action – could rent one if absolutely essential tho’.
3. Hire a pro to do the job? Is this a job that a pro would accept (one-of)?
4. Over to you readers for any other suggestions.
Thanks in advance.
Replies
We had to cut a rectangle in a 20" square "slate" (really, ceramic) floor tile for an outlet. Wet saw will work--pluge cut the outline, then cut parallel slots and then turn it 90 degrees and cut more parallel slots. Mark the outline and cut to it on the reverse side too. Then carefully break out the "comb teeth" you made--break them downward--do not pry against the edge of the tile. You'll have to clean up the corners and edges with a grout saw. Worked for us (after two tries--first time the guy I work with used a chisel to pry from the edge of the hole sideway to break the "comb teeth" and neatly crack the tile diagonally. That used up our one spare, so it was fortunate it worked the second time!
If it breaks you could try epoxy, but I think the line will show--maybe superglue gel?
A lot of tile stores will do cuts for you for a nominal charge.
You can also get a 4 1/2 grinder and a dry diamond blade and make 4 plunge cuts.
Drill holes inside the corners and link together with a 4 1/2" blade in the angle grinder. keep it damp when cutting to keep the dust down. Marble is soft and will cut easy.
Do plunge cuts from the backside of the tile. Works best with with a 4" blade but I suppose you could do it with a bigger blade as the overcuts are hidden on the backside.
Personally I usually cut two overlapping 2" holes in the tile with a water fed diamond holesaw. This works for regular outlets but not GFI outlets (the are too bulky). I experiment on a scrap of plywood with a bimetal holsaw until I get the spacing right and then use the plywood with the correct spacing as a guide for my diamond core drill/ holesaw.
You should be able to do it with the saw you are cutting the tile with if you cut from the backside. I suppose a 10" blade is going to require overcutting a LOT but it should still be possible as long as you cut on the backside.
Karl
If it's only one hole, then ask at the tile store. If more than one cut, then locate a round diamond-abrasive coping blade, drill a starter hole, then exercise your elbow (use mineral/baby oil for lubricant)
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
I do those with my 4 1/2" grinder with a diamond saw blade on it.. I cut from both sides keeping most overcuts on the back. I have done the same thing on the wetsaw by pivoting the tiles upward onto the saw blade... the grinder is easier because the water makes it hard to see and the wetsaw is 10" diameter which requires more overcuts. A carbide grit saw blade in a saber saw works too with a plunge cut on the wetsaw to start. Another way is to slot it out and widen the saw cuts that will show to the proper width for grouting... perfectly acceptable but not quite as nice.
Update:
Thanks for all the ideas!
Local stores I tried used to do cuts if you bought the tile there but no longer (includes home Depot) where I purchased this.
Went tool hunting. Finally decided to try the cheapest solution first - 2" dia carbide grit hole saw. Used water as lube. Worked great: just had to touch up corners & centre area of long-dimensioned sides. Tried with cutoff disks in a Dremel. worked ok but wore out fast. Given these tiles are marble I doubt that this is a feasible approach if you have ceramic or porcelain tiles.
I next used in the Dremel one of the carbide grit burs(tapered cylinder shape)and to my surprise it was quick and easy to use. Again, ok with marble; don't know about ceramic.
Until next time, thanks to all once again
I've seen generic angle grinders for $9.99 at Harbor Freight. They should work for at least one job.
Transfer your marks to the back, pull the table off the saw, plunge upside down on your marks. Flip the tile over, knock out the the piece with a knuckle rap and clean up the corners with your nippers. Geez, too easy....
But really...
It actually takes a bit of skill to do it that way without binding the blade and breaking the tile that way. Most tile setters do it that way though, quick and clean edges.
Make sure you leave room for the outlet screws though...
Judo Chop!
THere is a carbide dremel bit available for cutting ceramic. Had to buy one to cut around the shower arm in my tile bath. About 15 clams but does a beautiful job. Plunge through, out to mark and cut the circle. If cuts are limited and accuracy isn't crucial, works great.
Yet another option, carbide encrusted jigsaw blades, much like the round coping saw blade but electric. They easily cut ceramic tile so marble ought to be easy.