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cutting aluminum handrail

GOLDENBOY | Posted in Tools for Home Building on November 22, 2007 01:12am

How to cut aluminum handrail parts? 

Have a small job to do using Regal handrail system. 

Not sure of best way to cut parts to length.  Is there a blade I could use in a mitersaw (10″, 5/8 hole). 

I cut down an aluminum ladder recently using an old fine carbide blade, but the cut was quite rough. 

Anyone tried an abrasive blade??

Thanks for any info.

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  1. scrumseeker | Nov 22, 2007 01:19am | #1

    They do have blades specifically for the non-ferrous metals like aluminum.  Seems like a finish blade to me,  and works excellently in the chop saw on aluminum extrusions like handrails. 

    Just cut slow and steady,  hold the piece well in place,  and be sure to have the safety glasses for these cuts.

    If it is a small job a regular blade will cut fairly smooth if you take your time.  An abrasive blade might be hard to get a great cut.



    Edited 11/21/2007 5:21 pm ET by scrumseeker

  2. Piffin | Nov 22, 2007 01:26am | #2

    Pretty much any trim blade will work.

    AL is much softer than steel or carbide.

    The problem you get into with AL, esp in abrasive baldes, is that because it is soft, and the blade can get hot, you can fuse hot AL to the face of the cutting teeth, which can be cleaned off, but in effect, the blade cuts as though it is dulled.

    Best is a slow cut with a hacksaw type blade in a jigsaw or sawsall if that will make a neat enough cut.

    What I usually do is use a chopsaw blade that has small teeth, little rake angle, and is already due for sharpening

     

     

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    1. GOLDENBOY | Nov 22, 2007 08:09pm | #8

      Thanks to all.  Will use a due for sharpening finish blade with low hook angle.  Still waiting for parts and anchor bolt glue, so will not be cutting any aluminum for a while, I guess. 

      1. ravz | Nov 22, 2007 09:39pm | #9

        is there a link to the handrail system you can share? i googled but came up with something in australia?

        1. GOLDENBOY | Nov 23, 2007 09:21pm | #12

          I have a brochure from local building supply store, REGALRAILINGS.COM is the web adress. 

    2. User avater
      BillHartmann | Nov 23, 2007 02:34am | #10

      Coat the blade with pariffin or similar wax helps lubercate the cut and also reduces sticking of the al in the teeth.At least for the finer tooth bandsaw blades. I think that it would help with the carbide circular blades also..
      .
      A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

  3. rlrefalo | Nov 22, 2007 01:28am | #3

     there are specialty blades but i know a carbide wood cutting blade with a negative hook angle works well. go slow and clamp the work, go slow and clamp the work.

  4. mike_maines | Nov 22, 2007 01:32am | #4

    Ditto Piffin--I use an old 60 or 80 tooth blade, with 5° or negative hook angle.  Abrasive blades turn up huge amounts of aluminum.  Slow cut but not too slow.  Practice first to get a feel for the material and how fast to cut.

    And wear safety glasses!  Those little shards hurt.  Trust me.

    1. LTAB | Nov 22, 2007 05:07pm | #6

      It also helps to wear a long sleeve shirt. Those little sharp things really fly around and can be hot.

      1. bobtim | Nov 22, 2007 08:07pm | #7

        Used to cut lots of alum. thresholds with a chop saw. Works great , Face shield is needed as are the long sleeves. And DON'T have one of those sawdust bags on your saw. Mine smoldered for a while, glad it was in the morning and not the last cut of the day.

  5. User avater
    Sphere | Nov 22, 2007 01:38am | #5

    NEVER , ever use an abrasive blade on NON ferrous metal, it will clog the pores, produce heat, weaken the binders in the mix, and the blade can easily explode into shrapnal, same holds  true with grinding wheels in bench mounted grinders.

    That is why you see finishing done with sanding type abrasives, not solid wheels.

    A regular high tooth count chopsaw blade will do a passable job for a small job, long term, get a nonferrous blade.

    Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

    "If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"

  6. woody1777 | Nov 23, 2007 08:30am | #11

    I have one of these. It is fantastic.

     

    http://cgi.ebay.com/Clarke-Metal-Cutting-Circular-7-1-4-Saw-CT4014-NEW_W0QQitemZ110195821218QQihZ001QQcategoryZ58257QQcmdZViewItem

    Naive but refreshing !

  7. JTC1 | Nov 24, 2007 12:44am | #13

    As you already know now - fine carbide blade in a miter saw will do the job.

    I have an 80 tooth 10" blade that I use for softwood trim - after you cut enough pine / cedar with it, pitch will build up on the sides of the teeth and on the cutting edge.  The trim cuts start looking a bit ragged - like the blade was dull.

    My quicky cure is to cut a slice or two off of a 1/8" x 1-1/2" piece of Al bar stock which I carry for just that purpose. 1-1/2" dimension held against the fence. 

    The Al knocks the pitch off of the teeth and voila - the wood cuts are clean again!  Homeowners generally panic when they see me ready to cut metal!

    Jim

    Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light. 

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