Replies

1. 
   Abm | Jul 17, 2006 07:19am | #1

   If you wanted to use the tablesaw I would look for an abrasive blade to cut it... personally I would either stick it in my brake and use the cutoff to do it but if you don't have a cutoff you could just mark and score it with a razor knife or clamp a piece of lumber to it and do the same thing (to get a perfect edge).

1. 
   MG911 | Jul 17, 2006 08:36am | #2

   I'm not too fussy about the cut as it will be tucked behind the drip edge. Mike

1. 
   43Billh | Jul 17, 2006 01:23pm | #3

   yeah the table saw will work, but it's a little nasty and the chips are hot!

    Like the other guy's said, score and snap is the way to go.

                                 Or

   since you not fussy about the cut you could just use a nice big set of metal shears.

   Home cheapo or Blow's should have a decent quality set of shears ( straight cut ) for about $20. For your job the bigger the better.

   Bill 

2. 
   riverman | Jul 17, 2006 02:07pm | #4

   For a really good cut back it up with a piece of wood, a scrap of OSB or plywood works fine. This way you can use a standard blade rotating the usual way. Sometimes I'll tack a top piece onto the waste edge and rip into the uppersection (not through)this prevents the waste chips from blasting you in the face. If the piece is longer than what I have scrap I'll clamp a short board to the saw table and another one to the fence leaving about a 1/16 gap for the metal to slide between them. Wear a face shield or at least a good pair of saftey glasses.

1. 
   Notchman | Jul 17, 2006 02:53pm | #5

   Riverman has it exactly right.

   A carbide blade in a tablesaw works great with a backer and wear eye protection.

   The worst thing to use is an abrasive blade....the aluminum will fill it up and you'll get a lot of heat and burring along the cut.

1. 
   junkhound | Jul 17, 2006 04:06pm | #7

   You both got it right, would add one tidbit and that is to slow the blade speed down.

   Have cut 1" thick aluminum plate (No backer<G>) on table saw with carbide blade but slowed the speed down to under 1000 rpm.

   Have also cut whiteboard (0.0156 thick enamaled steel laminated to particle board) with regular skilsaw and used carbide blade - full eye protection and gloves a must.  

1. 
   PeteDraganic | Jul 17, 2006 05:30pm | #8

   Just another input saying that I too have cut aluminum on the table saw with the blade just the way it is for all else.

   I suggest a carbide blade, more teeth is better.

   Yes the chips can beat you up a little and they can be hot but nothing a man can't handle with no special protection other than the recommended safety glasses.

   I've cut down storm window flanges and even heavy gauge aluminum window and storm door frames with no problem.

   Just take it slow.

   The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits. -Albert Einstein

   http://www.peteforgovernor.com

1. 
   MG911 | Jul 17, 2006 05:39pm | #9

   I've got about 300 feet of this stuff to cut in a hurry that's why I was looking for a quick & safe way to do it. Thanks for the suggestions so far.Mike

2. 
   JohnSprung | Jul 17, 2006 08:45pm | #10

   I've cut 1/4" 6061-T6 aluminum on a table saw.  It's doable, but no fun at all. 

   For this large a job, it'll be worth your while to take it to someone who has a sheet metal shop, or at the very least, a Tapco brake with the rolling wheel cutter accessory.  If you have a brake but no cutter, would it be possible to just hem it over and let the extra material hide behind the fascia forever?   

    

   -- J.S.

    

3. 
   Sphere | Jul 17, 2006 02:54pm | #6

   Don't. Score and snap it. The TS blade would like to be REAL high so the cutting force in as nuch down as can be. And that is not a good way to be going with thin metal.

   Score 2 or three times with a utility knife and work the bending back and forth.

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   " I am not an Activist, I am, a Catalyst. I lay around and do nothing, until another ingredient is added"

4. 
   ccal | Jul 17, 2006 10:59pm | #11

   Most sheetmetal shops would do that for you really cheap. Otherwise I would just use a skilsaw with carbide blade running the proper direction. Back up your cut with a piece of wood under the metal. Be carefull of binding in the kerf.

5. 
   larryb | Jul 17, 2006 11:13pm | #12

   We used to cut alot.  Negative rake blade.  Triple chip.   We used a radialsaw, and pulled it through quickly.   Lube blade with wax stick. I don't see why you can't use a tablesaw.

     Larry B

6. 
   kanaka | Jul 18, 2006 01:03pm | #13

   How about using a 10" blade made for nonferrous metal? Pricey, but I bought one awhile back and mounted it on my slider to cut aluminum thresholds to size. Nothing gets hot, and it cuts through the aluminum like it was butter. Could work on a table saw. The one I've got is a Tenryu, the Alumi-Cut series. (http://www.tenryusawblades.com/)Hope this helps.
   I don't know how to do the link thing yet.

1. 
   MG911 | Jul 23, 2006 05:55am | #14

   Thanks for all the responses.  I ended up using my circ. saw (with reversed plywood blade) and a straight edge to trim all the pieces. Noisy but got the fascia job done just in time for the eavestrough guys the next morning.

   Mike