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Cutting brick wall?

PaulBinCT | Posted in Construction Techniques on March 15, 2006 07:01am

I’m looking at a job that entails cutting a doorway through an approx 12″ thick brick wall.  Engineer is spec’ing the steel header etc.  I’m wrestling with the logistics of doing it.  I’d prefer to avoid using a monster cutoff saw for sake of the overcut.  Have called around about renting a diamond chainsaw and got some intense prices, aside from the blade usage charge.  One place suggested renting a regular gass chainsaw and buying a diamond blade from them. Anyone done anything like this?  Is it a regular chainsaw?  If so, might be worth me perhaps sacrificing mine as I may be able to get a good deal on the diamond blade from a friend.  Any other suggestions or comments?  Thanks as always!

Paul B

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Replies

  1. doitall | Mar 15, 2006 07:35pm | #1

    Hey Paul,

    Is this a solid brick wall, or brick veneer on a concrete wall?  One time I had to cut an opening in a concrete wall, maybe 8" thick.  In a basement.  Couldn't use a masonry cutoff saw because of the dust.  We used a marker to draw the cut lines on the concrete, then used a rotary hammer drill with like a 5/8" x 24" bit and drilled  out a series of holes (completely through the 8" dimension) along the cut line.  Then took a sledge hammer and broke out the interior section.  Did the trick, and the casing hid any irregularities from the cut.

    You might cut through the outer layer of bricks on both sides of the wall with a diamond wheel on a large angle grinder.  Break them out, then repeat on the core.  Or, cut and then use the rotary hammer as above.

    Just an idea, but lots of dust for sure.

    dia

     

     

    1. User avater
      PaulBinCT | Mar 15, 2006 07:42pm | #3

      The presumption is that this is a solid brick wall... I just got the drawings from the engineer. Holyyyyyyyyyy smokes!!! Apparently the loads were a tad more than they initially thought. Looks like a section from the Golden Gate Bridge...

      PaulB

  2. theslateman | Mar 15, 2006 07:42pm | #2

    Maybe get a price from a co. that specializes in concrete cutting-they'll have all the rigging,and you might be surprised in the cost.

    Worth getting a quote-then you'll have some info to help you decide if it's worth your time and purchases.

  3. kostello | Mar 15, 2006 07:45pm | #4

    if it's an old wall built using a lime based mortar once you have a few of the bricks out the rest will more or less fall out with a small tap.

    is the casing going to cover the cut faces of the bricks? if not it looks much neater to make the opening wider and then rebuild the jambs to fit the door rough opening.

    1. User avater
      PaulBinCT | Mar 15, 2006 07:59pm | #5

      We're planning to case out over the cut edges.  I'm still "studying" the engineer's drawings ...yikes.

      PaulB

      1. kostello | Mar 15, 2006 08:47pm | #6

        could be worse? i'm in the middle of putting various steel beams in my house.work in progress http://www.character-building.co.ukthe big one in the middle of the house was 16' long and weighed 450lbs.it was quite a feat getting it in i had to take the front window out.the house is still standing. :o)

        1. User avater
          PaulBinCT | Mar 15, 2006 08:56pm | #7

          LOLLLL... thanks for cheering me up ;)

          1. timkline | Mar 16, 2006 12:55am | #11

             

            will the sawn bricks be left exposed  ?

            what do you mean that you are going to put casing around the opening ?

            does this mean that you are going to conceal all of the brick with a deep wood jamb with casing on it ?

            how much brick (height) is on top of the new opening  ?

            how wide is the opening ?

            how old is the brick  ?

            what is the condition of the brick ?

            personally, i prefer the look of the finished brick jamb opening which would require you to make the opening wider by knocking the bricks out by hand and then relaying the jambs.  but that's only if you want to see the brick when you are done.

             

             carpenter in transition

          2. User avater
            Ted W. | Mar 16, 2006 01:25am | #12

            I helped a buddy of mine cut a doorway into 16" of old brick. We cut the two sides first, then across the top. We also cut 4" deep notches a the top for the L-beam headers (he needed 2 headers due to the thickness) when we cut the top. I was concerned about the brick above the door falling but he assured me it would be okay. A couple of bricks fell, which we simply mortared back in when we built the brick back up around the beams. Between the 2 of us it was less than a days work which included setting the prehung door into place. Of course, this left cut edges on the brick but he planned on extending the jambs and trimming it out. I wasn't there for that part.

            We used a demolition saw with a diamond blade, 14" I believe. After we got the bulk of it cutout, with the corners a bit rough, he was able to get in with the demo saw and square them up. -----------------------------------------------------------

            FT Job Wanted: Chicago, north side/North Shore burbs. http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=70809.1

  4. chile_head | Mar 15, 2006 11:08pm | #8

    I hate to ask an ignorant question here, but how do you get the header in place before you cut out the opening, or support the opening until you get the header into place?

     

    Also, could you cut it short/small with a concrete saw, and then come back with an angle grider to square up the corners?

    1. User avater
      PaulBinCT | Mar 15, 2006 11:48pm | #10

      Perfectly reasonable question chile...

      You can shore up the wall before hand, or in this case, I'd be cutting pockets on each side of the wall to install the channels before removing the area below.

      Paul B

      1. HandySteve | Mar 16, 2006 02:56am | #14

        http://www.midwestmobilewaterjet.com

         

        I could be there by the end of the week.

        1. User avater
          PaulBinCT | Mar 16, 2006 10:23pm | #15

          Thanks for the offer Steve, but this is inside a finished retail store so I'm thinking the water jet might be a tad messier than we want ;)

          Paul B

          1. HandySteve | Mar 17, 2006 06:31am | #16

            i know   :)

  5. jayzog | Mar 15, 2006 11:37pm | #9

    I have An ICS diamond chainsaw.

    The saw is a medium duty regular chainsaw with plumbing to direct water thru the bar onto the chain.

    Retrofiting a regular saw to actually get enough water into the cut so you don't instantly burn up the blade, I think wouldn't be all that simple. 

    Brick is generally pretty soft so a chain shouldn't wear to badly, but you still can't ever put to much water on it.

    I paid about $1300 for mine new about 2 years ago, it only took a couple of jobs to recoup that compaired to renting.

    1. ponytl | Mar 16, 2006 02:06am | #13

      the ICS saw ill pay for itself in one job... but like was said it feeds the water thru the bar... the chain has o-rings around each pin... i'm on my 4th $600 chain/bar set  think i paid $1800 for my saw... but  whats really cool is you can plunge cut... need a 4" sq hole in a 16" thick wall... no prob... I've used mine to cut 5" L's in the wall for angle iron balcony supports... 

      very cool tool... you will get soaked & dirty  with each use...  they tell you not to  but i precut as much as i can with a 15" diamond round blade on a demo saw first.. i just make 2 cuts so the side won't wear on the diamond chain blade... extends the life of my chain alot... 

      p

       

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