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cutting casing

slykarma | Posted in Construction Techniques on November 1, 2004 03:57am

Looked at a job yesterday, replacing nasty old vinyl-coated faux woodgrain door and window casings with FJ pine. Baseboards were replaced with FJ less than a year ago and appear to be done fairly well: coped inside corners, well fitted mitres etc. The new casing will be wider than the old, so the base needs to be cut back. The odd time I’ve done this in the past it has been pretty tedious. Anyone know a trick for making this faster and cleaner?

Wally

Lignum est bonum.
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Replies

  1. mikeys | Nov 01, 2004 04:12pm | #1

    Fein Multimaster http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=49457.6

    Smile. It could be worse. You could be me working for you.

  2. User avater
    NickNukeEm | Nov 01, 2004 04:57pm | #2

    I second that emotion.  I use the Fein for this applications often, with great results.  Try to use a block of wood as a fence to get as striaght a cut as possible.

    I never met a tool I didn't like!
  3. User avater
    IMERC | Nov 01, 2004 05:35pm | #3

    One of those Japanense flush cut trim saws....

    Make up a gauge block / cutting guide...

    cake and pie...

    Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

    WOW!!!   What a Ride!

    1. slykarma | Nov 02, 2004 02:30am | #8

      I have a flush cut Japanese style saw but that was the method I found so tedious. I'm looking at 12 doors to cut in, 24 cuts at least. If I can do it in 5 minutes each, that's 2 hours to add to the estimate. Hmm, better add 3 to be sure...

      Thanks,

      WallyLignum est bonum.

  4. User avater
    jagwah | Nov 01, 2004 05:58pm | #4

    I use my Zip tool and a guide block till you get good at it. I free hand all the time with this tool, but I get a lot of practice.

    Otherwise I'd use a flush trim handsaw.

     

    1. slykarma | Nov 02, 2004 02:39am | #9

      Explain further re zip tool. What blade or bit do you use? Are you cutting with the bit parallel to the floor or parallel to the wall? I don't own either a Multimaster or a Roto-zip, I do own a Dremel rotary tool.

      Thanks,

      Wally

      Lignum est bonum.

      1. Shep | Nov 02, 2004 04:45am | #10

         One guy I know uses a Dremel, or something like it, to make the cuts you're talking about.

          He holds the tool parallel to the floor, perpendicular to the wall. I'm not sure what kind of bit he's using.

          That said, I can do it faster and more accurately with my Multimaster. It'd be worth buying just for this job, and you'll be using it regularly afterwards.

      2. User avater
        jagwah | Nov 02, 2004 04:50am | #11

        I'll sometimes score a line with my utility knife first .I use a 1/8" wood cutting bit,zbsc5. Plunge into the base and rotate downward towards the floor. Don't force it mild controlled pressure. By placing the base of the roto zip on the floor and striking a steady arc down I can cut a pretty clean line. Near the bottom of the cut I'll lift the base up and continue downward as I push inward slightly to finish the cut. I'll turn off the tool holding steady till it stops before removing.

        I used a 1/4" straight router bit years ago in my Bosch laminate trimmer.

         

        Edited 11/1/2004 11:36 pm ET by JAGWAH

        1. User avater
          IMERC | Nov 02, 2004 05:15am | #12

           used a 1'4" straight router bit

          you serious????

          Were can I find one....

          Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

          WOW!!!   What a Ride!

          1. User avater
            jagwah | Nov 02, 2004 06:35am | #14

            Bad finger, bad finger!

            How about 1/4" straight router bit 

          2. User avater
            IMERC | Nov 02, 2004 06:39am | #15

            damn and I thought you were gonna turn me on to mother of all Bosch Routers...

            Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

            WOW!!!   What a Ride!

          3. User avater
            jagwah | Nov 02, 2004 07:01am | #16

            That would be the mother of all for sure. Imagine that getting away from you.

             I had a 3hp porter cable plunge router with a 1/2" shank 3" long upsprial come out of a doors mortise I was freehanding,(Ya that's right 3" upspiral). As the door slipped I yanked the router free so I didn't rip through the side of the $1200 door. I found myself wrestling that door with one hand and the router with the other. Partner grabbed the door and I reached over and grabbed the base of the router and turned it off, as it did it's last revolution or two I stuck my thumb into the bit. I got a small cut as it stopped turning. And all this in about 7 seconds!

            We quit for the day,I got a bandaid and my partner and I went and got a few beers.  

          4. User avater
            IMERC | Nov 02, 2004 07:03am | #17

            One of the guys on a project I was working on managed to run winged cutter across his stomach...

            what a mess...

            Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

            WOW!!!   What a Ride!

          5. User avater
            jagwah | Nov 02, 2004 07:12am | #20

            Remember the trigger in the handle of the old Sears routers? I saw a carpenter pull the Craftsmen against his stomach to adjust the depth of a core box bit then squeeze the trigger accidently. Damn thing gave him a new navel. 

          6. Shep | Nov 03, 2004 01:59am | #21

              I did something similar years ago with an old Black & Decker router.

              I was holding the router between my arm and body, cleaning  some laminate cement off the bit, when I bumped the switch.

              I took a chunk off my thumb, but I also learned to unplug tools when I'm doing stuff to them.

  5. User avater
    BossHog | Nov 01, 2004 08:44pm | #5

    "...nasty old vinyl-coated faux woodgrain door..."

    I installed a door like that last weekend. I told my Son it was "Genuine imitation wood".

    For some reason, I don't think he believed me...

    (-:

    Of the four wars in my lifetime, none came about because the U.S. was too strong. - [Ronald Reagan]

  6. blue_eyed_devil | Nov 02, 2004 01:08am | #6

    Could you house out the backside of the casing to receive the base? I've done it...I cant remember which tool I used...

    blue

    Warning! Be cautious when taking any advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, some of it is viewed as boogerin and not consistent with views of those who prefer to overbuild everything...including their own egos

    Additionally, don't take any political advice from me. I'm just a parrot for the Republican talking points. I get all my news from Rush Limbaugh and Fox and Friends (they are funny...try them out)!

  7. Shep | Nov 02, 2004 02:26am | #7

      Another vote for the Multimaster.

      10-15 seconds with an E-blade will make the cut you want.

  8. robzan | Nov 02, 2004 06:30am | #13

    hey sly,

    Ask Blue to borrow his circ. saw.

    1. slykarma | Nov 02, 2004 07:04am | #18

      sidewinder or worm drive?Lignum est bonum.

      1. robzan | Nov 02, 2004 07:11am | #19

        I had just seen the pic. of Blue's saw and thought that it was funny.. if you are steady, and good at eyballin, you could cut the base real fast with Blue's guardless, table impared sidewinder saw!! 

        Edited 11/2/2004 12:51 am ET by robzan

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