What kind of blade is best for making clean cuts in aborite counter tops?
Using jig saw I guess. Do they have a specific blade for that?
What kind of blade is best for making clean cuts in aborite counter tops?
Using jig saw I guess. Do they have a specific blade for that?
In older homes like these, the main remodeling goal is often a more welcoming, more social, and more functional kitchen.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial NowDig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.
Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.
Start Your Free TrialStart your subscription today and save up to 70%
SubscribeGet complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.
Already a member? Log in
We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.
Replies
I didn't know what Aborite was until I Googled it. A laminate, apparently. Always use a down cutting blade when cutting from above would be the apparent answer, but you didn't really provide much information.
I've got to cut from above. It's an extension that sticks out about 4" from the wall and runs across the wall sever inches. Sorry bad description. It's kinda like the "horn" on a window sill, that might need to get cut.
I have to cut it because it's in the way of a wall that needs to get framed in there. For some reason the counter was made with this horn. The cabinet will just make it, and end up being flush with the new wall.
Skill saw won't get in very far before hitting the wall, even the jig saw will come up short. I do have a Bosch Flush cutting saw. Not sure how the blade will fair though. View Image View Image
Clamp a block on either side of the cut line, leaving room for a fine-tooth hand saw.
Use a push saw, cut down, pull saw, cut from bottom.
There are two kinds of people who never amount to much:those who cannot do what they are told, and those who can do nothing else.
another good idea! View Image View Image
Grab a carbide bladed scoring knife. They are sold at the tools sections for cutting tile backer board. Use a straight edge and you can make repeated cuts right through the formica. Score /cut just a bit longer than you want it to finish out at .
Hand saw through the counter material (as described above).
Finish the edge with sandpaper on a block of wood or a file. I use a wooden block as my straight edge and clamp it down to the piece I want saved. Keeps me from slipping and scratching the surface.
Edited 4/18/2008 2:15 am by dovetail97128
Yes! another great idea....thanks! View Image View Image
I usually cut lamninate tops with a router and a new straight bit, with a clamped on straight edge. Never had a problem.
Kimball
In this case the router base plate will hit the wall before the bit even hits the counter. View Image View Image
"In this case the router base plate will hit the wall before the bit even hits the counter."How about an offset base on a trim router? Will get you about 3/4" from the wall. +1 on the MM.
yeah....that would be alright. I'd still have to finish the cut using one of the other methods though. I'd also have to get my hands on one as well. View Image View Image
You haven't scored and cut that thing yet? sheese man get to it! ;-)
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
was sposed to do it Friday, but things happened - going there on Tuesday now. By then I'll have so many options I won't know what to do :) View Image View Image
Sorry, you'll have to listen to one more option.I've always used my power saw, the one that has been field corrected, with a new carbide blade. I can make clean cuts as close as 5/8" to the backsplash. If you are really scared of chip out; reverse the blade and score the surface first. Then, make the deeper cut taking care to keep the edge of the blade from touching the laminate material.The final few inches of the cut that is perpindicular to the backsplash is a challenge. I have my methods though... Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
more than one way to skin a cat.
Never hurts to hear another way. Thanks for your tip. How do you get your saw so close though. View Image View Image
There are two ways.
The unsafe way would be to use a hacksaw and cut off the extended baseplate.
The safe way is to find an old PorterCable or Rockwell that was made in the 60's or 70's that didn't have those extended baseplates.
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Crain toe kick saw.
Gotta love it.You need to buy $265 worth of new tools, a special blade for $80 more and spend 36 minutes on the setup for the cut.Talk about being led around by the power tools.
is there a Master Card commercial in there somewhere?
lol View Image View Image
If you have a few inches to cut off you have room to experiment. Go for it!
Yea I already considered that, and was planning a test cut 1st. View Image View Image
Score the cut line with the corner of a sharp chisel before you cut and cut just a hair proud of the line. Clean up the edge with a file.
good call. I've been needing to sharpen up my chisels anyway! View Image View Image
The bosch saw should do just fine with the fine toothed blade. They do make a nonferrous metals blade, (FS200ABF) that might work better, but I'm not sure it would work enough better to justify buying one just for the project. The only difference between it and the standard blade is that the teeth are hardened, it has the same geometry.
I make straight cuts with a Freud Diablo blade in my sidewinder, really cuts great. Some people like to flip the counter upside down and cut from the backside too.
Man I dread making a mess of things. I cant get my skill saw in there, and I cant flip anything upside down.
*see response to BARMIL View Image View Image
I second the good old hand saw.
I use a circ saw to cut the laminent counter, and a down-cutting blade in a jig saw for the sink cutout. The biggest issue with the down-cutting blade is the tendency for the jigsaw to bounce, so you have to make sure and apply enough pressure to keep the saw sole on the countertop.
"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
I wish it was only a sink cut out. the cut line will be fully visible. A new wall will butt up against the cut, so I don't have ot worry about the end, but if the cut isn't nice - I'm hooped. View Image View Image
Sounds like a job for the multimaster with some kind of a straight fence rigged to guide the cut.
yeah I did think about that. Don't have one - yet. View Image View Image
the guy I apprenticed with always had a habit of waiting till the customer was right beside him,, then smacking a hole in the middle of the sink with a hammer,, gotta start the cut somewhere!
Man did you see the white faces!
Chainsaws are quick.
They are - I did mention however the need for it to look nice ;) View Image View Image
If you are going to use a jig saw. Skip the reverse tooth blade unless you practice with it to get used to pushing down HARD to keep it from jumping and causing bigger problems. I used one for about 3" of cut and threw the package of blades away. A better blade to use is the Bosch 101-B jig saw blade in a GOOD jigsaw. I use the Bosch 1587 with the 101-B blade to make my cuts from the top or bottom. Good Luck
They make a down cut blade for jigsaws. Thats what I use.
what's the reason we can't pop the CT loose and slide it out a bit to make the cuts?
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
that would be to easy.
View Image View Image
Made the cut. "Bosch fine cut" did the job very nicely. the cut was made in the time I would had the caulking from back splash all scored and then redone once it went back in.
View Image View Image
I knew that. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
yea I know ...and since you kept "your methods" to yourself on how to finish the cut, I had to just go with it.
I did clamp a block to the one side, then scored the top cutting on the flat, then worked the saw into the cut. finished it off with a light sanding with a ROS.
View Image View Image
If you are willing to cut the table off you saw, I'll share the method. There's no sense wasting all the bytes if you're too scared to work with a proper saw LOL! Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
You know, the more I think about it, the more that makes total and absolute sense. I don't use my circ saw all that often, but when I do, I never set it down with the blade spinning. I'm always hyper-aware of that thing.Although, if saws came that way, they would require electric brakes. I know you don't like electric brakes, but it wouldn't matter to me. And, to be honest, I think I'd need a saw with an electric brake before I hacked it at.Probably.Maybe.Maybe not. . .
Biff, think about it this way. You have your nice safe saw right? How many times do you let the table of your saw touch ANYTHING when the blade is spinning? Okay, now that we both agree that you don't let your saw touch anything with the blade spinning; how many times has your saw accidently bumped against your when it was spinning? I know the answer to both my questions: NONE! NOT ONCE IN THIRTY YEARS! Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
I might just have to take the plunge!
one of the best things in my carp career was working with my buddy Joe.
Joe's theory on most stuff ... just do it.
gotta find out sooner or later.
he'd stop and think of the best way ... but most always used what ever tools were close at hand. He wasn't big on spending more money for a one time limited use tool.
Joe's still by far the best carp I've ever worked with.
and he definitely got stuff done.
I was definitely more the "thinker and rethinker" till I worked with him.
paralyze myself with too many options.
now ... I step back and think ... what would Joe do?
he's good at not overcomplicating life.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
I like the "just do it" approach as well....not so fond of the "DOH" that sometimes follows.
But yeah...often work with what ya got and a good carp will find a way. There are times when it just makes sense to have the right tool.
View Image View Image
I did a lot of kitchens and I always turned the top over and cut them with a jigsaw. I had some patterns for some sinks made from 1/2" plywood and I cut them with a router. I took about 4 passes and you have to support the area where you are cutting so when the cutout was made it wouldn't tear loose and make a scar.
To cut a top to length turn it over and cut it with a 40 tooth carbide blade. You won't be able to cut through the backsplash. So I finished cutting with a jigsaw. I cut with the jigsaw a bit long and belt sanded it to lenght on the backsplash.
1. Cut slowly w/ the circ saw as far as you can get....stay about 1/16" from finish line.
2. Finish cut towards wall and through backsplash w/ a "Japanese style" pull saw, working from below.
3. Grind to finish line w/ a small belt sander held vertically to sand downwards.
4. Finish w/ a ramdom orbital sander.
At least that's what I've done......
Funny.....every task seems to need at least $500 worth of tools these days.
yeah funny how back in the old days they did everything with a hammer and sharp chisel, along with a few clever planes. View Image View Image
The even funnier thing is that the "hammer, sharp chisel, and a few clever planes"
are gonna set you back close to $500.
See what I mean.........