Any hints on cutting d profile drip cap so as to make a nice 90 degree corner? I have been mangling it with tin snips and a nibbler.
Also, what kind of flashing is best for hip rafter ridges, that is to say, underneath cedar shingles that make up the ridge cap?
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Replies
There's no way to describe in words how to cut the ends of extended drip edge; you need to see a photo or drawing. There's a decent drawing in FHB issue #107 by Scott McBride. There's a photo in my book Roofing With Asphalt Shingles by Taunton Press. Stop in a bookstore and take a peek at the photo rather than buying the book for that one reference.
What I do for hips is first install regular underlayment over the roof planes, then run an 18" strip of Waterproof shingle underlayment (WSU) (Grace ice and water shield is the best but any will work). Just cut 18" pieces out of the 36" roll.
Then if you really want to make the hips really water resistant, shingle the roof planes and cut the shingles back about 2" from the hip line on both sides. Run a 9" to 10" strip of WSU over the 4" space. Then cap regularly.
Mike Guertin
My method is to cut thru the horizontal surface ( the nailing flange and the doubled up extension) from either side and then bend the verticle face around the corner. Grabbing one side with tongs when you do this provides a clean bend.
Thanks, that sounds good. I think my tin snips are just too dull and too big. The Grace underlayment looks like a great sensible product. I will give it a try.