Replies

1. 
   Sphere | Jan 13, 2008 07:44pm | #1

   Diamond blade ina circsaw or handheld grinder..keep it cool by drizzling water on the wheel.

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"

1. 
   EricPaulson | Jan 14, 2008 02:09am | #6

   = mudpies.[email protected]

    

    

    

    

1. 
   Sphere | Jan 14, 2008 02:15am | #7

   Fun for the kiddies to play in.

   I saw a dam of clay being used, or putty, but now I recall, the guy was drilling a soap bottle hole or something.

   I guess dry cut is the way to go.

   I made a few pizza stones outta sink cut outs,I went the wet route, to keep the diamond blade from dishing..but what do I know?Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"

1. 
   EricPaulson | Jan 14, 2008 02:20am | #8

    to keep the diamond blade from dishing

   What is that Duanne? Distortion from overheating?

   Our CT guys use the 6" dry/light pressure and Jose chases the wheel with the vacuum.

   Still makes a mess.[email protected]

    

    

    

    

1. 
   Sphere | Jan 14, 2008 02:26am | #9

   I was using a 7 1/4" in a saw, and pushing too fast/hard. Got a noticeable wobble.  I was clipping off corners to make the cutouts round..took forever, so I gave up and left the next few rectangular.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"

2. 
   Atlanta86 | Jan 14, 2008 03:07am | #10

   Thanks for the good advice.  Sounds like a bigger job than I figured.  First step will be to price a pro.

3. 
   IdahoDon | Jan 15, 2008 01:34am | #17

   It's really simple.  tape along tape line or use a sharpie to guide the cut.  Use a 3-1/2 or 4" grinder and dimond blade.  Simply cut it out while using shop vac to catch dust.  Use eye and lung protection.

   Ideal for the job is a variable speed grinder and 6" to 7" blade.  I have a variable speed makita that turns a diamond circ saw blade and is the cat's meow.

   Cheers

     

   Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.

4. 
   popawheelie | Jan 15, 2008 07:30am | #23

   I've distorded blades by overheating them. Amazing how they go right back to good as new.

2. 
   junkhound | Jan 15, 2008 03:51am | #20

   ..keep it cool by drizzling water on the wheel.

   Ya know, you told OP  the best way in the 2nd post, yet the OP still gets all this #### about heating the blade and dust.  Last granite counter (and concrete) use a 7-1/ balde in old cheap skilsaw, lots of old towels and rags unger the sink area, garden hose with continuous slow dribble right on the edge of the cut (tie wrap the hose to the saw) -- zero dust, zero blade overheat, minimal mess.

   For the safety concious, a double insulated saw is best, I've used Al body saws with no gloves and no  problem, but conceivably could trip a very sensitive GFI.

   With a 2nd person you can wet vac near everything away.

1. 
   Sphere | Jan 15, 2008 04:54am | #22

   Yeah, funny how that works. I did it and I know what worked for me, but everyone has a pet method, so whatever gets it done is what seems the most common. I saw no need to push anything.

   I can't hardly remember my last non-double insulated saw, but I'm not an old codger like you (G).

   I've often wetsanded with a PC Random orbit sander, before I could afford air tools and a big enough compressor.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"

2. 
   MattSwanger | Jan 13, 2008 07:46pm | #2

   The granite fabricators that are on my job right now use 6" grinders for site cuts. 

   They tape off the cut to help prevent chip out,  then make the cut dry----outside. 

   Don't you need to make two cuts?  To keep the top centered in anything?  Like cut 3" off each side? 

   You'd have to remove the top and do it outside or have a good shop  vac running while you do it in place. 

    

   Woods favorite carpenter

    

3. 
   CAGIV | Jan 13, 2008 08:24pm | #3

   I take it the Island countertop is securely fastened to the cabinetry since this is a remodel?

   The option of removing the top isn't a good one if the top is already "glued" down.  You will have a fair probability of breaking the top if you attempt to remove it to take it outside. 

   You will create one hell of a dust-storm cutting it in place.  Build a tent from ceiling to floor around the cooktop using plastic and something to create a quick temp wall.  Zip-walls or 3rd hands work well, if you do not have any, 1x2's tension fit will do just as well.

   If you have a 5" or larger angle grinder it is the appropriate tool to use.  Position the grinder so that most of the dust is shooting into the cut (into the cabinets) if possible.  Easier to clean the inside of the cabinets then the rest of the house in my opinion.  Mark out your cut with tape so you can see the line.  Make a shallow cut first.  With a good diamond wheel you should not have tear out that won't be covered, the tape isn't going to do much or anything to prevent tear out.  I've never actually seen tear out like you would think of it in terms of wood anyway.

   Wear a dust mask and glasses.  A second person is recommended in order to hold a shop-vac in back of the cut to catch as much as the dust as possible.  Make sure the cabinetry is completely cleared out.

   Once you have the shallow cut you can "feel" it as you cut but keep a careful eye on it because the dust will block any line you lay down, that's why I suggest using the tape to mark the outsides.

   It's not a terribly difficult task just take your time.

   I would strongly recommend against using a circ saw, for one, the base could possibly scratch the surface of the granite and secondly you will not be able to get into the corners. 

   I would also recommend using a core bit to relieve the corners (1-3/8 or so) and cut to them, you can use the grinder to clean the corners up once the bulk is out of the way.  If you do not have one call a local granite fabricator and see if they can lend or sell you one.  They will spin onto a standard grinder. 

   If any of the cuts need to be polished your best of sub-ing out the whole procedure to someone equipped to do it.  By cooktop I'm assuming all the rough edges will be covered and this is not a free standing range?

   Clear as mud?

    

   

4. 
   alwaysoverbudget | Jan 14, 2008 01:00am | #4

   i've done some cutting with a circular saw and diamond blade.you probably  can be a litle rough here as the  range top will cover. but lots of dust.

   if i was to do this today,in a house thats occupied i would look at buying one of those little hand held wet saws for 70. and try and keep the dust down.

   what kind of granite is it? my experence is some is a whole lot harder and denser than others,black is the hardest that i have done,it was tough. larry

   if a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?

5. 
   EricPaulson | Jan 14, 2008 02:08am | #5

   For the value of replacing that top to an oops, I would strongly suggest you consider having a fabricator at least give you a ball park idea of how much $ to do what you need.

   Eric

   [email protected]

    

    

    

    

6. 
   wallyo | Jan 14, 2008 08:56am | #11

   As already mentioned a 70.00 wet circular saw will work. You do not need to flood it with water just enough to keep the blade wet. Make two or three passes increasing depth each time. Clamp a guide board across the counter to rest the saw plate against. Some how support the 3" OR 6" piece from below so it does not crack from weight. You may need to finish up the corner with an angle grinder. But does the new stove butt up to the counter or overlap it. If it overlaps you have some slop if not and accuracy is important and it is not your house I would call a pro.

   WallyO

1. 
   EricPaulson | Jan 14, 2008 01:59pm | #12

   I'm doing a kitchen remodel and replacing a 30" island cooktop with a 36" model. [email protected]

    

    

    

    

1. 
   wallyo | Jan 14, 2008 07:25pm | #13

   Eric Your point is what?Yes, he is doing a kitchen remodel, got that, does not say his house or a clients. If it is my own I would go for it.If it is a clients I may observe some caution. Is the new top a drop, in a slide in, he does not say. Reguardless if there is some lip that over laps the counter there is more fudge factor verses a side in top that butts up to the counter and reruires a very accurate cut (FOR A SLIDE IN, IF NOT MY HOUSE I WOULD PUT THE LIABILITY ON TO A COUNTER PRO AND SUB OUT THE JOB.)He also is going to either cut about 6 Inches off one side or about 3 inches on the left and 3 inches on the right. 30+6=36 as does 30+3+3=36.Your point is?Wallyo

   Edited 1/14/2008 11:27 am ET by wallyo

1. 
   EricPaulson | Jan 15, 2008 12:53am | #16

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   99440.12 in reply to 99440.1 

   As already mentioned a 70.00 wet circular saw will work. You do not need to flood it with water just enough to keep the blade wet. Make two or three passes increasing depth each time. Clamp a guide board across the counter to rest the saw plate against. Some how support the 3" OR 6" piece from below so it does not crack from weight. You may need to finish up the corner with an angle grinder. But does the new stove butt up to the counter or overlap it. If it overlaps you have some slop if not and accuracy is important and it is not your house I would call a pro.

   WallyO

    

    

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   My point to you was that he is NOT putting in a stove as you put it, or more correctly reffered to as a slide in range.

   The op clearly states COOKTOP!

   That's all.[email protected]

    

    

    

    

1. 
   wallyo | Jan 15, 2008 02:03am | #18

   I am aware that it is a cook top, they come in both drop in or slide in now a-days. Some may over lap the counter some may abut the counter, he does not say what type or brand he has just that it is a cooktop. I was try to cover both installs. I am talking a pro style similar to a jennaire JGCP636ADP that might not overlap the counter.I said in my posting stove as a generic reference I did not say range.

   Edited 1/14/2008 6:07 pm ET by wallyo

2. 
   popawheelie | Jan 15, 2008 02:32am | #19

   Exactly. I worked for a guy that was not happy unless he was covered with dust. It just felt like he was working harder when he was dirty.

   I use a hose with a spray nozzle that you can turn down to a small spray. If the water starts to build up and go where you don't want it to have an assistant there with a wet vac. I cut all sort of stuff with diamond blades and use water. I learned it from Mexicans in L.A. I saw them melt the handle on a skil 77 from pushing it to hard and long. They had a target saw but sometimes the skil saw worked better. They cut concrete in hospital basements floors for a year with the 77 before it died. That's one tuff saw. 

   You could limit the depth of your cut so the water wouldn't come out the bottom. If the counter is 1" just cut 7/8" and the water won't come out the bottom. Then just snap the 1/8" off or do a light pass.

   Edited 1/14/2008 11:39 pm ET by popawheelie

1. 
   wallyo | Jan 15, 2008 04:08am | #21

   Thanks to both of you (poppawheelie and junkhound) for not tearing me a new one for forgetting to mention a second person on hand with a shop vac, while cutting for this stove err I mean cooktop.wallyo

   Edited 1/14/2008 8:09 pm ET by wallyo

7. 
   Mongo | Jan 14, 2008 07:35pm | #14

   Everyone else has covered the cut, here's another tip.

   If you have drawer slides in the cabinet, consider pulling all the drawers and completely taping over the slides to prevent granite dust from fouling the slide mechanism.

   If you have Blums, I'd even consider removing them completely.

   Mongo

8. 
   peteshlagor | Jan 14, 2008 07:39pm | #15

   Wallyo touchs upon a point that really needs to be emphasized.

   That 2 or 3" strand of stone that is in front of drop-in cooktops is a train wreck waiting to happen.  The pros cut in a 1/4 to 3/8" channel(s) along that length extending into the field.  They epoxy a SS rod in this channel(s) to strengthen and prevent that piece of stone from being broke out.  The depth, size, and length of that channel is where the skill is involved.

   Find another stone somewhere else to play with.  Maybe your fireplace?  Or steps.  But leave this one to the pros.

    

9. 
   Billy | Jan 15, 2008 07:56am | #24

   Alpha makes those little wetsaw circular saws:

   http://www.alpha-tools.com/Product.aspx?PageCode=140

   http://www.tiletools.com/alpha-circular-saw125.html

   http://www.granitecitytool.com/showitem.cfm?itemnum=259

   I've seen knockoffs on e-bay.

   Here's a video:
   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NTnbAlP_dOc&feature=related

   Billy

1. 
   alwaysoverbudget | Jan 15, 2008 05:28pm | #25

   did you notice in that video that he pulled the saw backwards? i'd like to know how come,might be some secret i've never heard.  also that looks like 2cm granite not 3cm. larryif a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?

1. 
   wallyo | Jan 15, 2008 06:10pm | #26

   I was wonder about that too in the video? There is another thread running on cutting culture marble Boats234 says over there that the marble shop tells him to pull the saw backwards. This is the first I've heard that but we are all here to learn so is it the fact that since a diamond blade has no teeth it does not matter and doing so has less chance of the saw jumping or gives a smoother cut?Wallyo

1. 
   Billy | Jan 15, 2008 06:37pm | #27

   My guess is a smoother cut because of the blade rotation, if you are cutting from the top.

   Billy