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Cutting Granite Counter in place

alecs | Posted in Construction Techniques on June 27, 2005 04:49am

Hi,
I have a granite counter top that overhangs the base cabinets by about 3″ into the space where the fridge goes. I bought a new fridge, which is about 1/4″ too wide to fit into the opening because of the overhanging granite. I’d like to cut about 1″ of the granite off in place. The resulting edge does not need to be polished because it will be hidden by the fridge.

Any suggestions on tools, techniques, and feasibility of making this cut? I was thinking angle grinder with a diamond wheel against a clamped on fence, which would get almost everything except the corner of the countertop and the backsplash. Might have to freehand the corner somehow.

Any ideas on this would be appreciated.

Thanks

Alec

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Replies

  1. davidmeiland | Jun 27, 2005 04:57pm | #1

    You've got the right idea, except add a helper with a vacuum cleaner hose and dust masks for both of you.

    1. User avater
      alecs | Jun 27, 2005 05:06pm | #2

      David,
      Thanks for the quick reply. Can I spray a water mist on the cut to cool the blade and keep down the dust?alec

      1. FastEddie1 | Jun 27, 2005 06:18pm | #3

        You're on the right track.  In addition to the helper, hang plastic from the ceiling to mmake an enclosure.

        You can spray water with either a bottle sprayer (think windex) or a pump up sprayer.  If you buy a wet-only blade, then you have no choice.  It will keep the dust down, but will make a mess on the floor.  The shop vac won't catch all the water or dust.

         I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

        1. davidmeiland | Jun 27, 2005 07:12pm | #4

          I have a dry-cutting diamond blade on my angle grinder that I use for notching tile, cutting into stucco. Never used water on it, mostly for fear of getting the tool wet and getting lit up. Does the blade cut as well if wet? 3/4" granite is going to be a real project. I would be tempted to score the top and bottom and see if it will snap.... if I could test it on a scrap first.

          1. FastEddie1 | Jun 27, 2005 09:32pm | #5

            My Dewalt grinder is double in sulated, and only has a two prong plug.  I plug it into a gfi circuit and start cutting.

             I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

          2. davidmeiland | Jun 27, 2005 10:11pm | #6

            The water does not change the cutting characteristics of the blade? I never tried it. My blade has some definite 'grit' on it, my wet saw blades do not. Gotta admit I dunno the difference.

  2. WorkshopJon | Jun 27, 2005 10:18pm | #7

    Alec,

    I've done the same.  Just use an angle grinder with a DRY diamond blade.  Don't use water.  Mark the cut line with masking tape.  Cut deeper and deeper in many light passes free hand.  Have a helper follow nearby with a shop-vac. 

    Stay about 1/32' away from the tape, and touch up the edge after it's cut.

    WSJafter.

    1. FastEddie1 | Jun 28, 2005 03:02am | #8

      Different strokes ... etc.  Why do you say to cut dry?

       I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

      1. WorkshopJon | Jun 28, 2005 05:06am | #9

        Why do you say to cut dry?"

        Less mess Ed.

        Jon

        1. ponytl | Jun 28, 2005 06:17am | #10

          i just scored maybe thousands of feet of stained concrete floor only about 1/8 to 3/16 deep ( now looks like tile) i tried wet and dry I would have thought wet would have been better... but dry worked better and less mess .. no difference in life of the blade that i could tell... i was in an open space so a strong fan keep'n the dust away and my lines in sight helped... but a vac on a short cut has to help some... i used a 4" cir saw... worked better than my big saws

          pony

  3. Bruce | Jun 29, 2005 02:31am | #11

    Your dry blade will do just fine.  I cut out the 22x36 cooktop opening in our 2 cm (3/4") slab granite island top with one, no problem.  For the cost of the blade, if you burn it up, which you probably won't, no big deal. 

    Every granite fabricator I have worked around uses the same tool.  Be certain to have the third hand handy with the shop vac hose during the whole process.

    The High Desert Group LLC

     

    1. User avater
      alecs | Jul 01, 2005 04:49pm | #12

      I was out purchasing the diamond wheels yesterday - there were two choices - a $30 DeWalt continuous diamond rim wheel, and a $10 Husky wheel with alternating slots on either side of the rim of the wheel. Probably 100 slots in all, although I didn't count. Any thoughts on which will work better? I was thinking I would try the cheap one first and return the expensive one if I didn't end up using it, but if the general opinion is that the cheap one won't work, then I'll go the other way!Other than that, I'm all set for the grand experiment - two shop vacs, extra hands at the ready, a box fan with an air filter, plastic sheeting, and as long as I can find my trusty angle grinder (I just moved, you know), we will be all set!

      1. User avater
        Soultrain | Jul 01, 2005 07:27pm | #13

        I'd make sure there is no flammable material inside the shopvac before you start incase you vacuum up some sparks.  (I'd dump everything out & start empty just to be safe).

      2. Don | Jul 01, 2005 07:42pm | #14

        Alec: A few random thoughts. Don't even THINK about the cheap blade. If something doesn't work out right, you will see it forever! The only difference is about $20. Not worth saving if it screws up a multi thousand $$$ granite slab.Don't even think of scoring & snapping. Too risky for an expensive top, and it will not probably snap in a straight line, anyway.Get a real half face mask w/ NIOSH 95 or 100 rated cartridges. The dust you create can give you silicosis, and it is ALWAYS fatal & a miserable way to die. You will be right in the middle of the cloud, and NO shop vac can get all the fines that are most dangerous; the most dangerous fines you cannot even see, but, trust me, they are there. A decent one costs about $35 at Home DePot. Grainger also has them.I thought standard countertops were 30 mm - a bit more than an inch; about 1 1/4 inches. Much tougher nut to crack than 3/4 inch.Water vs dry. At least dry lets you see what you are doing. Wet makes a muddy slurry that masks your view of the lines. Water doesn't save you from the dusty fines - all it does is give you very fine water droplets to carry the dust into your lungs. If you smoke, you are a sickness waiting to happen. Smoke compromised lungs are no match for dust - read that Steve McQueen & asbestos. Buy a rubber face mask w/ cartridges.Don (Doom & Gloom) ReinhardThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!

        1. User avater
          alecs | Jul 01, 2005 08:59pm | #15

          Don,
          You're right about the $20 difference in blade costs. I guess the other issue is the continuous smooth rim vs. the serrated rim. One might work better than the other? I forgot to mention in my other post that I bought both blades.Thanks for your advice about the respirator. I bought one of these already, and plan to use it. I guess it's also good to have the shop vac outside so that the dust that gets through the unit doesn't end up all over everywhere.I'd imagine that any sparks will be extinguished by the time they fly up the vac hose, but I'll make sure. I'll give the post mortem later....

          1. Don | Jul 01, 2005 11:12pm | #16

            Alec: I routinely use a continuous rim DeWalt saw blade in my good ol' Crapsman circular saw dry to cut granite. It leaves the surface smooth enough that I can go directly to finishing. The dust cloud fills my back yard! I come out looking like I'm 90 yrs old. And that's w/ the wind blo2wing away from me. Safety glasses & the rubber half face mask make a difference between survival & a near fatal dose of granite dust. I also have an MK tile saw w/ a 10" continuous rim blade that leaves an edge smooth & flat enough that I can go directly to finishing w/ a 100 grit diamond surface lap wheel. The MK is water cooled. I still wear my mask. I can see the very fine water droplets in the air, and when finished, can see the dust deposited everywhere. Guess I'm trying to say that for me continuous rim blades do a great job and you gotta protect your lungs & eyes.The GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!

  4. dinothecarpenter | Jul 02, 2005 03:07am | #17

    What is on the other side of the fridge?

    !/4" on the front or all the way?

    LA-EZ D

    1. User avater
      alecs | Jul 05, 2005 04:37pm | #18

      Hi
      The counter top cut went as well as could be expected. Major problems included that the fence I was using moved during the cut (oops) and that the 4" blade did not go all the way through the counter top. A 4.5" blade did do the entire cut. All's good now. Thanks all for your help on this. Alec

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