I’m replacing the trim in front of repainting the house and I’ve got a couple windows and the front door where the exterior trim was stapled on top of horizontally (lapped) laid hardiplank leaving large gaps. I’d like to cut the hardiplank in place so I can install the new trim flush and butted up against the hardiplank rather than on top of it.
Is there a type of knife that can cut the hardiplank without taking it down? I’d try my circular saw but this won’t reach near the ground or soffit for the door trim.
Will I have to extend flashing beneath the trim and new hardiplank cut line? Do I have to treat the cut edge of the hardiplank to keep it from absorbing water?
Replies
Congratulations!!!!!!!
Sounds to me like you finally found a good reason to buy the Fein Multi-Master !!!
Haven't tried it on Hardi, but it cuts thru nails......
they make a guillotinetype tool that you can rent if the cuts are straight.
All straight cuts. Do I have to treat the cut ends? Just paint them?
Forget the guillotine, it won't cut installed siding.
If you have one of those little Makita 9.6V tile saws with a diamond blade it will cut it slowly and get pretty close to surrounding obstacles.
Joe H
That should work. Anything special to do to the cut ends of the hardiplank to keep it from absorbing moisture?
If you are getting ready to paint, paint the ends.
It doesn't soak up water like a sponge, but can't hurt to seal it.
Joe H
Remember to use a mask as this will make more silica dust than you can believe. No ,wind ,fans or holding your breath wont work. Safety glasses and gloves too.
Definitely. I've already made myself sick from cutting 300 or so board feet of aromatic cedar into trim.
I bought a cheap gadget that looks like a flat bar with a sharp carbide tip sticking it out either end. You score the board with a few swipes and you break it like drywall. If you gave it a few more swipes you would easily cut right through installed siding.
I think i saw in FHC where someone used an old 7 1/2 inch carbide skill saw blade , put a handle on it and used it the same way as above.
roger
I'm going to look for that at my roofing/siding place as while I really want to Makita tile saw, they look to be going for between $90 and $300. Not sure why the big difference. I guess the cheap price doesn't include a diamond blade, battery, etc. I've only got to cut like maybe 20 pieces of the siding for this job.
I think I paid something like $10.00. It is made for cutting cement board type stuff. Not the greatest looking cut edge but more than good enough if you are covering it with trim.
roger
4.5" RT angle grinder, 4.5" diamond wheel. Cut an 1/8" away from the trim , remove trim, remove siding under it, replace trim , and CAULK the gap for expansion/contraction , Big Stretch is a good choice. Then and only then paint.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
The grinder with a diamond blade is the way to go.If you can't get into a corner I use an 1/8" drill bit and preforate.
I also like the grinder for EIFS and the Vulkum like caulk holding it.
ANDYSZ2
WHY DO I HAVE TO EXPLAIN TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY THAT BEING A SOLE PROPRIETOR IS A REAL JOB?
REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST
Yeppers. Nothin to it. I bought a blade for my circ saw. still in the package..just the Malco shears and a grinder and a drill for installing my siding. Retro-repairs, the grinder is the do all. Multi master only if you are paid by the hour (G) it would be really slow going, esp on the laps. Forget score and snap, my arms would give out in no time.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
Well.........................if you had girlie arms i guess that is a problem;)
Sometimes the simplest really is the best.
roger
Aint nuthin simple about scoreing 14' LF of hardie that is already lapped and verticle...knock yerself out. I'll use a grinder.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
I'll send photos of the finished job.
I'm also replacing the facia and pressed board soffits with 1 X6 and tongue and groove cedar. Water is running down the facia and rotting everything even though the house is only 6 years old. The drip edge isn't doing its job. I got up in the attic and (not an easy thing with cathedral ceilings) and saw that the inside of the facia is already black and punky. The roof deck looks good though.