Replies

1. 
   dovetail97128 | Oct 27, 2007 05:00am | #1

   Sabre Saw or 4" grinder with a thin cutting wheel used along a straight edge.

   EDIT:

   OOPs was trying to multi task and read "Metal " holow core in my mind. Disregard my post.

   They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 10/27/2007 12:45 am by dovetail97128

2. 
   Jim_Allen | Oct 27, 2007 05:18am | #2

   In the olden days, we were taught to score the veneer before making the cut with a power saw. I've done that plenty of times.

   Nowadays the new carbides will pretty much go right through chip free if you know how to handle a saw. One mistake though and you have problems.

   fka (formerly known as) blue

1. 
   larryscabnuts | Oct 27, 2007 05:28am | #3

   When I did it before I retired I scored it with the saw blade at about an 1/8th inch then all the way through. Then touched it up with a fine tooth rasp or sanding block.

3. 
   DougU | Oct 27, 2007 05:57am | #4

   A trick I learned on here thanks to Jeff Buck;

   Set a strait edge for your skill saw. Set the skill saw at about 1/16th - 1/32nd depth, now run the saw backwards using the strait edge as your guide and you'll have a nice score of the veneer.

   Set your saw to the proper depth to cut the door off, (cutting forward) and finish up with a sanding block/plain on the new edges.

   Your done

   Doug

1. 
   JeffBuck | Oct 27, 2007 06:53am | #7

   I've upped the anty and have been skipping the straighjt edge for a while now ...

    

   just mark it and follow backwards ... then forwards.

   started on house fulla hollow core's ...

    

   then had a coupla decent solid / raised panel doors and I was feeling reckless that day ... worked just fine. Figured ... what the hell ... no one looks that close to a door bottom anyways ... and at that particular moment in time ...

   I was way far from the van ... and wasn't supposed to be trimming doors anyways ... and it was late in the day for a bath company that gave me a hard time about "extra hours" ... even when they threw last minute "extra" work at me ...

   so I tried ... and it worked just fine.

    

   since then ... I have broken out the straight edge a coupla times for doors I really didn't want to buy if I had to.

   Jeff    Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

1. 
   Jim_Allen | Oct 27, 2007 07:15am | #8

   Oh oh....thats how it all starts Jeff!

   Pretty soon you'll be sawing off the table and smashing your guard on your new saws!

   You little cheater you!fka (formerly known as) blue

1. 
   JeffBuck | Oct 27, 2007 08:10am | #9

   I always understood the smashing the guard off ...

    

   never would do it ... but knew what U were talking about.

   but always got lost on the "saw the table off" ...

    

   what are we sawing off and why don't we like it?

    

   U talking about making a "flush cut" circular saw ... no little side table?

    

   Jeff    Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

1. 
   Jim_Allen | Oct 27, 2007 09:56pm | #17

   Yesm exactly that Jeff.I've always worked with an open saw. The history of powersaws started this way. I think the original 508's (Porter Cable) came this way. So did the next generation of the first 528's or something like that. Anyways, when us oldtimer framers got new saws, the first thing we figured out was that the extended table was a serious impediment to the methods that we use to frame...so off it came because all of our old saws were like that. To the newer generations of young bucks that started with the extended tables, it might seem like a meaningless detail, but they don't have any idea of how many techiques they effectively eliminate. I guess a good analogy would be removing the kickback guard on a table saw. Imagine how many procedures would be rendered obsolete if that guard was a welded, fixed part of the saw. I've said this before: if I could only choose to eliminate the extended baseplate or the guard, I'd leave the guard and get rid of that extended table. It is a huge reason that I can do many of the things I do. It would be hard for me to explain in writing, but if you followed me all day, you'd know. You wouldn't be able to discern a lot of the intricacies of the techniques, but you would notice that I don't need a sawzall on a new rough frame house (usually). FKA Blue (eyeddevil)

2. 
   JeffBuck | Oct 28, 2007 06:36am | #19

   I may have to get a throw away just to Booger ...

    

   I am fairly well known for using the circular saw in unusual situations ...

   so might work for me.

   I know what U mean about "sawzaw-less" ... as I found myself putting down the circle cutter and grabbing the sawzaw a coupla times last week ... flush cut ability ... I woulda shoved the circular saw in there and plowed away.

    

   Jeff    Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

3. 
   Jim_Allen | Oct 28, 2007 07:00am | #20

   Jeff, if you do a lot of saw work, you will never be sorry that you checked this out. Its probably more critical in remodeling, but not by much. One of the things I did for years was to have two saws: one that I used daily without the extended baseplate and one that had a full baseplate. I did that because I was convinced that there were situations that the extended baseplate would be important to have. I've always carried two saws for myself to work and the one with the full base was always in the truck.At some point, I bought a new saw and instead of cutting the new plate, I removed it, then installed the plate from the old saw. I kept that plate in my truck then and had two saws...because I used to often bring two saws out for various tasks while framing. For instance, I might have two different blades on or have one saw up in the roof and one down n my horses. The reality is that as I got better with the saw, I never could find a reason for using a full base plate. I eventually tossed out the spare plate and have never thought about using one again.After working with a saw like this and experiencing the multitude of new techniques for doing things, you'll probably not go back. Of course, your mileage will vary. Interestingly, I can't work with a saw blade brake either....it takes away my ability to have a variable speed power saw which is another story altogether. I don't need that very often, but when I do...the brake would peeve me. FKA Blue (eyeddevil)

4. 
   haldi | Oct 27, 2007 05:58am | #5

   what Jim said, score it with your utility knife first.

   the backside won't splinter out

5. 
   Momo | Oct 27, 2007 06:06am | #6

   Make up a shoot board for your skilsaw. Put masking tape over the door cut line on all 4 sides, that way the cut-off won't fall away so easily. Clamp the shoot board to the line, set up the saw depth and cut. The edges will need a touch of sandpaper, and don't forget to paint the new bottom edge. Simple, after you have done it once.

6. 
   Jer | Oct 27, 2007 03:25pm | #10

   I tape it with the masking tape and use a 40 tooth blade freehand. You can use a guide if you want (probably better) , but I find with a sharp block plane to touch it up and ease the edges just a bit, I get a pretty good job done in a short period of time.

1. 
   danz857 | Oct 27, 2007 03:59pm | #11

   Thanks all for the responses, a couple more things:

   one the door is for access to the water meter therefore only really one show side, so which side of the door should i cut, the inside of the door or the show side?

   Second thing, since it is a door that will not get much use and is barely rubbing the carpet, I am thinking I really only need to take a 1/8" off, is using a power sander a bad idea?

1. 
   danz857 | Oct 27, 2007 04:01pm | #12

   by the way that pic was taking prior to the casing and carpet being installed

   Dan

2. 
   LittleItaly | Oct 27, 2007 04:27pm | #14

   If you cut the door with visible side down on the horses your circ saw will make a clean cut through the face (provided you use a decent blade).

   I always keep a small block of maple ,or various hardwood, with a piece of 80 grit floor paper glued to it , in my pouch.  This works great for easing the door edges and any other tapping, adjusting, etc.

3. 
   DonCanDo | Oct 27, 2007 06:06pm | #15

   The ideal tool to remove 1/8" would be a power plane.

   I think you may have a hard time using a circular saw because the blade itself is at least 1/8" and in effect you'll be trying to "shave off" an 1/8".  The blade will constantly try to ride off of the straight edge.  It can be done, but practice first so you know how much pressure to apply to the straight edge.  Don't even think about it with without a really stiff straight edge.

   A belt sander would work, but it's hard to keep the bottom edge square.  Since you don't really care what the inside edge looks like, and if you don't have a power plane, go for it.  Draw a straight line on the good side of the door, set the door good side up, nice and stable, on horses.  Run the belt at a slight angle from the top  to the bottom and remove a little at a time until you reach your mark.  By "slight angle", I mean don't keep the belt parallel with the grain because it's harder to maintain square if you do.  If you can't maintain square, err on the side of a bevel towards the inside.  Here again, if you have an old door (or even a piece of scrap lumber), a little practice can't hurt.

   The bottom may not be perfectly square and the inside edge may not even be straight, but again, it doesn't sound like you care too much about this.

    

1. 
   webby | Oct 27, 2007 08:35pm | #16

   I just did the same thing this morning used a shooting board and scored the door right next to the edge of the shooting board and let er' rip. I usd a circular saw with 18 or 24 teeth per, and had no real cip out to speak of.Chris Webb

   Chris' Handyman Service

2. 
   Jim_Allen | Oct 27, 2007 10:02pm | #18

   I agree about the use of a plane. I'd probably opt to use my block plane first, shaving downward, with the grain to the cut line, then finish the bottom cut with my power saw.My cut line would be 3/16" providing a 1/16" ease when finished. The power plane or belt sander would be just as good and I'm sure all the finishers in here would have the skill. I don't and would function a tad bit easy with the simple low angle block plane.I am always hesitant to shave 1/8" off a door, even with a sharp blade because of tearout. I don't use shooting boards though for anything like that.
   FKA Blue (eyeddevil)

7. 
   Matt | Oct 27, 2007 04:18pm | #13

   I do the masking tape thing as described above.  If you want you can score it with a sharp utility knife before the cut, and use that as your cut line.  As long as you have a sharp blade and take it slow, that MDF (or at least that is what it looks like) won't chip much if at all.    You can set up a fence for your saw if you want.  I use a level and a few clamps.  Then I do a quick clean up with a belt sander.  You probably want to paint it before re-installing the door.

   Here is the hint though... in my experience doors like that have a 3/4" thick piece of solid wood in the bottom.  If you cut off anything more than a 1/2" you will likely have to repair the door.  Cutting off 3/8s or 7/16s is better.

8. 
   Dani | Oct 28, 2007 04:48pm | #21

   Score your cut line with a razor knive, and either use a straight edge or cut a 1/8 oversize and plane to the line, but watch for blowout and the stiles.

   If you plan to do this in the future again, it will be worth to expend some time making your own cutting guide, you would not regret it.

9. 
   Dave45 | Oct 28, 2007 05:07pm | #22

   I usually use a circular saw with a 40 tpi carbide "finish" blade and an edge guide.  If tear-out is a concern, I wrap the cut line with blue tape.  After the cut, I knock down the edges with a pad sander using 180 grit sandpaper.