I’ve got quite about 60 4″ holes that I need to drill in some hardie lap siding for ventilation purposes. The hole saw doesn’t last too long in the hardie…does anyone have any suggestions on what I should use? I’m wearing out the hole saw bits FAST! thanks for the help.
From building boxes and fitting face frames to installing doors and drawers, these techniques could be used for lots of cabinet projects.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
same hole saw used for cutting holes in tile...
better tile suppliers and the big boxes carry them..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
A rotozip with a masonry bit sitting in the circle cutting jig if you have room for the spin.
Make sure you wear safety glasses and dust mask...it really kicks it up.
how well does the rotozip work? i've got one, but haven't used it on the hardie. how about the bit...does it dull out pretty quickly? thanks
slow...
dusty...
lotsa bits...
not perfect holes...
Prefferred carbide holesaw w/ carbide bit... 38$.. tile wholesaler...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
i was just talking with the tool man at the lumberyard. he thought that the carbide "grit" bit might work better than the carbide tip. he admitted that he was guessing here, though. his thoughts were that the grit might last longer in the hardie that the carbide tip??? any thoughts on that? thanks for all of the help so far......
I use the carbide grit with a masory bit for a piolet....
hold back on the rpm's...
many holes later... still going...
remember... ya get what ya pay for...
the HF saws are a waste of money...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
thanks again for the help...i'm going to the hardware store to drop some $$$$$.
You'd need to use a carbide bit. Will create a LOT of dust.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
I found it to work well. It is dusty as all get out. I had to cut about 12 holes in the hardi stucco board, and one bit did all of them, and there was a lot of life left in the bit. I used the same bit used for tile, I believe it was the XB-TC1
Don't get me wrong here...I'm NOT a rotozip die hard, but in this application it worked very well, and I had complete control of the whole operation.
I've never had a carbide rotozip bit that lasted more than ten seconds before breaking. The angels were with you if you managed 12 holes with only one bit.
RippySkippy's reminder to wear a mask is a good one. That particular dust is extra unhealthy.
Yeah, I'd think a carbide hole saw like they use for tile.
Fastenal carries them but it looks like you have to wait for that size.... 78 semolians, not too bad when compared to several bi-metal saws
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0204944
and don't forget a carbide tipped pilot bit
.
.
.
, wer ist jetzt der Idiot ?
Regular steel will last one hole. Carbide grit will do maybe ten. Toothed carbide or diamond grit is what you need for 40 holes.
The 4" diamond is P/N: 6930A54 $140.79
at http://www.mcmaster.com
I eventually bought some carbide toothed hole saws from Triangle Fastener Corp. I have not had another problem with cutting holes in Hardie Board. I also bought some carbide toothed jig saw blades for notching Hardie.
James Hart
any bit that you can get from harbor freight... they'll replace em free... so you might make 40 trips...
p
Why are you drilling holes for ventilation? Is this along the eaves? For the soffit? It may be cheaper, easier and faster to use core-a-vent or the like for venting. Just a suggestion.
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-49-56-4003-Carbide-Tipped-4-Inch/dp/B0007WKA1A/ref=sr_1_8/002-8372906-0493612?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1181311537&sr=8-8Milwaukee 4" carbide tipped holesaw - $26 + 20% of with coupon code at Amazon.Doesn't make sense to buy local for those kind of things - you'll pay $37-50 for one and at Amazon you can get it for $20 - buy 3 of them and you'll be perfect.(Note: All milwaukee accesories are coupon code for 20% off at Amazon)JT
Rotozip works good, dust isn't bad, unless it's directly overhead.
Don't use the standard drywall bit, use the 1/8th tile bit, made for cutting cement board and soft tile. (probably also helps with dust)
I used it several times on my siding job. Used it for siding, soffit, 5/16ths material and even on the 1" trim. Use the circle cutter attachment that comes with the tool and you can cut circles all day long. Didn't actualy break the tip until later when I was cutting tile for inside work.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=123166-353-XB-TC1&lpage=none