Replies

1. 
   Hudson Valley Carpenter | Jun 16, 2009 06:34am | #1

   Being a bit old fashioned, I'd use a hand saw, one of the shorties if possible.  I'd cut carefully down to the last 1/8", then tilt the saw up so that only the first two or three teeth are cutting.  That last 1/8" will take a minute or two but you should have enough control to avoid nicking the hardwood floor.  

    

2. 
   TomE | Jun 16, 2009 06:44am | #2

   Multimaster.

   Drill/bit and sharp chisel.

   bore a series holes straight down through the plate use the chisel to "connect the dots" and straighten the "cut"

   judicious use of recip, jig or hand saw can also hog out the bulk of the plate and finish off with a chisel. (think in terms of a "V" cut similar to tree felling.. saw straight down then chisel the "V")

   plunge cut with chainsaw (only for those with experience doing so and up to date medical    ;)    )

   Multimaster

    

    

    

1. 
   mikeroop | Jun 16, 2009 06:53am | #3

   I second the multi master

3. 
   MFournier | Jun 16, 2009 07:04am | #4

   Since you cut out the plate before installing the jam and casing you should be able to cut out the plate with a reciprocating saw (don't use a long blade that could nick the floor beyond where the casing and jam will cover.) With a little care even if you should go a bit deep and hit the flooring it will not be seen once you install the jam and casing. After many remodels and new doorways installed over existing floors I have never had a problem using a reciprocating saw with a short blade. Also although it may seem obvious use a new sharp blade the less pressure you need to make the cut the less chance you will make a mistake and the more control you will have. Just as they say it is not the sharp knife that is going to cut you it is the dull one that you need to force that will slip and cut you. (or in this case slip off the plate and mark the floor beyond the area that will be covered when you install the door.

4. 
   jimAKAblue | Jun 16, 2009 07:28am | #5

   Power Saw.

   Cut off the extended table.

5. 
   KenHill3 | Jun 16, 2009 09:18am | #6

   This is a perfect job for the Multimaster.

6. 
   Piffin | Jun 16, 2009 01:47pm | #7

   Used to use a sawsall. Now i'd use the MM

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   seeyou | Jun 16, 2009 03:10pm | #8

   That brings up an interesting question I've had: Why haven't I seen any Fein tools in person? I've never noticed one in the store or on a job site, but see you guys discussing them often. I just did a search and there are no dealers here.http://www.quittintime.com/      View Image        

1. 
   Piffin | Jun 16, 2009 03:20pm | #10

   Behind the times.When I got mine, none of the local yards or hardware stores carried them. I ordered online from Coastal tools in Conn. - a very fine outfit BTW. I got a phone call to clarify something on my order the same day. They could have just sent what I ordered but it was not necessarily right. Somebody was thinking!But over the last two weeks, I have been in every local hardware/yard and they all have the MM now, and a full rack of blades 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   xxPaulCPxx | Jun 16, 2009 03:23pm | #11

   Funny, for all the ragging I hear about them, Ryobi is probably the most common power tool brand used by the contractors I see around here.

   Tu stultus esRebuilding my home in Cypress, CAAlso a CRX fanatic!

   Look, just send me to my drawer.  This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.

1. 
   seeyou | Jun 16, 2009 04:01pm | #12

   I've actually seen some Ryobi stuff I like the looks of. Not sure how it holds up.http://www.quittintime.com/      View Image        

1. 
   xxPaulCPxx | Jun 16, 2009 06:01pm | #14

   As the clumsiest tool user in the world, I can say the Impact driver must be solid steel under the plastic.  I dumped it off my roof onto the concrete about 20 times... had to replace alot of bits, cracked some plastic, but the tool is still going strong!

   Tu stultus esRebuilding my home in Cypress, CAAlso a CRX fanatic!

   Look, just send me to my drawer.  This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.

2. 
   JTC1 | Jun 16, 2009 11:59pm | #18

   >>...Ryobi stuff I like the looks of. Not sure how it holds up.<<

   Ryobi cordless drills and impact drivers work for me every day - some have done so since 2004. As does a 10" contractors saw with built in stand / wheels - the one that FHB reviewed.

   Don't know about any other of their corded tools.

   JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.

3. 
   GregGibson | Jun 16, 2009 07:31pm | #15

   I bought my MM about 10 years ago, on advice from some of the guys here - I love it, use it all the time, and dazzle my friends in the tile business and trim carpenter friends, too.  No one here in my town stocks them - I bought mine from Amazon.

   I've been buying blades from Walter Tool Co. in Norwell, Ma.  They price them right, and the orders are always accurate with reasonable shipping.

   I'm going to keep an eye open for the competitor's blades, now that there are MM clones being sold.  I bought the star adapter, so I can go either way on the blades.

   It's a great tool, even for occasional use.

   Greg

1. 
   DonCanDo | Jun 16, 2009 10:47pm | #16

   I'm going to keep an eye open for the competitor's blades...

   Check out http://multiblades.com/.  I learned about them here and I've been happy with their blades.

4. 
   Zorrohood | Jun 17, 2009 03:15am | #20

   Quickset carries the Fein MM.

7. 
   wood4rd | Jun 16, 2009 03:17pm | #9

   The MM would be first choice. If you dont have one, use a wide taping knife or thin metal to protect the hardwood floor and use a sawsall or small handsaw.

8. 
   craigf | Jun 16, 2009 04:27pm | #13

   If possible, cut your bottom plate halfway through on the bottom before framing. Cut the top half after.

   
   

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   Edited 6/16/2009 9:29 am ET by CraigF

9. 
   IMERC | Jun 16, 2009 11:36pm | #17

   Multimaster...

   or one of it's clones...

   http://www.tylertool.com/multimaster.html

    

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

   WOW!!! What a Ride!

   
   Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

    

   "Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"

10. 
    JTC1 | Jun 17, 2009 12:06am | #19

    Like everybody else - Miultmaster would be my first choice.

    If I did not have one, then I would drop back to my previous technique.  Short aggressive hand saw (think Stanley "Sharptooth")- aluminum coil stock taped to the floor on both sides of the plate - saw carefully and use the steep angle technique mentioned before for the last little bit.

    Even if I hit the aluminum and screw up the saw - it's easier / cheaper / faster to replace the saw than repair the floor.

    Jim

     

    Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.