I’m wondering what your preferred method is for cutting neat holes in plaster over rock lath. Not wood lath. I have to cut out and replace a decent-sized piece of plaster to make a plumbing repair.
Last time I opened up the wall, I went through two keyhole saws in no time. I’m wondering if maybe a circular saw with an abrasive blade might be a better approach.
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how 'bout a 4" grinder with a diamond blade, with GOOD dust removal
Sawzall with plaster blade. Nowhere near the dust of a circ saw or grinder. If you can find the short ones, easier to handle for no wire cutting and bounce.
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grinder with diamond blade and a shop vac.
sawzaw at very slight angle and slow speed to score your way thru ...
or circular saw if I can plastic off and blow the dust out a window.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Multimaster with the grout removal blade.
Yup
Yeah, I'd go with the MM. Probably experiment with different blades depending on the consistency of the plaster.
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I can almost certainly borrow a MM. Probably not a bad idea. If not, I'll do the sawzaw slowly.
Now thats a good call. I've tried the wood blades which of course get chewed to death. The grout tool is great for what its intended for, it makes sense for plaster too.
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Indeed! I'm almost reluctant to post yet another testimony to the MM since I'm sure we're all tired of hearing about its magnificence, but...
I needed to cut a somewhat neat hole in plaster today to do a repair. I've done it many times before, but I've never used the Multimaster. It may have been your suggestion or something I read somewhere else, but I decided to try it just like you said: Multimaster with the grout removal blade.
Very nice neat cut with very little dust. The repair will take me half the time I had planned.
Good tip, thanks.
Now I'll ad my own tip...
I removed the loose plaster and left the lath since it was secure. Normally, I use 3/8" drywall to repair thin plaster or 1/2" with shims if it's thicker. Today's plaster was barely 1/4". Since 1/4" drywall is not readily available, I used 1/4" Fiberock (Durock or Hardibacker would have worked just as well). Instead of screwing it, I glued it and used finish nails to hold it while the glue sets. I skim-coated the cement backer so it will take paint properly. I'm confident that I'll have a durable, permanent repair.
Lenox makes a folding hand saw that you can put any sawsall blade into (it has a blue handle). When you buy it, it usually comes with one of their plaster blades, and they work very well and last a long time.
Drill a hole in each corner of the area you want to cut out with a 3/8" masonry bit...just a normal one, no hammer drill required. This lets you get the tip of the blade in to get started. I always use the handsaw for surgical demo because it puts very little dust in the air compared to a sawsall, and it is really quite effective.
My house is all plaster and rock lath, and for some reason I just can't seem to stop finding reasons to cut holes in the walls.
Hmmmmm. A hand saw.... Who woulda thunk! <G>
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Like all of us, I have to remind myself that not every job requires a power tool or compressed air, and sometimes the feel and dexterity of a quality hand tool is best.Would I use my hand saw for a wall to floor cut for a new opening...no. But for electrical box retrofits, small access patches, etc., it's fast, clean, and accurate.
I would use my roto zip.