Cutting post-formed laminate counter top

I am sure I have seen a post about favorite methods of cutting down an existing post-formed laminate counter top but I cannot find it. I have used several methods but thought I would see what has worked best for you guys. I have a long top that the customer wants the sink area and short top on either side cut out to use in a basement. Previously I have attached a strip to the underside to level and cut with a circ saw with reasonable results.
What’s the preferred method, router, jigsaw. circular, recip, or whatever? Some of these methods would require a hand saw or some other method to cut the transition area where backsplash and top meet.
Edited 5/12/2003 12:06:12 PM ET by RASCONC
Replies
I gave up field cutting PF tops years ago. There is a very nice saw Midwest Automation makes for just this purpose. Why waste time when you can get a finished top , cut to size, ends capped and sink cutout for around $11.00/foot?
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cut it with acircular saw upside down and finish backsplash cut with a jigsaw then beltsand smooth for the endcap
Thanks Steve, just exactly what I thought would be best in this situation. What is your choice of blade? I picked up a DeWalt plywood blade one time for the job and did not notice it had the reinforced center which is not too good if cutting more than 3/4" goods. It looks like a good plywood blade would be best, what do you use?
For GEOB21, I would normally agree but in this case the customer, a minister trying to finish off a basement, already has the counter top that he is wanting to recycle and it does seem to make sense. I have lots of other work to do for him and was going to do this for minimal time to keep him from whacking it off on his own.
Thanks to both for your advice.
Edited 5/12/2003 11:01:32 PM ET by RASCONC
i always have a freud fine cut off blade in my circ saw its a triple tooth atb blade
but that doesnt matter really, cut close to the line upside down, cut the backsplash with a jigsaw, and clean up the mess with a beltsander right side up, for that i just use the same 36 grit belt i use for scribing
Thanks for the input, I will jump on it this afternoon. It will be the highlight of my day after going to the dentist.
I've always gone all the way around from the backside with a circular saw. If I remember rightly, you do a lot of counter tops, I only do 4 or 5 a year , but, how come the jigsaw? I also use an angle grinder followed by a belt sander belt on a stick of MDF ( cordless belt sander).
EliphIno!
well it always seems scary to cut up through the backsplash witha circ saw and hard to control, a jigsaw just seems more controlable
and yes i install hundreds of countertops year and have even recut miter joints on the job site, a tense situation indeed on a large section of top worth a couple of hundred dollars
That's why I was asking. I always defer to the real pros. I'm jigsawin' up the splash for now on. EliphIno!
How not to do this............I was doing a major gutting and remodel of an 2 unit apartment. The following, I found out after the fact. One night late, the apartment owner came to the unit and made a decision to reuse the existing p.o.s. cabinets and counter. Due to a new floor plan the existing counter had to be shortened up by about 18" from the 8' length. Sitting there was my tablesaw (DeWalt portable). It must have been too tempting. The owner cranked the blade height up as high it would go. Without pulling out any of the extensions he proceeded to attempt the cut. As I understand, he angled the backsplash through the blade, continued the cutand had a couple inches left to finish the cut and the thing got away from him. The counter snapped (in the wrong direction imo) and went flying. The 18" piece left a nice gouge in a finished painted wall. Well, the next day I got all the gory details, "calmly" yelled at the owner, prettied up the cut edge as best I could and put a little padlock on the ON/OFF switch from there on out.
Thanks, I can visualize this very painfully. Has the scar from biting your tongue healed yet? My homeowner is a real character and all around good guy. He is a Hungarian minister and counsler who is not afraid to work. Putting lots of sweat equity ito a place but needs some guidance often. Listens well and deserves help and consideration.
Yeah, it healed up pretty good. My S's sound a little funny though. Your home owner sounds like great guy.
Actually, my apartment guy has become a pretty good friend. Have done quite a bit a work for him on his properties and home. When he's around helping he usually stays away from blades attached to motors. He's a great source for lots of great stories too. Usually keeps me pretty entertained.
I've done this twice in 20 years on my radial arm saw. I was very careful to square the blade. With the backsplash against the fence, crank the blade carrier up as high as is necessary to cut just the backslash. Then pull the blade forward, clearing the backsplash, and lower the blade into the work. Cut with a pull stroke as much of the post formed material as the full extent of the saw will allow. I found myself short by about 8 inches of cutting through the front.
At this point, you have cut the backsplash down to within 1 1/2 inches of a full through cut, and you have cut the middle out of the top. You can safely remove the piece and turn it around so that the front edge of the counter top is against the radial arm saw fence. Be very careful with your blade alignment, and draw the blade into the uncut area. You can easily meet the previos cut. Now you're dealing with a piece of material that is 90% cut through and therefore very susceptible to breakage. It's a simple matter to finish the cut with a sharp hand saw. You can clean up the edge with a belt sander.
This process is good enough for rental property, so recycling a countertop for basement use should be just fine. It ain't rocket science. But . . . . . don't try a miter ! !
Good luck. Greg. ( P.S. Guards removed for photographic purposes only ! )
Thanks for your input, top is a bit large to bring back to my basement where my ras resides. Will keep it in mind for next time. I think I will pick up a new Makita worm drive and do it. Just been looking for a good reason to add another circ to to pile.
Thanks again, Bob
Maybe . . . . . take the saw to the counter top ? ? ?
Greg.
This old radial arm is fixed to a table. I would buy him a new top first. My electric and plumbing supplier had an open house today and I got the Makita worm drive circular saw with Makita tool belt for $149. was just looking for an excuse for new toy. I could have done it with any circular saw I am sure but this worm does crawl straight.
I turned the top upside down and took a scrap of plywood, used two drywall screws and attached it to the underside and drew a cut line. I would probably add a strip to use as an edge guide next time. The ply kept me from having a bump when I came off the front edge of the post-formed edge. Cut like butter. Took a framing square and extended the line up the back and sliced it off with the same saw. Took my belt sander but never took it off the truck.
Thanks again for advice.
Edited 5/13/2003 7:19:38 PM ET by RASCONC