Replies

1. 
   dustinf | Apr 07, 2006 07:06am | #1

   maddog has a new tool for 1/4 round.  patent pending.

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   "I always say they should make killing people legal.  Of course, if they did, I would probably be the first one killed."- Barry Bonds 

1. 
   saulgood | Apr 07, 2006 07:49pm | #10

   HA HA that lazer saw is AWESOME! I Need that technology for my airless sprayer.

2. 
   DougU | Apr 07, 2006 07:39am | #2

   Todd

   What's your problem, specifically?

   If your having problems making nice clean cuts then use a zero clearance subfence.  I make a L and clamping it to the miter saw fence. Make a cut just deep enough to cut through at both 45's. Make your mark on your base shoe/quarter round and it's very easy to set it to the saw kerfs to get good accurate cuts.

   You need to give a little more info.

   Doug

    

1. 
   todd66 | Apr 07, 2006 07:54am | #3

   I think your idea will work for me, I've tried it before but just struggled with out of square walls and adjusting that system to take a degree or two off and shredding up my subfence, if that makes any sense. Always tough to explain stuff typing it.

2. 
   Sphere | Apr 07, 2006 07:39pm | #9

   I swear by my Lion Miter trimmer for running base shoe. Cordless, quiet, no dust. I have it on a carpet scrap and never have to get up off my knees to make a cut a tad less. We're talking see thru thin shaves.

   I can't see any use in coping base shoe, unless I am asked to.

   Had a GF using it, she set it on a chair, when it went south on her, she grabbed at it and promptly lost 2 fingers...that wadn't what I'd call pretty. Freaking sharp they are.

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   " Iam not a poet, but your hat is singularily inadequate"

1. 
   DougU | Apr 08, 2006 02:43am | #11

   promptly lost 2 fingers...

   I'm visualizing that! Ouch. With the momentum of that heavy cast iron and the sharp blades its a sure thing.

   I have one but its always buried when I need it. They do make some nice transparent shavings.

   Doug

2. 
   PhillGiles | Apr 10, 2006 08:18am | #13

   Like Imerc says, drum sanders were made for this - when I was working for the floor guys (I came in after they'd put down hardwood and install new base and shoe) we had a drum sander mounted via a mandrill right on a 1/4 horse universal motor and a oiece of bar-stock set up like a grinding guide for lathe chissles - rest the shoe on the bar and move it into the drum to form the cope.And quarter round is een easier than shoe (which also requires a back-cut as it's only rounded along the edge).
   Phill Giles
   The Unionville Woodwright
   Unionville, Ontario

3. 
   hammer1 | Apr 07, 2006 07:58am | #4

   What seems to be the problem, Todd? A couple of issues are common. One being cutting precisely to the mark. Another is eliminating tearout and another is compensating for corners that are not 45°.

   I use a slide compound saw. When I cut small moldings, I make up a bunch of backer strips. Nothing more than some 3/4" x 3/4" strips about 16" - 20" long, usually some scrap rips off the table saw. I hold the backer on the miter saw so that is makes good contact with both fences and drop the blade down to cut partially into it. I hold the backer steady and line up my mark to the appropriate side of the kerf. The backer tells me exactly where the blade will cut and keeps the piece from being pulled by the blade, snapping or tearing out on the back. It's easy to mark the short end of an outside corner, even with the wall, and just line that mark up with the kerf. You can also screw a sacrificial fence to the saw, but you switch the saw back and forth from right 45 to left so much, the center section gets cut away. I just keep moving my backer a little at a time and grab a new one when it gets too short.

   I also cut a couple of short test pieces with 45's on the ends, both inside and outside. I use those to test whether a corner is a 45 or not. It's fairly easy to set your saw off the detent, a line or so, to bisect the angle. It doesn't take long to know just how much one line on the scale amounts to in adjustment. I used to use a block plane for fitting and I also have a Lion trimmer, but it's so much faster and more accurate to just set the saw off a little. I'd rather have the fit be correct directly off the saw than to have to do any whittling.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   todd66 | Apr 07, 2006 08:23am | #6

   Thanks guys, I will try all of these ideas.

1. 
   Norman | Apr 07, 2006 06:34pm | #7

   You can always cut them oversize and use a belt sander for the final dimension.

4. 
   Novy | Apr 07, 2006 08:08am | #5

   Try a pair of these...............

   http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32192&cat=1,51222&ap=1

    

    

    

   On a hill by the harbour

1. 
   blue_eyed_devil | Apr 10, 2006 04:54am | #12

   I've never used a pair of those shears Novy but I've seen the guys working with them. I was very impressed with the speed and the accuracy.

   blue 

5. 
   IMERC | Apr 07, 2006 07:08pm | #8

   rough cope...

   finish the radius to fit with a sized drum sander mounted in yur drill..

   cake and pie..

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

   WOW!!! What a Ride!

   Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!