Replies

1. 
   kgregor4 | Jan 19, 2007 06:48am | #1

   How about one of these chain pipe cutters?

    

   http://www.automotive-offer.com/rd_p?p=104136&t=1114&c=476433&gift=7442&a=7442-chain%20pipe%20cutters

2. 
   IMERC | Jan 19, 2007 07:00am | #2

   Rigid 10 (10, 20, 30 etc) series with a pipe cutter wheel...

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

   WOW!!! What a Ride!
   Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

1. 
   toolbear | Jan 20, 2007 04:35am | #7

   Rigid 10 -

   Have to dig a big hole to swing it.  I hate digging - unless there is "incoming", in which case few can match my efforts.  The ToolBear

   "Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.

3. 
   xxPaulCPxx | Jan 19, 2007 10:23am | #3

   Cut the pipe with the sawzall until you just break through.  Look through your hole to see where the wires are.  If they are close to your cut, stick something through the cut (like sheetmetal) to press the wires to the other side of the tube and make your cut deeper.  Now thread a string or wire through around the wires and pull them tight toward your cut... so you can cut the opposite side.

   Slowly.  Carefully.  Guided.  Your Sawzall is a precision tool.  Use visegrips on either side of the blade to guide it.  Slower is better on steel, and use a cutting oil.

   You can always make another cut to splice the wire if you goof up.

   Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA

   Also a CRX fanatic!

1. 
   toolbear | Jan 20, 2007 04:37am | #8

   You can always make another cut to splice the wire if you goof up.

   Yes, I know.  Don't ask how <g>.  Method sounds workable.  Assume you clamp on the vice grips and rest the blade along side same.  I have WD 40, will spray.  Not cutting oil, but it's on the van.  Thanks!The ToolBear

   "Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.

4. 
   Omah | Jan 19, 2007 11:22am | #4

   Why would you want to do something like that for in the first place? It just doesn't sound right.

5. 
   DaveRicheson | Jan 19, 2007 01:59pm | #5

   Kill the circuit(s), cut the wire and pipe. You should have enough slack in the wire to pull out and make you splice in a ug splice box. You're going to have to cut the conduite agian anyway to get the splice box in anyway.

   I have a cutter similar to the one in the link posted by kgregor4, but have never tried it on rigid conduit. Might work.

   How are you going to re-thread the pipe, to get new fittings on it, w/o cutting the wire?

    

   Dave

6. 
   VAVince | Jan 19, 2007 02:54pm | #6

   I must be missing something? Why can't you pull the wire out, cut conduit and then re-pull?

1. 
   toolbear | Jan 20, 2007 04:46am | #9

   84388.7 in reply to 84388.1 

   I must be missing something? Why can't you pull the wire out, cut conduit and then re-pull?

   Project built in '60s.  While the wire underground is OK - insulation fine, no galvanic corrosion, a lot of the conduit is not there any more.  Rust stains, rot, etc.  Where it enters a raintight box there is often severe galvanic corrosion.The ToolBear

   "Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.

7. 
   Kgmz | Jan 20, 2007 07:45am | #10

   For about $10 you should be able to go to your local rental yard and rent a Rigid pipe cutter. I just checked online at my local rental yards site, and a 1/8" to 2" pipe cutter rents for $8 and a 2" to 4" pipe cutter rents for $11.

   If you have the room to try with a sawzall, you have room for a pipe cutter. And no chance of cutting wire with a pipe cutter.

   If you were local to me I would loan you one, I have at least 3 or 4 of the large ones laying around.

1. 
   toolbear | Jan 20, 2007 05:37pm | #11

   For about $10 you should be able to go to your local rental yard and rent a Rigid pipe cutter.

   Thanks for the offer.  I will goggle the Rigid site.  The boss is not adverse to adding new tools if they make the work go better. The ToolBear

   "Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.

1. 
   maddog3 | Jan 20, 2007 05:59pm | #12

   maybe it's time to tell the boss you need a trencher...and ask him to again explain why fixing pipes that are a part of damaged and broken runs.is economical.

   .

   .

   .

   ?

1. 
   renosteinke | Jan 20, 2007 06:12pm | #13

   Gee, my "danger alarm" just went off. Twice. If the run is as corroded and broken as you say, it needs to be replaced. Period. If there are zinc "Bell" boxes in the ground, this is improper, and can be considered a code violation. Using a tubing cutter on a pipe containing wires is possible; however, that tool makes a huge, razor sharp burr in the end of the pipe. Make sure you have removed ALL of that burr before you reassemble the pipe. I really suspect you're well past the point of any "fix," and have a lot more digging in your future. If so, take the time to do it correctly, and not simply replace a failed installation with a copy. Materials need to be suitable for their environment, which includes corrosion resistance. Perhaps the new run ought to be of PVC. or at least rigid wrapped with pipe wrap tape. In place of zinc (or aluminum) boxes, proper handholes ought to be used. Keep in mind the limits on the number of bends; buried lines almost always seem to grossly exceed this.