Replies

1. 
   HeavyDuty | Apr 13, 2003 06:21am | #1

   Must be one big sink. Ususlly there is more than enough room to get a jigsaw in there. What do you guys use to do sink cut-outs?

   Tom

2. 
   IMERC | Apr 13, 2003 06:27am | #2

   Cut the sink hole from the bottom side.

   A router and up and a piolet bit work well.  Make a template from a piece of plywood at least 1/2" thick.

   Can't cut from the bottom. Bosch has a narrow foot for their SDS series jig saws. Use a down tooth blade.  

1. 
   Ronbaby | Apr 13, 2003 07:01am | #3

   Ive used a recip saw with a longer fine tooth cutting blade.....worked great.

1. 
   HeavyDuty | Apr 13, 2003 07:15am | #4

   Any problem with popping off the edge of the laminate?

   Tom

1. 
   Ronbaby | Apr 13, 2003 07:18am | #5

   no problems for me. Ive placed masking tape on the laminate.....drew my line on that and cut. The tape keeps it from chipping. You might get a little...but the sink flange has always covered it for me.

2. 
   groundhogx | Apr 13, 2003 07:26am | #6

   I'm about to cut for my sink, too, but I have a different problem. The cutout needs to be 21 1/2 inches deep, but the space between the stretchers for the cabinet is only 19 inches. Is my sink too big for the cabinet or is it okay to hack off a piece of each of the stretchers? Anybody had this experience before?

1. 
   JeffBuck | Apr 13, 2003 07:35am | #7

   hack away.

   JeffBuck Construction   Pittsburgh,PA

    Fine Carpentery.....While U Waite                  

2. 
   IMERC | Apr 13, 2003 07:41am | #9

   Have fun. Hack away.

3. 
   RalphWicklund | Apr 13, 2003 07:38am | #8

   90 percent of the battle is won if you can put your sink coutout where it's supposed to be. After determining the proper size of the cutout I mark the four corners on the face of the top and break out the 2 1/8 hole saw. Do each corner, from the top and finish from the bottom. (Just like drilling for a lockset). This gives a very nice radiused corner that's less likely to cause a stress crack when handled.

   Now it's connect the dots on the bottom from the outside of the big corner holes and cut to the line with a circular saw. Very fast and no chipping. This leaves a short uncut area by each hole, unless you are too aggressive and run the saw past the hole which leaves kerfs past the holes and causes the cutout to drop out prematurely which in turn could crack the face.

   Since the countertop is already upside down on spacers on both sides of the cutout area I then slip in a couple more spacers under the cutout for support and finish the cuts to the corners. If you really didn't care if there were kerfs on the bottom you could finish the cuts with the circular saw instead of plugging in the jig saw. And, if you go to the job prepared, you won't be trying to do your job balanced on top of a 30 gallon trash can.<G>

4. 
   toast953 | Apr 13, 2003 07:58am | #10

   Gaoler1, I've always cut from the top, masking tape, spade bit the corners, depending on how I'am feeling  I'll ethier use my skill saw, or not so lucky, I'll use my jig saw. If your counter top is not set, then I would pay close attention to where the back of face frame is, in relation to sink cut out. I don't consider my technique good or bad, but it works for me. Jim J

1. 
   toast953 | Apr 13, 2003 08:04am | #11

   Gaoler1, I also like to screw in some 1 5/8"  screws, in the cut out piece, to keep it from falling out on m. Jim J.

1. 
   KenHill3 | Apr 15, 2003 10:49am | #12

   JIm-

   Not sure if this is what you meant by the screws- What I do to keep the cutouts from falling is to drive screws into the saw kerf as I progress around, three or four screws is enough.

   Ken Hill

5. 
   steve | Apr 15, 2003 12:33pm | #13

   i've cut hundreds of sink holes in everything from postform tops to a couple of solid surface tops, wildest one was 1 1/2 solid maple!!.  If the sink didnt come with a template which is very unusual, i place the sink upsidedown on the top and trace it out.  Then just cut 1/2 to 3/4 inch inside the line depending on the clamp type.

   i always use a jigsaw with a new bimetal blade.  I satrt the cut by plunge cutting well inside the cutout area and cut following the line or if its a sink tracing, i use the shoe of my jigsaw as a spacer(on my dewalt its 5/8 inche from the blade to the shoe tip.

   most  stainless steel sinks here in canada are mounted with countertop left under the faucets so the cutout doesnt go near the back splash, if it does then the cut will have to be finished from underneath.  this is much easier if most of the material is removed first from on top

   never had a problem with chipping laminate, i always use a new blade and medium orbital action on the saw (cuts really fast!)

   two or three no8 screws into the kerf will stop the cutout breaking off near the end of the cut