Replies

1. 
   BossHog | May 08, 2007 08:12pm | #1

   I always used a plywood blade in a circular saw for cross cuts.

   For rips, you can score it with a utility knife, then bend and snap it.

   Never hit a man when he's down. You may find he's bigger than you when he gets up.

2. 
   PhillGiles | May 08, 2007 08:36pm | #2

   I was very pleased with the job a Dremel tool using "premium" sanding/grinding disks does on vinyl siding.  I've used it for cutting for a ledger (make sure you get some appropriate "J" to dress up the cut, just bond it on with caulk) and to terminate porch railing into the siding.

   I use a straight guide, like a paint stir-stick, 18" ruler, or even a yard-stick, with a couple of rubber bands on the ends to make it non-slip, to make straight cuts.  Use a crayon to pre-mark the cut.

   Oh, I wear a "chemical" mask when cutting vinyl with high-speed abrasive tools, I don't know if it's necessary; but, I figure that any fumes that smell that bad can't be good for you.

    

   Phill Giles

   The Unionville Woodwright

   
   

   ---

   Edited 5/8/2007 1:37 pm ET by PhillGiles

3. 
   dieselpig | May 09, 2007 01:13am | #3

   Blade in backwards works reasonably well.  Don't even bother trying with the blade in "proper".... it just grabs and tears.  Snips works ok.  Razor knife's alright for rips.

   View Image
4. 
   Stilletto | May 09, 2007 01:26am | #4

   Angle grinder with a metal cutting wheel works by far the best.  Especially in remodel situations where the vinyl may be a little fragile. 

   The wheels I use a close to an 1/8" thick.  The thicker wheels take too long. 

   "If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball."  Patches O'Hoolihan

1. 
   vintage1 | May 09, 2007 01:48am | #5

   Stilletto,

   Do you find this technique better/faster than the reverse plywood blade? 

   I am starting a window retro next week that will require some cutting of existing siding.  I have always used the plywood blade, so I am interested if there is a better way. 

   Do you find that the grinder stays true to the line or does it want to wander?  I would be concerned that it might grab and kick to the side, possibly damaging some adjacent siding.

   Also, does your setup cut faster than a circ. saw?

   Thanks, I'm always looking for a better way.

1. 
   Stilletto | May 09, 2007 02:01am | #6

   It works alot better than a circular saw,  no teeth on the blade to grab the siding.  It will stay true to the line if you go easy and let the wheel do the work. 

   Give me a few minutes and I'll put up a picture of my setup. 

   "If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball."  Patches O'Hoolihan

1. 
   dieselpig | May 09, 2007 02:03am | #7

   That's good to know.... never thought to use a grinder before.  Man when I first got a grinder, I got it to knock down some rust on a snowplow with a wire wheel.  I had no idea how handy those things are.  Seems I'm always finding another place to use it.View Image

1. 
   Stilletto | May 09, 2007 02:14am | #8

   I am always finding new ways to use my grinder.  It's a very valuable tool in the right hands. 

    

   "If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball."  Patches O'Hoolihan

2. 
   vintage1 | May 09, 2007 03:53am | #16

   DP,

   I had no idea how handy those things are.

   I agree, the first grinder that I bought went relatively unused other than to cut rebar or all-thread. 

   Now I use them for cutting/grinding tile,

   coping trim,

   scribing various materials,

   and now cutting vinyl siding.

   My list will keep growing.

3. 
   dieselpig | May 09, 2007 03:58am | #17

   With a shopvac and a grinder I removed all the grout in my kitchen (21' x 12') floor and it wasn't even that hard of a job!  I had dreaded it for months.  There wasn't even any clean up to do with the shopvac held behind the grinder the whole time.

   View Image

   Edited 5/8/2007 8:59 pm ET by dieselpig

2. 
   Stilletto | May 09, 2007 02:20am | #9

   Here are the pictures of my vinyl cutting setup,  I made the handle it cost $3 in parts but it's well worth it. 

   View Image

   It's just a piece of all thread bent at a 90 and a few nuts.  The plastic handle is the one that came stock. 

   Here is the view if you were using the tool,  blade on the left and pulling it towards you.  Make sure the guard is in the right position because the vinyl coming out will be hot.  Do not use it without the guard,  those wheels can shatter. 

   View Image

   I thought of the handle idea and gave it a shot,  it is awesome.  Someone needs to patent these things. 

    

   "If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball."  Patches O'Hoolihan

1. 
   dieselpig | May 09, 2007 03:10am | #10

   You really need to put the obligatory "Mike Smith Stunt Finger" in those pictures bro.  It's just not the same without it.View Image

1. 
   Stilletto | May 09, 2007 03:12am | #11

   I have to ask for his permission now.  Last time I didn't I woke up in a ditch, hog tied and beaten to a pulp.  That guy means business.  :) 

    

   "If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball."  Patches O'Hoolihan

2. 
   dieselpig | May 09, 2007 03:13am | #12

   Yeah he's no joke.  Stunt Finger don't f$ck around.  His co-defendant,  Stink Finger,  is even tougher.View Image

2. 
   vintage1 | May 09, 2007 03:48am | #14

   Stilletto,

   Thanks for the technique. 

   I love this place.  Every time I think I have something figured out, I end up learning a new/better way.  Although I haven't tried it yet, I am visualizing this and it seems that the grinder would be less likely to grab the siding and cause a chipout or crack. 

   I think that you would have to be careful following a line, but it is one more technique to add to the mental tool box.

    

1. 
   Stilletto | May 09, 2007 03:53am | #15

   It follows the line better when you pull the grinder to you with the blade on the left. 

   But you can try it and adapt it as you like.  A circular saw and an abrasive blade would work the same.  But heavier and the table usually marks up the siding. 

   "If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball."  Patches O'Hoolihan

2. 
   hipaul | May 09, 2007 05:17am | #18

   Thanks for the info, and thanks to all the other folks who responded.
   I ended up just cutting everything with a razor knife today. Stuck it right up in the joint and just pulled it right along. Came out real easy.
   I am jazzed to try the grinder technique though. I just picked one up for the first time. I've gone for years and years wondering what the hell everyone was crowing about with angle grinders and now I'm seeing that it's pretty much the unbeatable wonder tool. Everytime I think of something that's difficult with the tools I normally use, it seems that the angle grinder can do it faster and better.Paul

5. 
   Matt | May 09, 2007 03:27am | #13

   Since you will be removing the vinyl anyway so you can get the ledgers properly flashed and detailed, you can just cut it with a pair of snips.

   A tool like this helps a lot in removal and replacement of vinyl siding in the middle of a wall: http://malco.malcoproducts.com/products/siding-vinyl/srt2.asp

   I think they sell 'em at the big box.

   Also - I recommend you read the thread on deck collapse.

1. 
   hipaul | May 09, 2007 05:26am | #19

   Thanks for the tool tip.I happened to read the deck collapse thread this morning and felt bad for the folks involved, but pretty stunned at the whole thing.Luckily Oregon has some pretty heavy duty framing codes for decks, it can seem like a PITA sometimes, except when you think about the fact that some people will try and nail a ledger on. When I go to the permit office they always look heavily at the ledger detail and the railing post to header/joist detail. The new requirements for railing posts are pretty hardcore, and I pretty much go with lags at 16" o.c. for the ledger. Paul

1. 
   Matt | May 09, 2007 02:08pm | #20

   BTW - that tool is not only used for getting it off, but putting it back on too.  I can actually get vinyl siding "unzipped" with just a regular claw hammer, although that tool works a little better.  Getting it to re-zip is a little trickier, and that is where the tool really helps.

6. 
   peteduffy | May 09, 2007 03:35pm | #21

   Another reason to buy a Fein Multimaster!

   Pete Duffy, Handyman