I’m planning to build a low deck (24 in. above grade), and thought I’d ask if there are potential problems with three aspects:
Below-grade window wells: Any things to watch out for when the deck covers up basement window wells? Drainage issues, access for cleaning or maintenance?
Building over concrete steps: Any issues with the deck covering up existing concrete steps? Okay to rest the deck framing on the steps or better to span over them without direct contact?
Also, would pressure-treated deck boards look okay with a tinted light-colored semi-transparent stain? Or would foot-traffic wear and tear just create a mess?
Thanks in advance for your experiences and tips.
-Doug
Replies
For the window wells, I would close them in. If they are covered by the deck, there is no point to them, so I would fill them in with concrete block and cement them in.
If you are not familiar with pressure treated, you should find another option. PT is good for the frame but its terrible for the surface. I heard one person say when you build a PT deck, take a picture when you finish, because thats the best it will ever look. Call your local lumberyard and get some other options, you will always regret using PT. Ipe is my fav but check out mahogany too.
The most important thing with the deck is flashing it right and using the right fasteners.
I've power washed and sealed hundreds of pressure treated decks. You can make them look really nice if you wash and brighten them before sealing.
But that is always temporary. Also, pressure washing isn't the best thing for wood, it raises the grain. PT is junk wood with chemicals to get the longevity. It's an economy deck, certainly not something you want but rather something you settle for.
I agree that PT wood isn't the best out there, I would definitely go for cedar if the budget allows.
I disagree that powerwashing raises the grain of the wood if done properly. The deck in the pictures is 20 years old and has always been maintained with Cabot Clear Solution to keep it from drying out and cracking as well as just the moisture aspect of sealing the wood. One of my friends did the maintenance on it for the first 12 years and I have kept it up for the last 8. All that is required is a light wash with deckwash (or TSP and bleach) followed by an application of acid based brightener (I prefer Cabot brand). There is no raised grain and the surface looks as good as many decks that are less than 5 years old. We do this deck every other year even though it still beads water at that point but it keeps the wood from getting too dry and forming surface cracks.
our house came with a beat old PT deck.
been here over 10 yrs. First time really scrubbed and instead of just clear sealer we went with a blue color stain for the deck and solid color stain / white for the rails and stairs.
took a coupla coats ... looked fantastic.
Gotta get out there again this year ... will be the 3rd major recoat.
3rd recoat ... in the 10 yrs we've lived here ... and the deck was already worn when we moved in.
can't ask for more than that from any product.
and personally ... I'm a fan of a well maintained PT deck.
Ipe is nice when ya put it down ... and hell to finish.
and plastic looks and feels like plastic, to me.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
An inspector would take issue with a basement window well being covered if it is intended to be used as an egress point for a basement bedroom.
I would be wary of using concrete steps to support a deck unless I was absolutely sure of the footing for the steps or if they were pinned to the foundation.
One thing I like to do on low decks is roll out landscaping fabric and an inch or two of gravel on top of that. It keeps animals and pests from borrowing under the deck and weeds and vines from growing in places that you can't access later.
-Day
Window well: if you want to keep the well as is, cover this area with galvanized screen so it does not attract nesting animals. Cover entire space under the deck with screen so the fall leaves will not blow in. Do the framing so that about 30x30 inches of floor becomes a hatch for access. The floor can be fastened with screws for easier removal. You don't have to have a hinged hatch.
Concrete: This is not in the order of installation. Cover concrete with weatherization membrane. Use anchor bolts. I don't know how long the concrete screws will last. Use either sleepers or lay the frame member directly on concrete, scribing as necessary. There were some articles in recent FHB about this. Also, use fasteners that will not corrode with new chemicals in pt wood, or separate the wood from metals with membranes.
Stain: Is the deck in sunny or shaded area? Under a tree? Sunny will keep the deck most clean. If budget allows, use engineered deck flooring. Framing and rails can be PT. Use 2x wood for floor, 5/4 x6 will cup and warp more. Any stain or treatment will wear out with traffic and weather. Research this forum for recommendations. I tried oil based semi transparent stain for my front door deck. It dried very quickly sothat there are overlap and brush marks. I may have did it on a hot day. It did not last very long under the foot traffic. I would use it, though, if you must have color. Try solid stain for posts and rails and penetrating treatment (not stain) for the floor. Wash and treat as recommended to keep it clean. Low cost power washer would help. Hope this helps.
I would close in the windows rather then risk a potential problem in the future, problems may be un-likely but closing them in would be inexpensive now.
PT decking is going to look bad no matter how much stain you put on it.
I would span the stairs rather then bare on them if I wasn't sure what the footings are under it. If it's on a full footing below frost line you can saftely rest on them, if not and they settle or heave the whole deck moves as well.
Steps
If there is a landing up top and the deck is to be at a level above the landing.
I frame around the landing and cut sloped sleepers out of PT wood rated for ground contact and glued them down with polyurthane construction adhesive to the landing.
Wallyo
common problems with decks added are method of attachment to house allows water ingress and rot to main structure, also poor4 attachment allows failure and falls/personal injury.
Beams at perimeter not notched to posts but side saddled with bolts or lags only also fail and cause personal injuries.
Most common PT lumber now is ACQ and the copper it contains causes early corrosion of fasteners unless stainless steel or double hot dipped galvanized approved for corrosion resistance in ACQ. Previous fastening techniques from CCA days means early failure of decks when fasteners rust through within months.
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Thanks everyone for your suggestions.
K1c: good suggestion about galvanized screening in the window wells to keep out critters.
Restorationday: the window wells are not for egress, but that's a good call.
Piffin: I like the notched post construction, and am also thinking of a ledger for notched joists rather than joist hangers.
Everyone: I'll spring for stainless fasteners and be conscientious about flashing. Most of you warn against PT deck boards, so I'll consider cedar, but Trex or ipe are just too far out of the budget.
Thanks again.
-Doug
Use the local "Call before you dig" service before you design. Are you on a septic system?
Know your local regs. They vary from suburb to suburb here (Raleigh, NC). For instance, one local municipality severely limits any deck cantilever.
Spend some time under the house knowing where your carriage bolts are going to penetrate.
Flashing, flashing, flashing.
On a 2' high deck, I would probably build steps on all the open faces instead of rails. It looks nicer from both inside the house and the yard; you have visibility from the house & deck; you don't have to build rails (most of which are ugly); and you don't have to slather it with some trellis (all of which are ugly).
If you're covering a spigot, know how you're going to extend it. I've done a few and that needed a shut off valve.
As others have said, don't rest on the steps; make sure you know if the window wells are required egress.
If you do cover the window wells, it might be worth the double framing and installing a "trap door" over each for access in the future - or not. (Just thinking about broken windows, replacement, etc.) Those trap doors will be ugly, though.
If you have to through-bolt a lot of stuff, borrow an impact wrench.