Replies

1. 
   ClaysWorld | Aug 31, 2004 08:53pm | #1

   Sounds like your gonna be making shingles out of the face stock maybe like mimicking the  pattern of the deck boards? But are you going to have enough stock if you rip it and layer it like siding? Or maybe the carpenter is going to wait for payment until the new stock arrives or maybe you could rip all the joist  to smaller dimension and span shorter or oh boy to much coffee.

    It's not how many mistakes you make, it's how fast and how well you remedy them.

2. 
   DanH | Aug 31, 2004 10:02pm | #2

   Notch in the ends of the joists (if possible) and set a piece of 1x3 or 1x4 so it will be BEHIND the fascia and lapping it at the bottom by an inch or so.

1. 
   rickyw | Aug 31, 2004 11:53pm | #3

   Don't really understand what you mean Dan, can you explain a little more?

1. 
   DanH | Sep 01, 2004 05:32pm | #5

   What I mean, if you're covering joist ends, is to notch the bottom corner of the joist so something like a 1x3 fits neatly into the notch, then apply the fascia over. The bottom edge of the 1x3 will hide the bottom corner of the joist and give a stepped look.

   However, it occurs to me that this won't work (without major notching) on a side where the fascia must go flush against the side of the joist.

   So plan B is similar to what Homewright suggests:

   Assuming your decking has been cut to be flush with the inside face of the fascia, rip some more decking (or something of similar thickness and profile) to produce something about 1 to 1.5" wide. Attach this to the cut edge of the decking (countersunk deck screws work well here), then attach the 3/4" fascia below it.

3. 
   Homewright | Sep 01, 2004 12:03pm | #4

   Have you already set the decking and cut the edges flush to the outside band or is this still in the building process?  You can always use a band of the flooring at the joint of the cut ends of the decking and create a stacked look for your finish detail.  Cut the decking with about a 5 degree bevel where the point of the bevel runs a little proud of the rim then apply the deck board where the point of the bevel meets against the roundover edge of the decking board.  Then just rip your skirt board to fill the remainder of the void.

   If you've already cut the decking flush to the rim, you might consider doing some ripping on a table saw with the decking stock and see if you can create a trim detail you'd like.  Something along the line of an outside corner cap where the edge slips over the cut ends of the decking and rides down the face of the band enough to cover the gap in your skirt stock.  I'd apply the skirt stock first keeping it flush to the bottom of the band then apply the cap to cover all sins and afterthoughts.  If you're doing this for yourself and your labor is secondary, you could always route a rabbet along the top edge of the decking to the depth of this cap's thickness for a good joint.   You might want to do all this on a hot day to be working with the stock at its maximum swelling stage for better long term results.  We've recently been incorporating a gap in all joinery to allow for the expansion/contraction component of the materials on our decks and so far it's making a big difference in how clean the look remains over time.

4. 
   dIrishInMe | Sep 01, 2004 08:15pm | #6

   Here are a couple of pics for you...

   Personally, I think the "2 stage look" looks better than 1 wide board.  The PT framing on this deck was 2x10.  In the first pic, the PT lumber you see is a (ripped) 1x4 that acts as a spacer.  The fasica boards I was using were 1st: 1x8 and then a 1x6.  The material is trex, and the boards have an actual thickness of .75".
    

   Matt

   
   

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   Edited 9/1/2004 1:19 pm ET by DIRISHINME