Helping daughter build deck in No. VA (DC). Read everything in this forum on the corrosion problems w/ galvanized, etc. Concluded that the best thing that doesn’t cost a fortune is as follows:
1) Stainless nails, where they don’t contact galvanized.
2) Simpson ZMax fittings w/ their appropriate nails. Caveat – use 30# felt between fittings & ACQ lumber. Checked McFeely’s for stainless fittings, and cost was prohibitive. $60 plus for the SS post bases.
3) Composite decking held down w/ hidden fastener system.
Now the question – Fairfax County code requires that rim joists be held to the floor joists w/ 5 – 3″ screws into the end grain. What is the experience w/ Evercote screws that are supposed to be ACQ rated? I suspect the best choice is more SS.
Don
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That is an insane prescription unless they spec the shear strength also Don. Hangers and toenails do a far better job of holding that together unless you have structural screws at least #10 x 3"
I don't know the product ytou mention, but I would use the GRK Canada stainless.
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Check this link. This would be a better solution to keeping the hangers from contacting the ACQ. Its more money but certainly won't break the bank and is a much better option than felt.
http://www.graceathome.com/pages/downloads/TP_121.pdf
http://www.graceathome.com/pages/decking.htm
Don
If you arte talking about what is shown here,
http://www.co.fairfax.va.us/dpwes/publications/decks/
That is not "code". That is only a listing of details, which if used, meet code. You can have a copy of that on site and that is your "detailed drawings".
Now it appears that they only took there several year old details and added the required for all hardware to be SS or heavy HDG.
It would not hurt to ask if the coated screws would be acceptable or you could come up with alternate details.
Options would be to do solid blocking between the joist. That is the whole purpose of those screws is to prevent overturning the joist.
Or making the beam the "rim joist" and using hangers.
Or just joist hangers on the rim joist. Don't know what the lenght of the nails are, but I think that some will show through and might require a double rim joist or 1 by cover board. Specially nice of the deck is to be cedar or composite and you can cover up the ACQ SYP structure.
But if you do any of that then you need to draw out all of the details of the deck and right up the specs, etc.
Bill: WE have the print outs of the Fairfax detail sheets. Inspector came out this AM & told us our holes were a work of art. Should be - we used an auger to bore them. Got foggy when we started asking questions about attaching the rim joist. We will attack problems as they come up. First we have to get the footings in for the posts. That's this afternoon.Got a lot of arm waving when we asked about using joist hangers for putting on the rim joist. Piffin thinks that would be considerably stronger than a bunch of 3" screws in endgrain. I agree. Face it - the inspector holds all the cards in the trump suit. He won't approve hangers, we use screws. Piffin suggested using Canadian squaredrive SS. I like it. It's not much additional money when you look at the total cost of the deck. We charge our time at $.10 per hour, and at that we are overpaid. We can sink the extra $$ in SS screws.Building this deck is a hoot - three engineers (1-electrical & 2 civil) trying to do a construction job. We are lucky we get anything done!Thanks for the help.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
Those GRK screws are Torx drive, not square drivers. Much better resistance to camout or stripping.So if they require screws, GRK has lag headed ones too. Those I would trust!
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Thanks. I will look up those screws tomorrow. Sound like what we want.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!