Replies

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Jun 17, 2003 07:07am | #1

   Probably the best finish for this deck would be PC-3x21 with 80 grit, apply as needed.

   edit:  My apologizies... I see you're new here...welcome.  I think you'll find that there is not a durable clear finish for exterior use.  Maybe you could use some of the pour-on acrylic bartop finish, but that's not practical.  A pigmented finish (aka paint) would be durable and would build thickness...nah, it woiuld chip and look like look cheap.  I still like my original idea of belt sanding the boards.  Where are you?

   Do it right, or do it twice.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 6/17/2003 12:11:34 AM ET by ELCID72

1. 
   step412 | Jun 18, 2003 04:42am | #3

   Thanks for the reply. I'm in Detroit, MI (suburb). I had previiously been told to use a palm-nailer to sink the nails as deep as possible, and then sand. I would prefer to spray/roll/brush on a finish or sealant of some sort. Any other ideas? Anyone? Thanks in advance.

   Edited 6/17/2003 9:43:50 PM ET by step412

1. 
   diddidit | Jun 18, 2003 04:44am | #4

   Sand, seal (top and bottom) with marine epoxy, spar varnish annually. Of course, it would be cheaper to just replace the deck boards every decade...

   didUnencumbered by knowledge or fear...

1. 
   step412 | Jun 18, 2003 06:25am | #7

   Unfortunately (read: fortunately), it's a two-level 850 sq. ft. deck with oblique angle cuts abound. I just had an in-ground pool installed and don't have the resources to replace all of the deck boards. It actually looks great after the mildew is washed off; it's just that it needs a finish to cover the splinters that the youngsters pick-up when they drag their feet as they walk. Thanks.

2. 
   FastEddie1 | Jun 18, 2003 06:01am | #6

   Do you already own a palm nailer and compressor?  It's a neat tool, but may not be the solution here.  First, it will leave a pretty good size dent in the wood.  If the nails are already sunk, just sand anyway, you probably won't go that deep.  And if you find an occassional high nail, smack it down...use a drift pin or nail set and save some money.

   If you have splinters, nothing you can spray, roll or brush on is going to make them go away.  One of the trex-type mfgrs now offers an overlay product, 1/4"x6" (nom) that is designed for your problems.  Supposedly you nail or screw it over the old ugly broads...no wait that's my ex-wife...I meant old ugly boards.  Flipping the boards and re-nailing is an option.  Or if you're going to pull the boards up, buy a thickness planer (HD and Lowes have them) and run all the boards through to take off 1/32" or 1/16".  'Course then you'll need to buy a router to ease the edges...just another tool...  Or buy a portable planer...I think Ryobi has one for less than $100...and work over the boards in place...and for this you need to be sure the nails are set.

   Do it right, or do it twice.

1. 
   step412 | Jun 18, 2003 06:29am | #8

   I actually do own a palm nailer and compressor. From the few nails that I tried to "set" with it, there was no real dents to speak of. I would just rather not get into such a nailing/sanding job if there is a better way to keep the splinters down. Thanks for the reply!  

2. 
   dtaylor137 | Jun 17, 2003 08:23am | #2

   Pull the boards up, turn them upside down, and put them back down.

   Dave

   If a tree falls in the woods and nobody hears it is it still lumber?

3. 
   xMikeSmith | Jun 18, 2003 05:57am | #5

   nothing is going to last..
   SYP  PT should never be used for decking.. it's too grainy and loves to check and splinter.. once it starts it will just get worse..

   lots of wood are better.. alaskan cedar, merante', ipr'..

    and the synthetics are great.. we use a lot of Trex

   Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore