Some deck information desired here. We do interiors in NYC and plead ignorance when the occasional exterior deck job comes around, in this case it’s my own house in Queens. Here’s the deal: I’m planning on excavating about 12′ x 15′ x 7′ deep at the rear of the house, creating storage space accessed from the existing below grade basement door. The new space will have an area drain, but will be capped by a wooden deck ( room for a couple of chairs, grill, etc.). I want to keep water out of the new storage space, but use standard decking and shed all water at the same time. Can you advise: is there a standard method of providing for drainage between the cedar decking and what I guess would be either a bituthane membrane on plywood, or a poured concrete on corrugated decking substrate? Am I clear on this? Throw me a bone, people.
Thanks in advance,
Evista in Queens
Replies
Check an article in FHB #113 about building over living space. I think the author works in NYC.
I have made and installed aluminum gutter pans between the deck joists before that carry the water out to a gutter on the leading edge of the deck. It works very well but is a bit time consuming. I think that there is now a company that produces something similar in vinyl. Good luck.
Evista,
I can tell you what my mom did on her house and maybe it will be relevant to your situation. Background- ranch house on a sloped lot, wanted a deck out the back (90' x 20'). Built perimeter walls of brick to elevation of main floor. Covered with corrugated steel on steel bar joists and poured regular concrete on top. Access door in one of the perimeter walls to use as a storage shed. Used it as it was for a few years and then had it surfaced with an epoxy type exposed aggregate. Looks great (her mandate) and maintenence free (husbands mandate). House is for sale now (Conyers GA) Great empty nester.
http://www.dryspace.cc/ check it out!
Thanks for the tips, I'll check out the issue and this product. No use re-inventing the wheel if I don't have to.
Hey let me know how it works! If you use it, i never have . It seems like a good Idea."I was born in the country, razed in the city, I'm a natural born shaker from my hips to the ground"
Hi Evista.
Jaldren gave you some good advice. Pour a concrete slab overtop and then deck it.
With the right cement ratio mix ( consult your local concrete suppliers), your finished slab can actually already be waterproof when cured. Also, they make various paintable "membranes" that are waterproof... expoxy paint as a waterproofer is just one kind that comes to mind, but there are others, such as acrylics; again ask your concrete supplier.
Yes, you can install an epdm over top of the concrete slab for added protection if you like. The cost of the epdm (40 mil) will run you around $200-$300 for material only. (KWIK PLY epdm ) I would forego this in favor of applying a paintable acrylic waterproofer instead. Stay away from the stone aggregate...which is combined with an acrylic binder....if you live in a cold weather climate. The stone type will eventually crack and cause you problems.
Once your concrete deck is down, place sleepers on top, and then install your decking on to the sleepers. The sleepers can be attached to concrete via mastic. If installing a epdm covering, sleepers can simply lie on top. Put down extra strips of epdm material underneath each sleeper to guard against rubbing holes. Cleats nailed around deck wall perimeter will keep deck from moving.
Yes, you could also install a plywood top instead of going the concrete top route.
With a plywood top, I would most definately go the epdm covering route and then deck over top of this same as I would for a concrete top[.
I don't like gutter pans...that's more of a retro fit job for existing deck structures.
IMHO, concrete may cost the most, but in long run, should also last the longest.
LOL.
Davo
Thanks, Davo. It looks like I've got more than one viable option. Someone even suggested steel decking with PVC modular decking, etc., etc. I'll consider all options.
Evista