Replies

1. 
   GCourter | Oct 14, 2004 10:44pm | #1

   Used that system on a 2000+ sq ft deck, loved the product.  I had 2x6 cedar.  I understand that they make screws FOR composite decking.

1. 
   normite | Oct 14, 2004 11:52pm | #2

   Wow! I didn't see that on the website.. I'll look a little closer.. 2000 sq/ft huh?! That was one big deck! Must of had a sore arm after that one!

1. 
   Duey | Oct 16, 2004 04:59am | #3

          I used a similar product on two decks that I built. Both were composite decking, one was Trex(excellent product) the other an off-brand from Menard's. It was called Shadow-track and sounds the same as what you are describing. Part of it is nailed to the top of the joist and you put your screws up through the other part. I liked it a lot as it gives the deck surface a perfect look. It can be a bit of a pain on decks that are low to the ground but if the deck is up high enough so you can actually work from underneath it is not too bad. Make sure you don't strip the screws; you can set the torque on your drill with fairly good success on composite decking(unlike wood.)

           If it comes in colors get one as close to your decking color as possible, or go darker. Galvanized will tend to jump out at you through the gaps. One other thing, it is more time-consuming than running screws from the top into the joist. I also have a little bit of doubt about whether or not it's as strong as running screws down from the top. On both of the ones I did I had 16" joist spacing and tried to get three screws into each deck-board. So far no problems!

                                                                                            Duey

2. 
   MojoMan | Oct 16, 2004 02:32pm | #4

   I used Deckmaster once on a composite deck. The clean look from above was fantastic. As Duey said, the galvanized strips do shine through the cracks some, but I'm guessing that will fade as the material ages and gets dirty.

   Anticipate some repetitive-stress pain from all that screwing in funny positions. I could stand below on the ground, so it was probably the best possible position. Working from above must be torture. I think Deckmaster recommends an angle drill (Milwaukee or Souix?).

   Are you using an ACQ frame? I worry about all that galvanized steel in contact with the PT lumber. I painted everything with linseed oil when I was done.

   Al Mollitor, Sharon MA

1. 
   mikerooney | Oct 16, 2004 02:48pm | #5

   I did one that was only 12" off the ground.

   I used a pneumatic "butterfly" impact wrench w/ a 3/8" drive magnetic socket that takes standard 1/4" bits. 

1. 
   davidmeiland | Oct 16, 2004 05:15pm | #6

   I saw a deck recently with concealed fasteners... the black plastic ones that I believe slip into a biscuit slot in each piece. The deck builder had used 3/4" Ipe and the shiny black plastic was only about 3/8" from the surface. Nice and clean, yes, but if you look straight down you see millions of shiny black clips. Ugh. I'd only do it with thick decking, probably not even 5/4 but go to 2x. Plus, all the water migrating into those biscuit slots and sitting there.

3. 
   Isamemon | Oct 16, 2004 10:03pm | #7

   Is the deckamster system ( brackets and screws)  rated for the new pressure treated

1. 
   MojoMan | Oct 17, 2004 01:05am | #8

   I think Deckmaster is available in both galvanized and stainless. To play it safe with ACQ, the stainless would be better, but plan on the additional expense.

   Al Mollitor, Sharon MA

2. 
   briank | Oct 17, 2004 01:13am | #9

   According the Deckmaster website, the brackets and screws are ACQ compatible.

1. 
   mikerooney | Oct 17, 2004 01:21am | #10

   I don't use brackets or biscuits, just angle up through the joist. 

1. 
   normite | Oct 17, 2004 05:08am | #11

   Actually, Deckmaster only comes in powder coat or stainless steel now which makes it compatible with ACQ PT.