Densshield with Kerdi Shower base for shower
Anyone figured out how to use Densshield in a shower? I’d love to avoid using kerdi board at $100 a sheet and use Densshield at $25 a sheet instead. Will running the kerdi a few inches onto the Densshield create a waterproof bond?, or am I just asking for trouble?
Already using Densshield for tub surrounds, works awesome.
Replies
I'd call schluter tech support. Ask them how much of an overlap you need between Kerdi and a tile back board like Denshield to get a watertight seam.
Kerdi generally requires a 2" thinsetted overlap when seaming the product to itself, so it's probably the same. For a warm and fuzzy you can go 3".
Ok, finally did my first DensShield, RedGuard and Kerdi mash-up shower. Unfortunately lost the pictures.
Used DensShield on the walls.
Used Kerdi pre-formed pan and curb, and covered the pan and curb with kerdi, and used the Kerdi Drain assembly.
Used green fiberglass tape and thinset on DensShield joints. Let that cure and then painted those joints with two coats of RedGuard.
On my next project, I will attempt to not use any of the inside and outside Kerdi corner pieces as that causes unnecessary bulging at the corners of the curb. This is especially troublesom for shower glass install. You go to tremoundous lengths to make sure the framing is straight, only to have these small pieces cause a bow in your perfectly straight wall. I am thinking of using green fiberglass tape, thinset and RedGuard as a subsitute in these applications, the bulge is negligible.
Would love to know if anyone is doing this as well.
mud and hydroban
Sloped mud base (for custom footprint) or a preformed tray if you want to go that route with either a Laticrete flanged drain or Kerdi flanged drain set in the mud. Laticrete drains a a little less expensive.
Cement board (Durock usually) on the walls.
Hydroban the walls and floor.
I did exactly that in a house i built for myself a few years ago. I taped up the corners of the Densshield with thinset and Kerdi about 3' from the floor and taped the walls to the foam base the same way. I agree with you completely about the buildup. Far better to do it with mesh.
I built my own door (red cedar, splined joints, polyurethane glue, 1/8" polycarbonate glazing) so I wasn't concerned about fitting glass later but the buidup in the corners made it harder to do a nice flat tile job on the walls.
Ron