HELP!!!! Does that sound desparate enough to get your attention? Here’s my situation. Trying to correct a problem with the drain-line for my second floor shower. Working from the first floor, I was cutting out the existing line with a sawzall. Making the last cut, close to where the line connects to the 3 piece foor drain in the shower, and the elbow snaps!
So here’s what I have now. The three piece shower floor drain connects to a short length of 2″ PVC, which connects to a (now broken) 90 degree elbow. the other half of that 90 degree elbow is on the drain line that snapped off. I can cut off the broken elbow, but that will only leave me with about 1/4″ or less of 2″ PVC protruding from the floor drain – not enough to glue a new elbow on.
I have a horrible sinking feeling in my gut that I’m screwed here… Which would be pretty bad news. We just finsished with installation of a custom built, walk-in shower with tile floor and walls. I don’t see how that floor drain can be replaced without having to demo the whole tile job…
I need a miraclle. Anybody got any ideas?
Replies
FERNCO'S
If you don't know what they are, they're little, rubber miracle workers that can fix almost any drain/vent dilema. It's hard for me to picture your situation, but is there any possibility you can get a Fernco on that? They do make Fernco elbows. I'm sure you could find something for your situation that could patch that properly (from Depot or Lowes)
are you talking about the rubber sleeves (and elbows, and wyes, etc.) they sell with a compression clamp on them? clamping on to less than 1/4" makes me nervous - especially if that drain ever has to be snaked...
or do you have something else in mind?
Correct, I was talking about those "rubber sleeves" with the screw clamps. A quarter inch is pretty thin, BUT, you can still relocate the screw clamp a hair higher so that it catches that skimpy quarter inch. You could also use some type of strong glue to help hold it together. For example, smear the glue on the top lip of the Fernco then install it, tighten the clamp, brace it with something like wood (for extra insurance) then let it sit overnight before continuing on with the operation.
Check the shower drain from the top side, some have a ring you can losen to alow the pipe to be taken out.
not that i can see - it doesn't appear to be the case
plumbbill,
Any answer?
Fisher1009,
Is there any room to maneuver a saw or cutting tool into the area and slice the remaining part of the elbow into smaller segments and break it free of the 2" pipe?
I have had to remove elbows this way when working in the field after hours and had no option as I couldn't get parts.
Cut the remaining piece off just above the start of the turn , then slice the socket with vertical cuts and break the pieces away by using a chisel driven between the pipe and the elbow.
Carefully done it does work.
"Poor is not the person who has too little, but the person who craves more."...Seneca
Edited 6/9/2007 7:32 pm by dovetail97128
yes - this is what i was just starting to think of trying.... now- question is, can i re-cement a new elbow on where the old one was, or should i just go with a "fernco" rubber sleeve as mike suggests... when i'm done, this will be buried under drywall
Fisher,
I would feel better if Plumbbill agreed (I am not a plumber), but yes I think reglueing is a perfectly workable solution. I have done it in waste lines with no problem. Not sure I would do the same for a pressure line however.Might try a Dremel cutting tool if you have one, just be careful with whatever you use so as to not cut the pipe itself if at all possible. Hacksaw if you have enough access also works.
"Poor is not the person who has too little, but the person who craves more."...Seneca
Edited 6/9/2007 7:58 pm by dovetail97128
Yes you can re-glue a fitting. Waste & pressure fittings can be re-glued once the pipe has been removed.
I would be carefull not to score the fitting too much.
ABS is more foregiving than PVC on these applications---- easier to pry out if using the scoring method.
Here's a bit of a trick--- if the glue is too runny then you can crush up a styrofoam cup into the glue & make it thicker & it will fill gaps that way.If you don't stand behind the troops, why don't you try standing in front of them. Bumper sticker
Bill,
Thanks for the tip , I will remember that one.
"Poor is not the person who has too little, but the person who craves more."...Seneca
OK, main problem is pvc floor drain has a 1/4" of pipe sticking out & you need to be able to connect to that.
Is that correct?
I'm guessing that it is a glue in floor drain ( solvent weld).
Do you have access directly below the drain?
If so you can use a Rambit¯ from Pasco
Here is a PDF file from Pasco sorry about the 4.1 meg size
http://pascospecialty.com/catalog/PASCO_CATALOG_C.pdf
It drills out the pipe from the fitting.
If you don't stand behind the troops, why don't you try standing in front of them. Bumper sticker
Similar to a Pipe Shredder?
http://www.rectorseal.com/index.php?site_id=1&product_id=145
Yes but a lot cheaper, not sure about price but the tool from pasco is a 3 or 4 time shot then throw it away.
The Rector-seal one is a tool that has some longevity to it.
If you don't stand behind the troops, why don't you try standing in front of them. Bumper sticker
Edited 6/9/2007 7:48 pm ET by plumbbill
Plumbbill-
I was able to chip off the rest of the old elbow. i used some sand paper to knock off any rough edges. i can dry fit a new 2" elbow on their just fine. would you recommend that i move forward like that, or do i need to spring the $ for the pasco tool and bore out the whole thing?
i appreciate your advice! thanks alot
OK so you got the elbow off & you have plenty of pipe there to go all the way into the socket of a new elbow?
If so then yes you can put a new elbow on that pipe------ glue is cheap, leaks are expensive.
I would take the dobber & glue the lip of the joint after it's put together a few times for added insurance.If you don't stand behind the troops, why don't you try standing in front of them. Bumper sticker
thanks a million! really appreciate it
yes, you understood the situation correctly. thanks for the link. if i can't chip off the rest of the elbow, then i'll probably give that method a try.
I would agree with the last guy; score and break / cut off the pieces of the broken elbow from the pipe stub; file any bumps on the pipe stub flat; prime it well to smooth it out, and glue on a new elbow (or "sweep" as a long-turn elbow is called.)
Good excuse to buy a Multimaster!
Forrest - been there; done that; not a problem
Cut off the elbow leaving the hub of the elbow. Get a hole saw that cuts a center the dia. of the inside of the pipe. Next find a hole saw the outside dia. of the pipe and use the "plug" to guide the larger saw blade to remove the elbow hub. Now use the fernco elbow.
Cut the socket of the ell parallel to the pipe in several places and use wood chisels to remove it. With care, you can keep the pipe intact. Then use 80 grit sandpaper to smooth the pipe enough to fit a new ell on.
And, yes, I have done this.