Wondering if anyone has used the new DeWalt tracksaw. Would like to know if it is similar to festool saw of similar design.
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I tried the cordless model at a tradeshow and it was just as advertised. Using a thin kerf blade and a sturdy rail system is a good combination. The Dewalt fits on the festool track, just coincidence?
Lot's of posts about it. Here's a search for 'Tracksaw"
http://forums.taunton.com/n/main.asp?qu=tracksaw&webtag=tp-breaktime&ctx=search&cl=632358&af=10000&o=relevance&be=0
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I was about to go and have a look at one the other day until I found out it had a proprietary 6 1/2 inch blade that cost $60. I would have been fine using a regular $8 blade to rip plywood, but at $60 there is no way I am going to buy that saw.
Man that's pricey. Even the Festo blades only run about 40 dollars.Steve
Yeah, but they're yellow.
Keith- Brad McFarland ...a DeWalt Top17 finalist ...the yellow shirt guy, had a video posted on You tube. I will try to get him in here and reply. We each received a track saw..but I never was able to apply it to my project. Everyone that did loves it.
Stan
Thanks all for the replies. I think the DeWalt is backordered in various places. Not sure if the blade price is a deal breaker.
Don't let it stop you. Track saws are worth every penny. So much you can do with them that is nearly impossible to do with a lesser solution.Steve
such as....????
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Dunno if the ez guide qualifies as a track saw, but with those standup clamps, I can cut very thin tapered cabinet fillers pretty easily. I can do it with a shooting board, but is a real pain.I've used the festool a few times, and it didn't seem like it would do that as well...but, the festool is a way more accurate tool for about anything else.http://www.tvwsolar.com
Now you see this one-eyed midget
Shouting the word "NOW"
And you say, "For what reason?"
And he says, "How?"
And you say, "What does this mean?"
And he screams back, "You're a cow
Give me some milk
Or else go home"
Nice house you built there snort. I wish I could be involved in projects like that on a day to day basis.
Thanks, I wish it was an everyday thing, too ;-)http://www.tvwsolar.com
Now you see this one-eyed midget
Shouting the word "NOW"
And you say, "For what reason?"
And he says, "How?"
And you say, "What does this mean?"
And he screams back, "You're a cow
Give me some milk
Or else go home"
Cutting a perfect shim 8'long 1/4" on one end and 1/16 on the other.
Hell, I do that every time I try to saw a perfect 1/4" on both ends (G)Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
That's why you need the brand spankin Who's-A-maWhat'sit.
It comes with the optional Thing-A-MaBob.
That is easy to do with a shooting bd or the EZ track. I was wanting to know what this thing can do that is impossible with any other tool or system.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Nothing is impossible (as you know). Are you actually saying the PIFFIN doesn't
have a Festo saw?! I know for a fact you've read through thousands of threads
on these things, so I can't imagine what I could add.
Thats what I was thinking, only I consider the EZ a track saw also.
Love the EZ but it is not like it is making the impossible possible! Some things a track saw does more efficiantly than other methods, but I managed to do quite well without one for about 25 years before purchasing one.
That 8' ¼" x 1/16" shim can be made with a shootboard or a table saw just as fast and accurately as a track saw.
No, it's the "just as fast and as accurately" that isn't
true.
I'll take a moment to say I'm just playing devils advocate here. Where are you going to find that perfectly straight zero clearance shooting board? Of course one could take the time to make ones own, but now your talking about a homemade tracksaw :)
I suppose the plunge feature is worth considering also.
and then there is the consistent zero clearance on the bevel... No, I'm afraid these new toy's very defiantly have a place of there own. Yet, I do agree it all can be done in other less convenient ways.
"I was wanting to know what this thing can do that is impossible with any other tool or system."
Why does it have to do the impossible to be a good valuable tool? I can pound in finish nails with a rock if I so choose, but I prefer to use a nail gun. Just because a nail gun doesn't do the impossible doesn't mean it's not a better tool than a rock. Vic
"Why does it have to do the impossible to be a good valuable tool? "Doesn't to be valuable. it is probably a great tool system.I was just challenging the statememnt because somebody made the claim that it will do what is impossible otherwise. I figured if that is the case, I want to know about it.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Piffin, My track saw (festool ts 55) does the near impossible, in site ripping large sheet laminate. A few weeks ago I installed a 21' counter top in a study, full length of the wall, I had a 60" x 144" sheet that I needed to rip into 2@ 23 5/8", 2@ 4", 2@ 3/4" and 2@ 1 1/2". Add it up and I had 5/8" scrap. I will argue that only a rail saw would make those cuts with the precision necessary. Add to the issue they were made in less than 30 min. Also the roil allows you to make perfect butt joints in laminate with out any other jig it is invaluable to counter top fitters.thanks Craig
I'll believe that one! Good point.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I had the EZ system and use it with a Milwaukee tilt-lock 7 1/4" saw.I modified the milwaukee dust port to allow a vac hookup and did Dino's trick of using some heavy clear mylar around the front of the blade to help with the dust collection. After the mods - it actually cut pretty darn much dust free with a vac attached.It was a much better setup than the previous guide rail system I had which was one of the wide pro-8footer "clamp" rail and a UHMWPE sled for mounting the saw on.Had I not got a screamin deal on a new Festool 55 setup, I'd still be telling you how handy the EZ system was... but now that I have the Festool setup, the differences are clearer.First off - the blades are better than any blades I could find for a standard 7 1/4" circ saw. BUT - I didn't go ahead a buy a Forest 7 1/4 blade - so that would have equalized that I'm sure...The EZ saw mounting plate is a pain to mount the saw perfectly square - although now maybe he has changed it to have some adjustment.The Festool saw cuts PERFECTLY 90 degrees, and sometimes you need it to be perfect; it does it.The fact that it plunges means you can stop sawing and set it down IMMEDIATELY. With other saws on the EZ, you have to wait till the blade stops and than set it down carefully cause the blade is exposed (the guard cannot be in use while the saw is mounted on the EZ sled.Even with a saw with a brake - it's still a pain when trying to work fast. And without a brake, it means 5 or so seconds after each cut that you have to wait.With the Festool - no worries or waiting, and when you are cutting something delicate like melamine - you can set the saw down on the leftover piece without worrying about scratching it.Speaking of melamine - with my ez setup, there was no way I could get perfectly chip free cuts on all four edges of melamine, no matter the blade or technique. with the Festool, I can pretty much get edge-band ready edges either side of the blade.Some may not realize, but the Festool has outside of the kerf anti-chip inserts that keep your offcuts nice too.And lastly, With the EZ setup I had, I found that the antichip rail inserts (the white things), I found that the reference cut line varied with the clamping pressure and that with the long rail, there was some variance along the cutline referenced to the pencil marks due to having it clamped at the ends and not in the middle.Now that I have the Festool, I'd say it's well worth it, even at full cost. And if the Dewalt doesn't have the right of kerf anti-chip accesories - than I'd stick with the Festool.I certainly wouldn't have wanted to do the previous poster's close call laminate cutting with my EZ setup, but would feel confident doing so with the Festool.Julian
I had the EZ system and use it with a Milwaukee tilt-lock 7 1/4" saw.
I modified the milwaukee dust port to allow a vac hookup and did Dino's trick of using some heavy clear mylar around the front of the blade to help with the dust collection.
After the mods - it actually cut pretty darn much dust free with a vac attached.
It was a much better setup than the previous guide rail system I had which was one of the wide pro-8footer "clamp" rail and a UHMWPE sled for mounting the saw on.
Had I not got a screamin deal on a new Festool 55 setup, I'd still be telling you how handy the EZ system was... but now that I have the Festool setup, the differences are clearer.
First off - the blades are better than any blades I could find for a standard 7 1/4" circ saw. BUT - I didn't go ahead a buy a Forest 7 1/4 blade - so that would have equalized that I'm sure...
Julian,
The ez system offers the best antichip protection with any blade. (Tested by FHB) Eurekazone invented the antichip protection on the wasted side of the cut.
The ez system offers antichip protection on and off the guide rails.
The EZ saw mounting plate is a pain to mount the saw perfectly square - although now maybe he has changed it to have some adjustment.
Few years back. The smart base offers micro adjustments with 2 simple screws.
The Festool saw cuts PERFECTLY 90 degrees, and sometimes you need it to be perfect; it does it.
If the wood is perfect flat and your rail is strong without any flexing.
The ez rails are super strong and with dual clamping tracks to pull the wood flat to the rail...for a PEFECTLY 90 degrees cut.
The fact that it plunges means you can stop sawing and set it down IMMEDIATELY. With other saws on the EZ, you have to wait till the blade stops and than set it down carefully cause the blade is exposed (the guard cannot be in use while the saw is mounted on the EZ sled.
The plunge saws are ok for plunge cuts ...if you can keep them from jumping off the rails. The new Dewalt and Makita saws offer antikick back protection. Badly needed on the Festool and other plunge type saws. Search for "kickback" on the FOG forum. Do the same on the ez forum and you will find that regular saws don't kickback on the ez rails. The plunge saws limit the reach of cut. Awkward and simply unergonomic. You're forced in plunge mode trying to hold the saw from jumbing off the rails. Imagine using a plunge router without locking the plunge lever.
http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?action=search2
Even with a saw with a brake - it's still a pain when trying to work fast. And without a brake, it means 5 or so seconds after each cut that you have to wait.
With the new ez stuff ( Bridge and PBB) you don't even have to lift the saw off the rails.
With the Festool - no worries or waiting, and when you are cutting something delicate like melamine - you can set the saw down on the leftover piece without worrying about scratching it.
With the ez you don't even have to lift the saw off the rail.
Speaking of melamine - with my ez setup, there was no way I could get perfectly chip free cuts on all four edges of melamine, no matter the blade or technique. with the Festool, I can pretty much get edge-band ready edges either side of the blade.
Some may not realize, but the Festool has outside of the kerf anti-chip inserts that keep your offcuts nice too.
Another ez invention copied by another company.
And lastly, With the EZ setup I had, I found that the antichip rail inserts (the white things), I found that the reference cut line varied with the clamping pressure and that with the long rail, there was some variance along the cutline referenced to the pencil marks due to having it clamped at the ends and not in the middle.
The white edges was redesigned three times in order to provide the best antichip protection and keep the cutting line very precise. Mission impossible but ez done.
Now that I have the Festool, I'd say it's well worth it, even at full cost. And if the Dewalt doesn't have the right of kerf anti-chip accesories - than I'd stick with the Festool.
I certainly wouldn't have wanted to do the previous poster's close call laminate cutting with my EZ setup, but would feel confident doing so with the Festool.
The best features of Dewalt and Festool track systems are features "borrowed'' from the ez system.
The only way to find out what system offers the "best cut" is to have a true side by side comparison test.
david.
Edited 1/2/2009 9:46 pm ET by davidwood
C'mon David, I've had the ez guide for 5 years, and have used the festool, there's no accuracy comparison. With the ez "it all depends"... on how you clamp it, how bowed the workpiece is, how the saw is set up, who uses it, how they hold their mouth.If Dino has figured ways around the "it depends", I feel slighted, cause all I got was an aluminum shooting board that I have to keep supplying with anti chip strips...and how do you figure festool borrowed the technology?http://www.tvwsolar.com
Now you see this one-eyed midget
Shouting the word "NOW"
And you say, "For what reason?"
And he says, "How?"
And you say, "What does this mean?"
And he screams back, "You're a cow
Give me some milk
Or else go home"
Snort. 5 years is 5 years.
Read this post from a true user of both systems.
Search Festool on the ez forum and ez on the festool forum.
Ken View Image
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 45
I have owned both systems. First I bought the TS55 and a couple of guide rails. I had it for quite some time and used it to brake down sheet goods. When the MFT3 came out I got one. The combination was very good but a few problems arose. Festools "bridge" is rather flimsy and you have to make sure it is seated properly for every cut. The EZ bridge is heavy duty and as a result there are no surprises. With the MFT you have to readjust the height at both ends of the table every single time you cut materials of a different thickness, this becomes old really fast. The design of the EZ bridge eliminates this problem. Another thing that grew tiring with the MFT was having to remove the saw from the rail to lift the bridge after every cut. On the PBB the saw can stay right on the rail. One more advantage of the EZ PBB over the MFT is that you can custom build your own bench with the features and capabilities that you need. You can't get that in a prebuilt one size fits all package.The TS55 is a nice saw but it doesn't have enough power. It is fine for sheet goods but more power is desirable for ripping hardwoods. With Festool you are locked into using their saw. With EZ you can use any saw including the Festool. Being locked into Festool also means being locked into their blades as they are a non-standard size and bore. I used to hate having to use my $58 plus shipping blades on mdf and particle board. It is nice to be able to drive to a borg and purchase a cheap blade in an emergency.Festools guide rails are not up to the task if you want to go beyond sheet goods. With the EZ PBB you have greater capacity a 8' bridge is doable if you wish. Also the rails are very ridgid and you can rip narrow stock with no problem. Festools rails are thin and have to much flex to do this.If you do it right and go all out with either system neither will be cheap. But with EZ you can start out for less and add components as the need arises. For example you can build a basic power bench yourself for much less then the cost of buying one complete. You can also use your existing saw and router and upgrade these later if you desire. Also consider the cost of ownership. This includes the cost of consumables such as saw blades which will be a large reoccurring expense with Festool. Also in this category I would include service. Call Festool and see if you can get the owner on the phone. EZ has the best service you can get.When all is said and done I sold my TS55 and MFT3 the PBB is just that much better.
david.
Snort. 5 years is 5 years.Meaning? I have used them both, the Festool is the more accurate, in my experience.http://www.tvwsolar.com
Now you see this one-eyed midget
Shouting the word "NOW"
And you say, "For what reason?"
And he says, "How?"
And you say, "What does this mean?"
And he screams back, "You're a cow
Give me some milk
Or else go home"
You might check with Dino and see if the new-ish anti-chip edges will help you. IIRC the older ones had more of a problem with drift while the rail was being clamped down.'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb
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Hey Steve, I think I do have the newish inserts, and they are better... I'm not saying that I don't like the ez guide, it just has limitations, and accuracy is one of them.http://www.tvwsolar.com
Now you see this one-eyed midget
Shouting the word "NOW"
And you say, "For what reason?"
And he says, "How?"
And you say, "What does this mean?"
And he screams back, "You're a cow
Give me some milk
Or else go home"
Holly,Enlighten me. What makes you like the accuracy on the Festool more?I've got the EZ rails and a Festool rail. (No Festool saw though, not that I couldn't be talked into it at some point. I got the rail for the shelf pin / 32mm cabinet standard stuff)I'm going to guess it's because the F rail sits flatter and those non-skid strips really make clamping unnecessary. Curious to hear your thoughts.Best,
Steve'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb
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Just my opinions, now, ok? That festool saw is a real piece of machinery. Very smooth action, both plunging and riding the rail. The blade does not hit the strip, and the track does stay put on wider pieces. Ripping @ 45° doesn't cut the strips, like on the ez set up for 90° and tilted to 45°. Because the festool track is flexible, it conforms to the work, keeping the sawblade perpendicular.The ez is only as good as it's set up, the festool is set up. Clear as mud? <G>http://www.tvwsolar.com
Now you see this one-eyed midget
Shouting the word "NOW"
And you say, "For what reason?"
And he says, "How?"
And you say, "What does this mean?"
And he screams back, "You're a cow
Give me some milk
Or else go home"
Thanks. That makes sense to me.'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb
View Image
>>No Festool saw though<<I wouldn't want to live without the plunge. And the bevel cut indexing off the same piece of rubber as the square cut. I used it without clamps for years. Just got some clamps this summer, and use them some of the time, but mostly still clampless.Not great on narrow stock. I often put a another piece of stock the same thickness as the one being cut alongside it to fully support the the rail.Steve
Track-saw, schmack-saw. I've got a $50 self-clamping guide rail from Lee Valley that sets up in a tenth of the time of any 'track system' out there and works just as well as the carp driving it.
If that's not enuff for ya, the real next step up is a panel saw. (I told Santy Claus I wanted one but he said it wouldn't fit in my stocking....)
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
That's what I thought till I used one for a while.
Yeah, well I saw both the Festool and the EZ demonstrated at Riverfest and neither one does anything I need to do better or easier than the straightedge I've already got...and both take way longer to set up.
I took a look at the LV website a few minutes ago tho and saw that since I bought mine they've redesigned it a bit so it now can function as a track guide (they profiled the top of it to take a base plate and offer plates for both circs and routers).
Be that as it may, none of these systems--including the LV straightedge--can take out cab parts from a 4x8 sheet with the repeatability or speed of a panel saw, so that's what I'm saving my pennies for.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
I don't know what setup you are talking about. The festool takes no setup. You slap the guide on the line, set the saw on the guide, and cut. Done. No clamping, no measuring, no setting up the saw. Pull the trigger and go. Seeing it demonstrated and using for a while are not the same. Give one a try for a while and I guarantee you will not go back to the LV guide.Steve
Sorry, no sale.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
I could care less what you use. It's your loss.
TH, for someone that should be an open minded thinking man, you sure are mule headed.
Maybe write it in french so you don't sound so mean.
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Not trying to sound mean, bro; just attempting to put an end to that argument without spending an hour doing it. Sometimes my patience wears a bit thin when I get told three times in a row that I don't know shot from Shinola.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
I took a look at the LV website a few minutes ago tho and saw that since I bought mine they've redesigned it a bit so it now can function as a track guide (they profiled the top of it to take a base plate and offer plates for both circs and routers).
I looked at these guides a while ago and I was tempted to get them, but since I didn't need them right away, I held off. I'm glad I did because they're ability to function as a poor mans track guide with the new design is very appealing to me.
I suppose with everyone offering track guides these days (eg. EZ, Festool, Dewalt), Lee Valley is trying to find a way to cash in on those that are unwilling to spend the really big bucks, like me.
I don't doubt that the more expensive systems work better, it's just a matter of diminishing returns. I think Lee Valley's track guide would work just fine for me.
Since the longest guide they offer is 50", what do you do about ripping plywood?
I have the DeWalt track saw...but havent used it yet. Brad McFarland, the DeWalt guy with the yellow shirt..swears by his.
Basically he says...you plop it down...no clamping and cut away.
Stan
I think Lee Valley's track guide would work just fine for me.
Since the longest guide they offer is 50", what do you do about ripping plywood?
LOL. I cuss a bit and go look for an offcut of ply with a machine edge and a coupla C-clamps. (That's the reason I really want a panel saw.)
Actually, Lee Valley used to offer a 99" straightedge guide which could be taken down into a 50" and a 49" extension. Maybe they still offer it; check for Veritas straightedges with their search engine....
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
Here is a trick that I learned in another forum for aligning guides for a rip.
1 place razorblades at each end mark.
2 press your track against the blades.
3 pull the blades
4 cut.This method reduces the alignment hassles.
It should work with any saw that cuts to the rail edge.Craig
Fuel for the fire:
Makita track saw. Coming soon to a tool store near you. Maybe.
View Image"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
If that's not enuff for ya, the real next step up is a panel saw. (I told Santy Claus I wanted one but he said it wouldn't fit in my stocking....)It certainly ain't fittin' in your Fiat... & what moogie sed.http://www.tvwsolar.com
Now you see this one-eyed midget
Shouting the word "NOW"
And you say, "For what reason?"
And he says, "How?"
And you say, "What does this mean?"
And he screams back, "You're a cow
Give me some milk
Or else go home"
Fiat?? You mean a truck suppository?
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
I am assuming you would need to clamp when using the festool track with a router?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
>>clamp when using the festool track with a router?<<Probably a good idea. I don't have the festool router, so I can't really say. I've used my friend's with his festool router once or twice. That was years ago though, and I don't really remember it very well. If I recall, I could leave the clamps off if I took light passes. The clamps go on in a matter of seconds if you need them.My hope is that the new players coming out with track system will force a little downward pressure on prices. But I doubt it.Steve
the antiskid strips (tape) is the last option when clamping is not possible. flooring?
works good when the strips are new and in some CLEAN surfaces.
the best route is to have 2 easily removable antichip edges. one with and one without the antiskid tape that is available for $4.00-$5.00 from many suppliers.
if you're trying to align the tracks on the marks on long rips, the antiskid feature becomes the problem. if you're trying to square the tracks to the panel, the antiskid tape don't allow you to slide the tracks to the mark. you actually have to drop the rail to the marks. good luck.
one of the systems offers slidable edges that can be replaced in seconds without chemicals and heat guns. the same system offers but don't recommends the use of the antiskid tape for production and cabinetmaking work.
using a router without clamping is a recipe for disaster.
david.
Edited 1/4/2009 11:31 am ET by davidwood
I honestly haven't had the same experiences as you. Not clamping down is the preferred option.
Which works perfectly well most of the time. I have one Festool rail that is a hand me down, with
many years of abuse on it. Don't know the last time the
anti slip strips were replaced.
they still work fine. Aligning the rails is easy as pie. Just put it on the
line. Or rather just back from the line on a rather worn
out guide.
Any back and forth adjusting is the same as any straight edge. Your probably right about the router, but I wouldn't know.
The Festool is my choice, although I might consider the EZ for an inexpensive augmentation of my capabilities.
The 105"? rail for the Festool is almost $250, so that is a real consideration.
I have never had to clamp my Festool rail, except when cutting Melamine. I agree that using the router on the Festool definitely merits the clamps.
My solution to a longer rail may be to upgrade to the Festool router, which comes with a standard rail. For the additional cost of $28 to add the adapters, I can end up with a long rail. I wonder why these German marketing geniuses decided to sell the two rail-joining adapters separately. I think their aggressive marketing division falls far short of their engineering division. This would not be the first time that the people who put on the final spin to generate more profit carry more weight than those who produce the product. Just look at our auto industry!
The Festool is my choice, although I might consider the EZ for an inexpensive augmentation of my capabilities.
good to have choices. the ez powerbench and many of their other tools are more expensive than festool.
the ez router kit is $137.00? and the festool is 60?
the ez square with the handle is $120.00 and the festool is $65?
the ez powerbench is almost $1000.00 and the mft-3 is $600.00?
neven mind the prices. look at the capabilities and the versatility of the tools.
comparing a track saw system to ez is like comparing a drill press to a bridbeport.
david.
I honestly haven't had the same experiences as you.
it must be the type of work and the other tools that we use.
Not clamping down is the preferred option.Which works perfectly well most of the time.
I have one Festool rail that is a hand me down, with many years of abuse on it. Don't know the last time the anti slip strips were replaced.they still work fine.
for the type of work and the other tools that you have in your disposal.
Aligning the rails is easy as pie. Just put it on the line. Or rather just back from the line on a rather worn out guide.Any back and forth adjusting is the same as any straight edge.
not with the ez systsem and their optional positioning devices. with the ez system you don't rely on the edges.
Your probably right about the router, but I wouldn't know.
the router produces side forces. there is no way to rout without clamping.
except if you use the ez tunnel routing method or the ez powerbench.
david
David, when did the ez alignment feature appear on joining the guide rails?A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
calvin,
from day one.
http://eurekazone.com/gallery/Connection-system-details
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Edited 1/4/2009 4:40 pm ET by davidwood
do you remember when dino held up a 16' connected section by one end ?....at andy's ?
most of the time we just flop the ez down on the goods and rip away....no clamps needed
if the stress factor is high, we use the clamps.... we are not cabinet makers so maybe the accuracy i'm looking for is different than someone building stain grade kitchens
but we do build a lot of MDO built'ins... and all our long cuts and scribe cuts are made with the ez
we use a lot of 4x8 azek too.....that's all cut with ez
repetitive cuts and rips we sometimes do on our ts...... but the old days of trying to cut tapers and scribes are now a piece of cakeMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I have no problem with aligning my (2) 4' rails into one long 8' rail. I simply line up my 6' level with both rails and perfecto - it's done.I see it as a non issue.I mean no offense, but you are just about as pestering as Dino used to be on these boards. You guys just won't quit.Dino's a great guy that invented a great and multi-function product to be sure. The website's a bit lacking as are the videos used to show off the features and abilities, but it's good stuff - no question.My take is that for precision sheet goods use, the Festool saw is superior to any other saw that is available at a lower cost. Now maybe the primo Hilti saw evens up the playing field, but the HIlti saw and the Ez setup is about the same price as a Festool setup, and the Festool still has many more advanatages IMO.Maybe one of the reasons these debates continue even amongst previous users of EZ who currently use Festool is that many of us are referencing the older EZ stuff.I had the cabinet repeaters - they were sloppy and would introduce much play leading to inconsistancies. When I called Dino to return them - he said they had been much improved. Well nobody told me that, so I can only base my opinion based on the "prototype" I was using. Same with the anti-chip edges - I never found out they had been improved or changed - so my comments refer to the older style.Perhaps if EZ had a better customer database email system, they could have kept their customers from switching over. In fact, I asked Dino for about 7 months to supply the copy of my invoice for the $550 worth of EZ stuff I bought and I never did get one for my records (it was not included in the product shipment). I'll agree he himself offers great service, but the office end was lacking. (probably much better now, I'm sure.)Julian
Yeah, clamp when routing. Too much lateral thrust.You almost don’t need to clamp for 32mm boring, but the up-down plunge action introduces a bit of hop which could make the jig creep. So could the action of the shot-pin registering system.At first, I always clamped when sawing, too. Partly just being cautious, and partly because with a standard carpenter’s shoot-board, you need to press a sidewinder hard to the left to guarantee a clean cut. But with the Festo’s miter-gauge-slot system, no lateral pressure is needed. You just need to re-train yourself, and use a light hand.Early on, I drilled and countersunk holes in the rails, and I use them a lot to mount the rails on vertical surfaces, etc. I don’t know why holes aren’t standard-issue from the factory.One thing that hasn’t been talked about that makes the Festo saw so good is the tightness of the bearings, and the minimal runout. There might be saws out there that are comparable, but I haven’t found one.AitchKay
I sense a Festool/Mac conspiracy to make sure my bank account stays at zero. LOLHow close to the ends does your plunge saw go? Had a spot the other week where I needed to trim the edge of installed flooring and the plunge would have been nice (anti-skid would have been nice, too). Managed to make do with my setup, but couldn't get close enough to the edge. Any hope that the Festool has something like a flush-cut ability?'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb
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Hold on to your pcketbook, I think your 17" MacBook Pro will be probably be announced this afternoon at macworld.No, not flush cutting. Without having it here in front of me, I'm guessing it's within a couple of inches. I've had to do the same with flooring and just finished the cut with a multimaster against a straight edge.You do have a multimaster don't you? Hello...wallet...Steve
You know, I got into the midst of that project and thought, boy, wouldn't a multimaster be nice right about now. Maybe I'll think about that Bosch version so I can afford the MBP if that comes out today.Thanks for the info.Best,
Steve'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb
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Maybe not applicable for your use, but might be a good FYI...Dewalt makes a pretty cool super deep jigsaw blade that allows for near flush-cutting ability with a jigsaw.On my Bosch, I had to remove the little wire safety guard to use it, but it'll let you do what no other blade will. They run about $11 or so, has a real sharp tooth setup.Julian
Thanks. I'll try to pick one of those up. Sounds like a great find.'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb
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A while back I scored about 5 packs of mixed DW jig blades that had one each of those for next to nothing. Same on pulling the wire guard on the Bosch saw. It is a pretty aggressive blade and cuts pretty fast but brutal.For those who have fought for it Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.
accuracy comes from positioning devices.
square, cabinetmaker, repeaters, bridge etc... ( ez inventions)
the latest festool innovation is a copy of the ez repeaters.
ease comes from the rail design and the freedom to use the right tool for the right job. plunge saws are very limited in reach and use.
the new dewalt rail is another example of the ez innovations. ( two directional cutting)
we're comparing guide rails or saws? systems or marketing of tools?
Let me give you one example. The ez track system offers a patented self aligning connection system. the "other" rails are designed not to self align.
the users are forced to buy the overpriced long rails that they don't last few days at the jobsite. think about that for a moment.
the ez tracks allows you to use any and all saws and routers ever made. even the festool and dewalt. the other systems are designed to force the customer into their tools and blades. good for them but not better for the real user.
david.
happy new year.
Can you explain this a bit and tell us when this feature came about?
thanks
Let me give you one example. The ez track system offers a patented self aligning connection system. the "other" rails are designed not to self align.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
David, I'm pretty sure I understand where accuracy comes from, and removing the variables is the biggest factor. Point and shoot.I have learned how, when, and where to use the ez, and it's fine within those parameters. The only reason I'm saying anything at all, is that you're claiming it to do things it doesn't.How square the blade cuts to the work depends (among other things) on the clamping force, how the saw is fitted into the base, and how much pressure is put on the saw while cutting... Festool, it's pretty much point and shoot.I have not used the festool rails in the co-joined manner. I have 3 sections of ez, and they are not even close to self-aligning. I have to use my door level to keep them straight. Even with the rails straight, it still takes a touch to get a dead straight cut. With the festool 100" rail, point and shoot again... course it won't fit into the trunk of a Fiat, or even the back of my truck... the reason I got the ez to begin with.Now I also have the Tee Square attachment. I've seen Dino cut squares with it, but nobody who has used mine can.I do think Dino has leg up with some of his clamping devices."the users are forced to buy the overpriced long rails that they don't last few days at the jobsite. think about that for a moment."We recently were on a job with 8 trim carpenters fighting over two festool systems. I admit, they feel flimsy, at first, but we were there 2 weeks, and no festool rails were harmed. Lemme know when I've thought about it enough? <G>http://www.tvwsolar.com
Now you see this one-eyed midget
Shouting the word "NOW"
And you say, "For what reason?"
And he says, "How?"
And you say, "What does this mean?"
And he screams back, "You're a cow
Give me some milk
Or else go home"
>>the overpriced long rails that they don't last few days at the jobsite. think about that for a moment.<<Well, my long rail has been just fine in heavy field use for more than five years. And a friend of mine has had his long rail in heavy field use for about 10 years. They are not that fragile. A pain to pack into the truck at 9' long, but plenty tough enough for field use.Steve
David,I had them both side by side and had superior results with the system I kept, the Festool.You come across sounding like an EZ zone employee, is that the case?Either way, I'm just throwing my experience out there - not trying to stir up you and Dino.I could care less who thought up what when - my only concern is which product makes it happen easier and more accurate.Regards,Julian
The only way to find out is to have a true side by side comparison test.
Anything less is just talk.
Happy new year.
david.
What is your affiliation with EZ and this guy Dino?From all of your posts, it would appear to be a professional one.AitchKay
one would think....
but probably notMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I run a machine shop and I like woodworking.
I see dino once a week and I get to play with new toys ( Beta team) before they go into production.
Dino's inventions made my work easy and safe.
I make prototypes for eurekazone and I get to keep some for my machine and woodshop.
I work for myself and I like to support innovation.
david.
hey david.... did my pbb get on a ups truck yet ?
figure it'll be a good way to start 2009Mike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Mike,
Your dual PBB that was sold 25 times? ( Mike's D-PBB?)
This one is locked in a special room waiting for something special.
I think is 99,9% ready now.
david.
yeah.... that would be the one.... you don't know how many people have seen it and told me about the previous incarnation
it keeps getting better and betterMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Since it turns out that you ARE professionally affiliated with EZ, it is important that you say so every single time you post about one of their products. I’m sure you have done so at one time or another, but not all of us have read every single post in every single thread on BT.Anything less than full disclosure is less than fully ethical.AitchKay
That would certainly place his comments in perspective.
Here's what the House Rules say:3. Advertisements
Solicitations or advertisements are not permitted outside designated folders, unless authorized by Taunton.My dictionary says: advertise -- to praise the good qualities of (a product, service, etc.) in a public medium in order to induce people to buy or use it.Although a lot of the posts in this thread fit the above definition, to my knowledge you are the only poster who stands to profit, or benefit in some other way, from increased sales.So either limit your posts to threads like "WHAT SIZE COPPER PIPE...", or, at the very least, put a full-disclosure note in your signature bar.AitchKay
aitch.... why don't you back off ?
i for one like the fact that someone knowledgable about ez is willing to take the time
lord knows i get to hear no end of the heavenly chorus singing the praises of festool
dino has been removed.... now you're trying for another ......
gimme a breakMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I find the information useful, too.And once you know which side his bread is buttered on, it's even more useful, because you can put it into perspective.As I said, full disclosure.I'm not trying to gag anyone, as you are. I'm just asking for honesty.Aitchkay
I agree with Mike, let it be.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
I agree with Mike and Sphere, he aint selling anything, he's answering questions.
Give it up.Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City
I see your point, AitchKay, but his posts are for all practical purposes self-identifying as advertising. I pretty much stopped reading them after the first or second one, except to refute things that he said that i found to be untrue in my own experience.They are bordering on stealth marketing though.Steve
>>he aint selling anything<<Not directly, but he does have a financial interest in the EZ doing well. I don't care if he identifies that in every post or not, but if it is in the terms of service, he should.Steve
Edited 1/5/2009 2:12 pm by mmoogie
who appointed you moderator?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
>>I was wanting to know what this thing can do that is impossible with any other tool or system.<<I didn't say impossible, I said nearly impossible...The main thing the track saws offer that set them apart from a shooting board is the ability to plunge with absolute precision, and bevel cuts indexing at the edge of the rubber. Plus everything is just so easy. Slap the guide on the line and go. No measuring, no clamping. And the with the vacuum attached it produces very little sawdust so you can work inside without getting everything filthy.Now I'm sure you can accomplish nearly anything with other methods, and I got by without one for many years, but I wouldn't want to go back to not having one.Steve
OK, so have you used the EZ? and if so, are there advantages of the DW track over the EZ?I'm not trying to fight, just trying for a good objective assessment of the tool
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
No, I'm not familiar with the EZ, other than what I've read here.I've only fiddled with the DW at the store for a few minutes. I'm more familiar with the Festo, so I'll base my caomparison on that. Off the top of my head what I can see as Festo advantages are the plunge mechanism, the dust collection, and the bevel cut indexing to exactly the same spot as a 90 degree cut.EZ has the advantage of using a standard saw, cheaper saw and blades, bigger blade, more depth-of-cut. But that brings with it all the drawbacks that implies as well--no dust collection shroud around the blade, no controllable retractable plunge. No built-in riving knife, no variable speed with electronic speed control.I don't know which I would have bought had I been aware of the EZ when I bought my Festo. I may have wanted to save some money and gone with the EZ. But I can't think of a reason other than money. I can see a couple of differences between the DW and the Festo. Dewalt plunge mechanism feels funny to me. It's a parallelogram and and seems to have some initial resistance which I would find annoying. It is set up so that you can ride the saw on the floor to cut doors off in place, which would seem useful, though I have my doubts about how well that would really work.My only point was that I wouldn't let the cost of the blades stop you from getting a dedicated track saw. There are advantages to the dedicated saw that to my mind outweigh the cost of the blades. Festo blades run about 40 dollars and are very nice blades. The EZ seems to be a good system too, though a little make-do.Steve
Thanks. if dust collection were high on my list of important items to consider, I'd lean that way. As it is, I have the EZ and a saaw for about $275 investment.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Most of the time I can set up outside and run without the vacuum, but when I can't the dust collection is a godsend. IF you are taking a cut where the blade is buried in the wood, cuts are nearly dust-free. When you are less than a full saw-kerf than you still get some dust, but it's manageable. I don't think the EZ was out when I got my first Festo, or I might have given it a hard look. I sold my first to Henley, and got the improved Festo last year, as I was vested in track sections and clamps and such. The newer models are definitely an improvement over the first generation.Steve
One other reason we bought a dewalt track saw. Was the router guide I can put
My porter cable router on it. With my Feestool I have to use a feestool router.This set up works great for cuttin groves in large panels.
i should be getting our 5th EZ next weekwait'l you see this oneMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Don't keep us in suspense. LOLWhat's new about the new one?'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb
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ain't even seen it yet... paulb says he saw it at Dino's.
and there may be videos of it.... but Dino keeps tweaking it ......so
i'm just going to wait for it's arrival
who gets here first ??
the new EZ ? or Baby New Year ?Mike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
So, Baby New Year is almost upon us.Did Dino beat the rush with the new model?'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb
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no... but hope springs eternalMerry New Year to youare you running a Mac these days ?Mike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Happy New Year to you, too!No Mac yet. Waiting for Mr. Jobs to roll out the new MBP 17" version. And I see there are rumors of a quad core chipset. Guess we'll see what happens at MacWorld next week.'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb
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Except for the slightly lighter wallet, you will feel no pain... come towards the light...http://www.tvwsolar.com
Now you see this one-eyed midget
Shouting the word "NOW"
And you say, "For what reason?"
And he says, "How?"
And you say, "What does this mean?"
And he screams back, "You're a cow
Give me some milk
Or else go home"
I tested out the new 15" ones the other week. Very nice. I'm pretty much sold on one, just don't want to give up the screen real estate I've become accustomed to on my current laptop. I think Apple's got a release coming out this spring for a 17" version.Happy New Year to you!'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb
View Image
For a work machine, even 17" would drive me bonkers, I gotta spread out.A same to you, hope it's a new year that's happy.
http://www.tvwsolar.com
Now you see this one-eyed midget
Shouting the word "NOW"
And you say, "For what reason?"
And he says, "How?"
And you say, "What does this mean?"
And he screams back, "You're a cow
Give me some milk
Or else go home"
>>7" would drive me bonkers, I gotta spread out.<<Me too. I just jumped up to a 24" monitor from a 22 previously. I think I've found the sweet spot. DW keeps saying I should get a laptop for client meetings, but I don't want one. I drag the 24" iMac to the client's house when I need to hold an on-site design meeting.Steve
"I drag the 24" iMac to the client's house when I need to hold an on-site design meeting."Do you buckle that baby up? Short stop and you've got apple pie filling!http://www.tvwsolar.com
Now you see this one-eyed midget
Shouting the word "NOW"
And you say, "For what reason?"
And he says, "How?"
And you say, "What does this mean?"
And he screams back, "You're a cow
Give me some milk
Or else go home"
<<Short stop and you've got apple pie filling!>>Well, it's lot better than back in the day when I used to drag my full-sized tower and CRT monitor around...
I signed up for the "One-to-One" at the Apple store, so I do a lot of driving with my 20" I-mac.I kept the box, which is OK as a "suitcase."Put it in the back seat on the passenger side, and tip the seat back to lock it in -- very secure!Aitchkay
I also have a 20" iMac, pre-intel... if I could only remember how to get the stand off!http://www.tvwsolar.com
I went down to the lobby
To make a small call out.
A pretty dancing girl was there,
And she began to shout,
"Go on back to see the gypsy.
He can move you from the rear,
Drive you from your fear,
Bring you through the mirror.
He did it in Las Vegas,
And he can do it here."
Steve... my MBP is a 17"i wouldn't want to go smallerMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
http://www.apple.com/macbookpro/17-inch/Mike, do you draw on the laptop? I need a 24 x 36 screen.http://www.tvwsolar.com
Now you see this one-eyed midget
Shouting the word "NOW"
And you say, "For what reason?"
And he says, "How?"
And you say, "What does this mean?"
And he screams back, "You're a cow
Give me some milk
Or else go home"
at home i do... in the office i draw on a 22" with a dual 19" monitor on the sidei bring files home on a thumb driveMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
what kind of mouse (meece)?http://www.tvwsolar.com
Now you see this one-eyed midget
Shouting the word "NOW"
And you say, "For what reason?"
And he says, "How?"
And you say, "What does this mean?"
And he screams back, "You're a cow
Give me some milk
Or else go home"
i use Explorer Trackball 1.0
they don'y make them anymore , so i hoard them.... i have 4
i look for wireless trackballs, but haven 't found any that i like as well as this
i also trained myself to use the mouse with my left hand....it helps with cad....
and driving in Ireland and the UKMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I like the Kensington 4 button trackball, haven't seen a need for wireless since it's not moving around anyhow. Ha, I'm left handed, had to learn mousing right handed cause Sherry and the boys kept moving it... keyboard shortcuts with left makes it a lot easier.http://www.tvwsolar.com
Now you see this one-eyed midget
Shouting the word "NOW"
And you say, "For what reason?"
And he says, "How?"
And you say, "What does this mean?"
And he screams back, "You're a cow
Give me some milk
Or else go home"
that kensington.... big square grey thing with the trackball mounted right in the middle ?
that's the one i used to use
this one has 4 buttons, big track ball....and a scroll wheelMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
<this one has 4 buttons, big track ball....and a scroll wheel>So, are you talking these?http://computers.shop.ebay.com/items/Trackballs__W0QQ_nkwZmicrosoftQ20trackballQQ_armrsZ1QQ_fromZQQ_mdoZComputersQ2dNetworkingQQ_pcatsZ3676Q2c58058QQ_sacatZ11193Looks like that would be like playing a Stratocaster left-handed?http://www.tvwsolar.com
Now you see this one-eyed midget
Shouting the word "NOW"
And you say, "For what reason?"
And he says, "How?"
And you say, "What does this mean?"
And he screams back, "You're a cow
Give me some milk
Or else go home"
yeppers..... das it
did you see the price they're asking for some of those ?
notice the description.... " best trackball ever made "
wonder why they stopped making it ..... i love itMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Price is crazy, I can see why you're hoarding...http://www.tvwsolar.com
Now you see this one-eyed midget
Shouting the word "NOW"
And you say, "For what reason?"
And he says, "How?"
And you say, "What does this mean?"
And he screams back, "You're a cow
Give me some milk
Or else go home"
Nice to know there's another Explorer Trackball fanatic like myself out there. Sad to say I paid near the top price listed on the e-bay link for a NIB a few years ago vor my 2nd. The used ones are tempting. Ought to add another to my inventory.
Really is strange that MS dropped production on it but at the time I bought my 1st one they were priced pretty high so hard to get customers to give it a try for such a price difference.
back to work....
I think one thing that has been mentioned here but not elaborated on is the plunge mechanism on the Festool. I like being able to consistently set a precision plunge depth, and I don't know that that can be done with any other track saw or equivalent such as the EZ. Maybe the DeWalt has a plunge depth adjustment. My guess is that it is not as precise as the Festool if it does adjust. That may be unfair, so correct me if I am wrong. When you lock in the Festool for a certain depth, you know that it is going to be right. There is no doubt in this mechanism.
Also, I like the fact that if you stop cutting while the Festool is down, you have to raise it again to start. There is an interlock so you can't accidentally start. Once you finish the cut and let the saw up, you would have to be very clumsy to cut yourself. If you slip on the floor while you are cutting, the saw is designed so that it will stop and retract before the blade could get at you.
Although the saw is expensive, the precision blades are reasonably priced, IMO, unlike the Fein MM.
and, the festool blades can be resharpened... unlike the feins <G>http://www.tvwsolar.com
Now you see this one-eyed midget
Shouting the word "NOW"
And you say, "For what reason?"
And he says, "How?"
And you say, "What does this mean?"
And he screams back, "You're a cow
Give me some milk
Or else go home"
Lost Knots member here, don't have time to read 120+ posts, but what's with "proprietary blade" thing? There are at least three other 6.5" blade out there. Freud makes a TK blade, a framing blade and and Avanti TK blade that are all that size. Is there an arbor-hole problem? $10 - $26.
sorry if it's mentioned in earlier post(s).forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Far as I know, the only aftermarket blades avail for Festool saws are The Forest options.The Arbor holes are a non-standard metric size.JT
Seems to me, any good machine shop ( or well equipped sharpener) can bore or ream a new concentric hole in a blade.
I've made gang saw blades of 2.375" dia, at .022 kerf with a keyway notch..(so they'd not spin when used with fret distance spacers) for finger board slotters..it's all in how ya look at it.
There are also a zillion bushings for blade adaptations, or again..make em.
One of the most crucial steps I have learned as a custom wood shaper, is making custom metal do the work..and if you can't make the metal, some one else can.
This whole age of "proprietary" arbors and parts ( the star arbor on the MM) are just SMALL steps, to making one more inventive and working to different specs. Go for it. It ain't spaceship type work, it's a blade.
I've taken a wing out of play on router bits ( cutting, not balance) to get a profile..just buy a cheap HSS bit and grind it to a single cutter, the other cutter is the balance, not profile..a few .000 is not gonna kill ya.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Don't know why some folk have such a hardon for this davidwood in that he's posted what? 10 or so posts in this thread
and like half of those were non-descriptive of the EZ guide set-up and the bulk of those that were were in answering someone's questions.
sphere says not to say were were and that that
94969.19 In the beginning there was Breaktime...
94969.1 Photo Gallery Table of Contents
This just in from macworld:17" MBP6.6 pounds it's the world's lightest 17-inch notebook."
1920 x 1200 pixel resolution.
700:1 contrast ratio.
60% greater color gamut than the previous model
$50 Anti-Glare option.
Magsafe, firewire 800, ethernet USB, express card 34
There's no Firewire 400.
It's got the glass trackpad just like the rest of the new MacBook family.
Intel Core 2 Duo 2.93GHz Processor. (Not a quad-core like some people were speculating.) Up to 8GB memory.
GeForce 9400M
battery is 40% larger, gets up to 8 hours on GForce 9400, 7 hours on GForce 9600GT
3x more charging cycles for 3x the life. Not user replaceable.$2800
Edited 1/6/2009 1:38 pm by mmoogie
Thanks, I caught the MacWorld live updates from over here. Looks pretty nice. Very interesting battery technology.Guess I'd better start saving up!'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb
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I think I may be unique here: I have owned and sold both systems. I never could get used to working that way. Both are touted by their proponents (the more evangelical ones, anyway) as the be all-end all innovations that will do everything for you while you step out for coffee. Perhaps I did not use them enough-and I can definitely see the advantages of working with these tools-but I just could not adapt my style to these. I guess I just prefer a tablesaw.
IMO only, the EZ required far too much fiddling. I've posted here several times about problems I had getting everything set up right, and in the end I never did. (Full discosure-some, if not most, of the problems were of my own making.) The Festool was foolproof, and that alone made it better (FOR ME ANYWAY), but I tried to use it with the MFT (their table with the built in gude rail) and that was as much of a headache (if not more) than the EZ. I got so peeved I just sold the whole package and upgraded my tablesaw.
Personally I don't want to futz with tools-I want to use them.
I just finished a huge MDF built-in project where I really could have used either one, and felt a slight twinge of regret.
Most nights are crystal clear, but tonight it's like he's stuck between stations.
i feel your pain...
they sure do come in handy for breaking down sheet goods and ripping tapersMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
He didn't really answer any of my questions, and I'm pretty sure he previously posted that he had no affiliation to Dino... hmmm, if anybody could find that out, you could <G>http://www.tvwsolar.com
I went down to the lobby
To make a small call out.
A pretty dancing girl was there,
And she began to shout,
"Go on back to see the gypsy.
He can move you from the rear,
Drive you from your fear,
Bring you through the mirror.
He did it in Las Vegas,
And he can do it here."
i posted before about my affiliation with dino.
david.
dino's friend.
Edited 1/6/2009 5:07 pm ET by davidwood
Sorry if I got the affiliation part wrong, have been working with Dino since you started posting here?... so, if you work with Dino can you help me figure out why my tracks aren't self aligning, cuts are not consistently square to the face of the work, & the tee square is off?I'm not trying to bash the ez, and I think Dino is great. I've got some money tied up in the ez. I knew going in it was the lesser choice , but after using the festool, I really know.http://www.tvwsolar.com
I went down to the lobby
To make a small call out.
A pretty dancing girl was there,
And she began to shout,
"Go on back to see the gypsy.
He can move you from the rear,
Drive you from your fear,
Bring you through the mirror.
He did it in Las Vegas,
And he can do it here."
snort,
call eurekazone and you get all the answers.
as far as i know, eurekazone is the only company that offers free upgrades and replacements if you have ANY problems with ANY of their products.
guide rails don't align?
you may have bended connectors or bad rails. do you leave 1/32" space between the rails?
Cuts not square at the edge?
try the new edges and a good blade. not a 60 teeth blade or the high quality full kerf blades. a 24 teeth framing blade or a 40 teeth diablo or similar. (less resistance)
non square cuts?
send your old square to the zone and get the newest model for free.
post your problems at the ez forum and you get the right answers.
david
dino's friend.
Thanks, I have emailed Dino, but never did get an answer. I'll try the zone.http://www.tvwsolar.com
I went down to the lobby
To make a small call out.
A pretty dancing girl was there,
And she began to shout,
"Go on back to see the gypsy.
He can move you from the rear,
Drive you from your fear,
Bring you through the mirror.
He did it in Las Vegas,
And he can do it here."
snort,
dino started this thread on the ez forum.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=85323
problems and only problems
a good thread to post and get answers and ez solutions.
david.
Most circular saws use a 5/8 arbor, which is around 16 mm, festool and dewalt track saws use a 20mm arbor.
Edited 1/6/2009 6:41 pm ET by Proclive
Used it bevel some door blanks today. My observations: You have to have about 6" overhanging ahead of your cut - because the saw has to be fully engaged with the track as your blade begins the cut, for the cut to start off clean.
Shop Vac or dust control is a MUST - the thing makes a LOT of dust as it cuts. I learned the hard way - cutting Bolivian mahogany, almost made me sick. I wore a dust mask for the cuts, but took it off too soon, before the dust had cleared.
Overall very pleased, it seemed to be a good tool for the application. In the past I've always used a planer, I liked beveling with the track saw better.
"...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com