Differences between Kreg K3 and K4 kits
jeffah
| Posted in Tools for Home Building on
Trying to decide between the Kreg jig kits.
What is the difference between the K3 and K4 that makes the K3 $40 more?
What function am I losing by going with the cheaper model?
Is there another option for buying screws for use with the jigs?
Whether there is a exact replacement screw or is there another type of screw such as a deck screw that will work just as well?
Thanks
Jeff
Replies
Can't help you on the difference..........
I suppose you could figure it out initially by looking at both. My kit doesn't even have a number................I don't think.
But, as far as the screws, there are off brands and to my knowledge, they work fine. Never heard of screws breaking off or anything like that. These screws are stout.
Personally, they come pkg'd in maybe boxes of 500 or so-takes quite a bit of dedicated pocket hole work to use those up. Farting around hunting for another brand might just cost more than the original equipment.
Best of luck.
I see 2 significant differences.
The K4 has a clamping handle on the "back" side of the jig. This is fine if it's used as a bench-mounted jig, but not as easy otherwise as the "front" mounted handle on the K3.
Also, the K4 doesn't come with the face clamp. You'll really want to have the face clamp. It just makes things a lot easier.
BTW, I highly recommend the Kreg kits in general (whichever one suits your needs better). It's a well-made product at a reasonable price, does exactly what they say it does and I've been very happy with their customer service.
Screws for Kreg jig
I think McFeeley's carries a line of the screws for the Kreg system
Handle location
The K3 has the clamp handle on the drill, side. The K4 has it on the "back side". How much of an advantage the K3 is depends on what you do with it. For face frames it isn't an issue. If you use it to do pocket holes on larger panels, where the panel size makes it impossible to get to the handle on the K4, with out walking around the bench, then you will want the K3.
As for screws, any of the panhead or roundhead styles, of the right size will work, and did for decades before Kregg got involved. Avoid flatheads as they can tend to split the wood.