At the suggestion of a fellow BTer, I’m starting a new thread to document the DR/Kit. phase of the whole-house remodel I’m currently involved with.
The job is for my brother and sis-n-law, and has been going on since last May due to the fact that I’m a full-time student and have interests in NC that require considerable time from me. Plus I work alone.
After installing a single door from the screen porch into the existing DR, it was time to remove this “thing” and wall up the space, save for a 3’0″ C.O. and a small pass-thru to the den visible here in the background.
Removing the 1×8 boards was quick work (no sledge-hammer needed), and the absence of a header wasn’t surprising given that I had reworked a similar but smaller opening at the other end of the kitchen. Besides, the double top plate would be adequate to support the minimal weight of ceiling joists, drywall, and R-19.
As I began to remove the hodge-podge of 2×4’s, I started hearing some rather discomforting creaks and pops, so for safety’s sake I stuck in a couple of props between single plates.
With the ceiling now supported, I could safely remove the “header” WOW, this shoulda been posted on girlbuilder’s “what’s the worst you’ve seen” thread.
If no header weren’t bad enough, whoever did the previous work had REMOVED THE DOUBLE PLATE FOR THIS BEARING WALL AS WELL. Essentially, the 2 sets of 2×6 ceiling joists were floating in the attic. The 1×8 construction of the false timber arch had been at least somewhat bearing.
Whoever did this didn’t even have the decency to clip or pull the nails that once held this section of wall together.
Edited 2/1/2007 5:32 pm ET by davidhawks
Replies
They say that God looks out for fools and drunks, and in a previous life I went to great lengths to prove this fact. Evidently, the last homeowner/remodeler fit nicely into that criteria as well.
Apparently the wall that he removed prior to constructing the fake beam contained a variety of electrical devices, all of which needed to be relocated. As best I can tell there were 2 receptacles, a thermostat for elec. baseboard heat, and a 3-way switch.
I found that ALL of the cables supplying and connecting these devices had been cut and spliced up in the attic w/out the benefit of a single J-box, or in one case, even wirenuts had been overlooked.
In this photo, you might be able to see where he ran short (pardon the pun) of cable to extend a section of 12/3 to an adjacent wall. The solution: simply tape up the piece of BARE GROUND on a length of 12/2 and use it for one of the traveller conductors.
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After temporarily straightening out that mess (read: shut off breaker), I finished the task at hand, which was to return some structural integrity to this opening.
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As usual, this isn't the design I would have opted for, but they need to create all the wall space that they can since every inch of it will soon be occupied with custom cabinetry.
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David,
Looks like you opened up a can of worms there. You have the knowhow to correct the "existing conditions". At least someone used electrical tape.
I once did work for a real estate invester and I pointed out a whole lot of previous work that was inferior, he said "that's the charm and the beauty of an old house".
Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
This looks so familiar...I was going to replace kitchen cabinets and needed 1.5 inches more for the cabinets I ordered. I knew previous owners had added 2x2s and drywall over the plaster so I got into the wall and noticed 3 wiring issues the worst was 2 lone black wires carved into the drywall, mudded over, going up to the kitchen light.
So as I got in to replace the wiring, I noticed that a couple of the studs were cut off to make room for HVAC. As I I took more and more out and found a 7' opening on a two story load bearing wall with no header.
My simple kitchen update has turned into a gut rehab.
--Dave
no sledge-hammer needed.
I caught that.
Keep em coming. The picture threads are a good read.
The dining room leads out to the screen porch?
Thanks for noticing.
Yes, the screen proch is right off the dining area. Check the end of the "Screen Porch" thread in photo gallery to orient yourself.
Gonna try to get some more stuff uploaded tomorrow after game.
Customer requested broom closet/built-in pantry. Not sure I like this design; sort of creates a "hallway" leading out to screen porch.
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Old partition wall seperating kitchen from existing DR. Coming down w/o sledge hammer. Recip. saw and finesse.
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New bank of cabinets, double oven, and small desk on this wall.
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That opens things up a bit.
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Roughed-in new lights. 10 recessed and 2 hanging fixtures over new bar area. The remodeling cans are almost as easy to install as new.
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Stripped and roughed, ready for DW.
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David,
Looks good in there. What type of floor do they plan on?
Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
They chose a prefinished 3/4 hickory that very closely matches the custom cabinets. I'm hoping to get it next week so I can install in the area that is unaffected by casework. Basically try to finish the DR portion and minimize the disruption to the household, even though the cabinets aren't scheduled for install until 4/1.
I've never worked for anyone who was LESS bothered by ongoing construction than my bro. and SIL. The chaos doesn't seem to concern them in the least! With them, it's a deal where they can't wait to get home after work and see what was done that day. Very good feelings all around.
LOL, when I first looked at this picture I thought I was seeing a decorative light fixture in the cabinet. I was thinking, "why would you put a fancy light in a cabinet? Then the proverbial light bulb went off and I realized we are looking through a pass-through.
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Old partition wall seperating kitchen from existing DR. Coming down w/o sledge hammer. Recip. saw and finesse.
This is my favorite blade for that sort of thing. It is fairly thin and flexes. If there is any crack between the stud and top plate, I can probably get that blade in there to cut the nails. Then pull the stud back a bit to wack the nails at the bottom. I'm able to reuse some of those studs. It cuts the nails off flush. I also used it when I was removing joists. On most of them I could get the blade to slide in between the joist and rim joist and wack the nails. Handy little blade.
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Worst part is, I have trouble finding the Bosch blade locally. Only way I can get it as Lowes is if I buy a multi-pack of 10-12 different blades (of which this one is 2 of 'em). Amazon sells a 50-pack of 'em, but that's more than I need. Maybe I'll get them from BIC.
My other favorite demo blade is the Milwaukee 12" Ax. It is a workhorse! But not nearly as much finesse! :)
Your progress pics look good, keep 'em coming.jt8
"One of the fondest expressions around is that we can't be the world's policeman. But guess who gets called when suddenly someone needs a cop." -- Colin Powell
Thanks Tate,
You described my preferred method of demo to a tee. I've used those high-dollar AXE blades and they are nice, 'bout twice as thick as a reg. metal cutting blade. Most of the time though I'll use whatever 9-in., 14tpi or finer blade I can get ahold of. The finer-toothed blades grab less which seems to allow for better tool control. Just my preferences, I'm sure there's someone out there that'd love a foot-long blade w/ 8 teeth total.
I tend to bend the regular sized blades. Get too close to something and the nose wacks something and bends the blade. You can straighten it out a couple times, but eventually it is too wiggly to cut straight with. The Ax blade doesn't tend to bend, it just kicks the Sawzall back.
But it sees less use as the demo stops and fixing starts.
[edit] So where's our fresh pics?
jt8
"One of the fondest expressions around is that we can't be the world's policeman. But guess who gets called when suddenly someone needs a cop." -- Colin Powell
Edited 2/7/2007 4:22 pm by JohnT8
Should get you something new tomorrow. Nothing spectacular I promise. Chuck S. doesn't even show much of his DW finishing, and his looks a heck of a lot better than mine.
Gonna order the hickory floor tomorrow and hopefully recieve next week. Planning to install as much as I can to keep busy and speed up the transition period later on.
Picking up the triple-track sliders for the screen porch tue.
Dangerously close to reaching an impass. Good thing we just picked up a fresh money-pit in NC to keep me busy.
Not much for ya today T8. Mostly fooling around with joint compound the last coupla days. Finally got primer up this PM. Also, did the elec. trim-out since we're still 2 months from a cabinet install.
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Starting to get a little crowded in here.
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This window is going to be replaced and moved about 2 feet to the left. Hopefully can get HO to give up that cabinet so I can do that little project one day next week.
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Another window to be located about 18 in. to the right of MW. New sink location will be centered on window. This one will obviously have to wait until the cab. install date draws closer.
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Thanks again for keeping the thread going. Nice work.
David,
Looking good. Can you finesse the end of that cab?
Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
I'll try Chuck, even though that POS deserves some TLC with an 8-pounder. Gonna run that by the missus this afternoon.
Been taping the ceiling/wall angles all day. Not much fun when the ceiling was stippled w/ durabond, and if that wasn't hard enough, they painted it as well. Point being, no amount of sanding/scraping will give me a flat surface to tape against. Will end up skimming the whole thing.
David.
I am dealing with a textured ceiling in the bedroom that adjoins 'Small Addition'. Fortunately they are almost 10' (9-11 1/8) so I plan to strap them with 1 X 3's, 16" OC (leveled and shimmed) screwed perpindicular to the joists, then sheetrock.
When I don't have a tall ceiling or new sheetrock is not in the budget, I install a crown molding and caulk it to the irregular ceiling.
BTW, Did the sliders for the screened porch arrive?
Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
Sliders are being ordered through my Statesville dist., won't be in until Thur., probably won't pick 'em up until next week. It's not like that porch is gonna see much action anytime soon. Besides, that's MY area right now--close to the kit./DR, and covered.
Most of the ceiling angle I'm taping will get covered by the wall cabs; they're going all the way to the top of the 95" ceiling. I'm just so particular that I don't want to see that horrendous joint or the filth that was behind the old cove molding.
I do have one place that is keeping me up at night. It seems that one of the 2x6 CJ's has an extreme crown, and 16" over from it is one that is crowned down. You can imagine what that look like now, and will only get worse with the cab. install.
Since it's most noticable about 16" from the wall, I'll probably have to open up from below to remedy. With only a 6/12 pitch, there's just no room to try to kerf and sister from up top. I shoulda strapped it, but that would have meant removing existing cabs. and I just can't do that to the HO 2 months early.
Been a little lax on my posting. Here's the catch-up of the last couple of weeks.
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After letting the floor acclimate about 3 1/2 days I was ready to install. Pulled up 2 layers of lino in the kit., and had to scrape off the padding from a previous glue-down in the DR before I could do anything.
First run of flooring is joist-fastened w/ #8x2.5" screws, next run gets blind-nailed with the trim nailer. By the time the 3rd run goes down, I've got room to use the Powernailer and give my left shoulder a vigorous workout.
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H.O. chose a prefinished 3.25" hickory. Good looking stuff, but the prefinish is crap IMHO. It's nowhere near as flat and seamless as finished-on-site hardwood. As far as I can tell, the finish aint all that tough either--which is supposed to be the big selling point on prefinished.
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With this part of the floor down I could set the pantry door, apply the casing on the back door, and run all the base & shoe. I 2-coated the shoe before it went down so all I had to do was touch-up the nail holes.
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All trimmed out and painted, ready for table & chairs. At least this part is usable while we wait on the cabinets.Live in the solution, not the problem.
David,That looks good. I like that paint color and looks like extra recepticals.I know what you mean about prfinished flooring. I try not to use it any more. You would think the quality control would be better.Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
David,
That is some great looking work. You, Chuck and Forrest are running a class on the picture threads. These threads along with Mike's are great tools for us metal types!
Thanks!
Thanks for the positive feedback Ernie. Truthfully, I feel blessed to even be able to showcase my stuff on the same forum as true talents like Mike, Forrest, and Chuck.Live in the solution, not the problem.
David,
When are you cabinets coming in?
Chuck S.
live, work, build, ...better with wood
Edited 3/21/2007 9:15 pm ET by stevent1
David,
Meant to send that to you not me.
Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
Chuck,
Cabinet guy is supposed to start in a couple of weeks. We'll see. In the meantime, I've started that other screen porch down in NC. Will try to get pix up soon. Such a PITA to imbed with dial-up.
PeaceLive in the solution, not the problem.
David,
Are you going to Bristol in the AM
Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
Yea, via PRN from the neck up. Afraid this wasn't the productive week I was hoping for, so I'll work 1/2 day on the new porch, come home and post pix, eat junk food, and enjoy 500 brutal laps from the fastest half-mile in the world.
Went there in '93, right after Kulwicki died outside of Kingsport. As was typical back then, it turned out to be the "Rusty Wallace Show". Lot of fun camping and "stuff".Live in the solution, not the problem.
I here ya,
Went in '83. Stayed in Bristol VA.Forgot who won and who I went with.
COT will win (Duh)
Pressure washed today. (Whole House) Paint next week.
Chuck S
live, work, build, ...better with wood
What's the #s of the Bosch blade? I see a couple of places with 5 packs and 25 packs.
What's the #s of the Bosch blade? I see a couple of places with 5 packs and 25 packs.
SHMF10
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Amazon lists a 5-pack ($14), but it's sold by BIC Superstore (so there's a s/h charge)
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-SHMF10-10-Inch-Bi-Metal-Recipricating/dp/B00020J1PS/sr=8-1/qid=1170883828/ref=sr_1_1/102-0368963-8656913?ie=UTF8&s=hi
It is also sold by Amazon directly, but that is a 50-pack for $82
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-10-Inch-Bi-Metal-Cutting-Recipricating/dp/B000FAIUXY/sr=8-2/qid=1170883828/ref=sr_1_2/102-0368963-8656913?ie=UTF8&s=hi
5 or 10 I could use, not 50! If I don't find anywhere better, I'll just go ahead and pay the s/h and get them via the BIC.
jt8
"One of the fondest expressions around is that we can't be the world's policeman. But guess who gets called when suddenly someone needs a cop." -- Colin Powell
I just took a look around and ? It's just one of those things that I get challenged on. Not so much the price but the principal.
I looked at Amoz and I had some stuff on the to buy list and i wanted to check out what's with the 1 month to ship? and look at the ? site listed on the same page, more clicking and a couple of other sites that are really Amoz stuff so here's a couple of ??? s
How quick do you need them. It's my belief knowing how amoz works that if you put it on order next thing you know it's shipped.
So the question is can you wait a little or do you need them tomorrow? Cause the 50 pack price brings it to ? 1.32 per blade which is hard to beat for a good blade or the 10.71 puts it at 2.14 so how can u not afford to buy the 50 pak. Kidding.
Use some crappy till the order fills? How many ya got cause you ought to see the bottom of my sawzall box, hhmmmm may be that's why it weighs like 30 pounds.
edit 50 pack =1.66 5 pack=2.09ea 14.53+5.70=20.23=4.04Per blade
Edited 2/7/2007 6:14 pm by ClaysWorld
Just a follow up on those Bosch flush-cut-metal blades:
I thought I was in luck a couple weeks ago at Lowes when I spotted, RFM10V
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Which looked VERY similar to my favorite SHMF10
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I quickly bought a 5-pack ($20) and put them to work. But the RFM10V is NO where near as good a blade! With the SHMF10, I could slip the blade between a stud/top-plate (or joist/rimjoist) and cut the nails holding the wood in place. the SHMH10 went through those nails very nearly like the proverbial hot knife through butter.
But the RFM10V has a different tooth pattern. It is NO where near as good at cutting through nails. You really have to work it to get it to chop through a nail. Most of the times I tried the between stud & top plate trick, the RFM10V instead of cutting the nail, would slide down the nail and start cutting into the stud.
IMHO, the RFM10V is good at cutting nothing but skin (through my own carelessness, I've got the scar to prove it).
The SHMF10 is still one of my all time favorite Sawzall blades. I think I'll send an email to Bosch and make sure the SHMF hasn't been retired. I sure hope the RFM isn't the replacement!
David, sorry for the hijack...now back to our regular programming.
jt8
"We ourselves feel that what we are doing is just a drop in the ocean. But the ocean would be less because of that missing drop."-- Mother Teresa
Edited 4/2/2007 4:13 pm by JohnT8
Google shows lots of sources for them..
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Google shows lots of sources for them.
Yeah, I can still find them online (Amazon even has a 50 pack), but they've dried up at the nearby stores. I've sent an email to Bosch customer service. If they tell me that the good one has been discontinued, I will stock up from online sources.
I'm probably only going through about 5-7 of 'em a year.
jt8
"We ourselves feel that what we are doing is just a drop in the ocean. But the ocean would be less because of that missing drop."-- Mother Teresa
Edited 4/3/2007 9:55 am by JohnT8
David, sorry for the hijack...now back to our regular programming.
No problem. I'm forever finding things that work for me (boots, tape measures, hammers, nail bags, clothes, etc.), only to have them discontinued before I can stock up. Hope that's not the case with your blades. Good luck.Live in the solution, not the problem.
Finally got back on this one Monday. Cabinet guy is almost ready to come and do final build measure, so I need to install 2 windows before then. One was pretty straight-forward, but the other is gonna be a bit of a challenge.
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Here's the easy one. Window will be located just to the right of the stove.
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This is by far my wrecking bar of choice. The leverage offered by that "hammerhead" shape is awesome. Plus, it's a real back saver, as you don't have to bend over as much. Try one if you get the chance.
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Trying to keep the kit. as funtional as possible, so I'm only demo-ing what I absolutely have to in order to install the new windows.
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Cut the nails on the old studs and removed. Built new header with king studs in place. Top plate is marked to indicate exact location of header.
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Top goes in first; bow the studs to get them up on the sole-plate, then knock over to the layout marks.
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Then it's just a matter of filling in the jacks, cripples, and sill(s).
Someone please turn these pictures 90 degrees to the right.Live in the solution, not the problem.
David,
It looks like you are keeping the kitchen functional till the cabs come in. That is always a challenge when adding widows and relocating plumbing.
Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
Hi David,
Here you go. Nice looking project so far. What's the name of that wrecking bar?
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Edited 4/12/2007 12:45 pm ET by FatRoman
Thanks Roman,
This bar is a Fulton, but I've had Stanleys in the past as well as no-names from Northern Hyd. that worked great once I had the head re-welded.
I fell in love with them on a concrete forming job where the forms were fastened down with 16d double-headed nails. It was a real back saver when it came time to strip the forms.Live in the solution, not the problem.
Thanks David,I liked the looks of that bar. I'll have to keep an eye out for one like it.Best,
Steve
David,
That is a nice bar. When no finesse is involved I use this one.
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Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
Chuck, that looks like a close cousin to my Gorilla Bar. That Gorilla bar has saved me a lot of trouble. Takes a 3.5" 16d out of an old joist like nobody's business. And about 101 other uses.
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jt8
"We ourselves feel that what we are doing is just a drop in the ocean. But the ocean would be less because of that missing drop."-- Mother Teresa
David,
Those cabs coming in or do they have to make them from scratch?
Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood