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Disconnect condensing unit

tkiser | Posted in Energy, Heating & Insulation on May 31, 2009 11:57am

I am fixing a crack in a foundation. I need to remove the condensing unit what is the best way to do this with out loosing freon. I have a set of gauges I assume the red=small line, blue=big line, yellow=freon.  Do I crimp the lines? HELP

My HVAC guy just called be back. He said to do the following: <!—-><!—-><!—->

1.      Close the small line completely<!—-><!—->

2.      When the gauge on the big line (Suction) is near zero shut that one off too. <!—-><!—->

3.      Disconnect the power (Remove the breaker)<!—-><!—->

     4.Crimp the lines close enough so when he comes out to reinstall the unit there is ample room for him to solder. Make sure to crimp them tight.


Edited 5/31/2009 6:13 pm ET by tkiser

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  1. DanH | Jun 01, 2009 12:10am | #1

    Hire an HVAC outfit to come and suck out the freon.

    As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz
  2. JTC1 | Jun 01, 2009 12:32am | #2

    What DanH said.

    Jim

    Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
  3. DaveRicheson | Jun 01, 2009 01:33am | #3

    Follow up on what dan said.

    The compressor suction will not pull aenough of a vacum on the A-coil to be a legal recovery. even after you valve off both line  there is still gas in the coil/lines. When you cut the line, you are venting that gas to the atmosphere.

    Illegal and fineable.

    $300 - $400 will get it done right with a full recovery,vacum pull after reinstalled, nitrogen leak check and purge, then a recharge with d-superheat check.

  4. USAnigel | Jun 01, 2009 02:39am | #4

    Could you build a frame over it and suspend it, save disconnecting it.

  5. alwaysoverbudget | Jun 01, 2009 05:05am | #5

    first ,color of your lines mean nothing,they can be moved around. look at your gauges,one will have a top reading of 120 lbs or in that field. thats low pressure.i like for a blue hose to be on this one.

    now the other gauge will go to about 350-400lbs thats your high pressure.i prefer the red hose on this side.

    your low pressure connects to the biggest tube with a fitting. the high goes to the small one [3/8 copper?]

    middle fitting goes to a freon tank to charge thru the gauges. never put freon in the high side,the tank could explode and you won't have to worry about how the air is working................

    now as far  as un hooking the unit,you can save some thats in the condensor,but you will lose all thats in the lines and a coil.so when your done you will need a hvac guy to come out ,resolder the lines,vacum and charge,my guess is 500.00.plus a couple hundred to reclaim when you unhook it. for 1300 i can usally get a new unit installed! so this better be a pretty new unit to even mess with.

    so plan b, like someone said is there any way to build a a-frame over the unit and pick it up out of the way without unhooking it.

    YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T
    MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE
    DUCT TAPE.

  6. junkhound | Jun 01, 2009 06:22am | #6

    for him to solder

    hope he brazes vs. solder, N2 purge of opened areas, etc...

    Other option is for you to get your EPA license, DIY..  A 609 is sufficient if you DO NOT EVER do any R22 work FOR HIRE, need a 608 otherwise.  For $400 you can likely get used recovery equipment and vacuum equip off ebay, then you have the skill and equipment for life.

    1. plate | Jun 01, 2009 02:54pm | #7

      Since you mentioned it, What equipment would one need specifically.  Using the 410A refrigerant (if memory serves me right is the most recent type).

       

       

       

       

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