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Dishwasher ruff in

Treetalk | Posted in Energy, Heating & Insulation on June 30, 2009 02:48am

Im roughing in a new kitchens supply and waste lines. Dishwasher can not be near sink cabinet cause of shape and room issues. In running waste lines I assume ill have tap into sink 1 1/2″ waste line downstream and put a trap in but isnt there a issue about having drain line entrance higher than drain in dishwasher which is how usually works when sharing sink drain ? I have room for pop up vent in cabinet next to dishwasher so i can side inlet into a riser .

For supply I guess ill “t” off my pex cold line and have a dedicated shutoff for it.

Does this all sound right? 

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  1. JTC1 | Jun 30, 2009 04:56am | #1

    >> For supply I guess ill "t" off my pex cold line and have a dedicated shutoff for it.<<

    Every dishwasher I have ever installed wanted a hot water supply. Maybe not all. 

    I never questioned the manufacturer as to what would happen by supplying cold water --- cheaper for me to heat HW with gas than with the electric heater in the DW.  My DW will not start the cycle until the water reaches temperature X. Fills, heats to temp X, then starts.

    Not sure of proper handling of drain when the DW is remote from sink drain.

    My typical drain install is hose from DW looped to underside of counter then through the side of the sink base cabinet, into garbage disposer inlet or into a barbed tailpiece from the sink. DW drain inlet is always higher than the drain line on either the disposer or the barbed tailpiece.

    Jim

    Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
    1. Treetalk | Jun 30, 2009 01:27pm | #2

      Oops.. meant hot. Yeah why pay to heat it twice.

      Yes guess Ill just create my own barbed tail piece closer to dw.

  2. rdesigns | Jun 30, 2009 05:00pm | #3

    If you can sneak the drain line thru the cabinets, like at the back, behind drawers and in the upper back corner behind doors, then I wouldn't rough in the drain at all--I would run the drain after cabinets are set. This is because you will always have reasonably good access to the drain line for repair/replacement.

    If you must run it where it will always be concealed, use PEX or poly line for its longevity as opposed to the rubbery stuff that is often sold for DW drains

    If your local code requires it, you may need to run the drain thru an airgap fitting mounted on the sink deck. Alternatively, some codes allow you to just run the drain hose up high under the countertop before it connects to the drain tubing for the sink.

     

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