FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

dismantling a chimney

Cyan | Posted in General Discussion on January 27, 2009 06:41am

Hi

Another demo question. I need to dismantle an interior chimney before having our house raised. Three flues on a two story home. Really don’t want to destroy the interior in the process. Any tips?

Thanks, Lorne

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. jimblodgett | Jan 27, 2009 06:53am | #1

    Is there a clean out door at the bottom?

     

    1. Cyan | Jan 27, 2009 06:57am | #2

      Small one, few feet off the ground.

      1. jimblodgett | Jan 27, 2009 07:07am | #3

        It's pretty easy to drop bricks down through the chimney and remove them through the clean out door.  Keeps the mess inside the chimney, and of course, near that door. 

        1. Piffin | Jan 27, 2009 05:16pm | #11

          Normally, yes, but a three flue chimney is a LOT to be dropping to a small cleanout. I foresee blockage 

           

          Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          1. Cyan | Jan 27, 2009 08:03pm | #12

            Thanks guysWe have a professional house moving company raising the structure. It's pretty straight forward, but owners are required to prepare the building for the lift.... which includes removing all chimneys. (Provincial fire regulations evidently). I would like to save a little money by doing as much prep work as possible. I have a builder engaged for the big stuff.The chimney is plastered upstairs which will have to go regardless. Worried about falling bricks and the hardwood floors primarily. Downstairs will be gutted so no problem making a mess. I also wondered if throwing them all down the hole might lead to a blockage. The idea of sliding then up and out is intriguing however... might give it a shot. Sounds like a combination of all your ideas is the way to go.Thanks again, Lorne

          2. Piffin | Jan 27, 2009 08:08pm | #13

            Since it is plastered and exposed it will be a cinch.Do follow somebodies suggestion top make that hole in the cellar larger to avoid things choking up. Then start at top and chute to the dumpster as much as possible.
            Find out WHICH flue drops all the way to the basement first and try to see if it is a straight flue by placeing a light at bottom and looking down.You will very definitely want good gloves eye protection, and dust masks. The black soot is not healthy to get in your lungs. 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          3. DanH | Jan 28, 2009 12:55am | #15

            Yeah, try to haul out the clean, whole bricks vs dropping them, and definitely if you get chunks of 2-3-4 bricks don't drop those. Reserve the flue for the cr@p that would make a mess otherwise.Consider putting plywood or rubber mats on the nicer floors, just in case, and use plastic to partition off the area to limit the spread of dust.
            The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith

  2. MikeRyan | Jan 27, 2009 08:36am | #4

    Don't start from the bottom!

     

     

    Sorry, adding to what was already said, but pulling out the cleanout door to make a larger exit space will keep everything contained.  Place a piece of 3/4 ply and taped visqueen in front of the opening.

    Another idea is to back the dumpster as close to the chimney an possible to avoid haveing to move the material twice

    1. Cyan | Jan 27, 2009 10:28am | #5

      Thanks guysThis makes good sense. Clean out is in basement however... which would involve humping the bricks back up 7ft of stairs to the dumpster. I'm thinking I can sluice the top stuff off the roof straight into the bin, then do as you suggest to get it under ceiling. Should be pretty straight forward process to the floor level.... Lorne

    2. ruffmike | Jan 27, 2009 04:53pm | #9

       As Hunter Thompson once said

      I would not advise it to anyone, but it worked for me.

       Before our house was raised (about 4 feet) I had to remove the chimneys it was easy 'til it got into the walls and couldn't be reached.

       I went down below, and with a sledge hammer took a couple of swipes at it.

       After the dust cleared (about a half an hour)it was a simple process to carry the bricks out.

       100 year old chimney built by the seaside with poor sand mortar.                            Mike

          Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.

  3. User avater
    johnpjackson | Jan 27, 2009 11:51am | #6

    Ohh!!!! Now I get it. I thought you meant raized, in which case I wondered why you cared about the interior!! :)

    Now I'm sure you mean you're raising it up off the foundation?

    I wonder about that someday, if my double walled brick foundation begins to get too powdery...

    1. jpeeks | Jan 30, 2009 05:00am | #22

      Ha Ha I was thinking the same thing.

  4. DanH | Jan 27, 2009 02:30pm | #7

    Keep in mind that often the chimney is actually the surface of the interior wall, so it will be exposed as you work. (And occasionally the structure actually bears on the chimney -- something to look out for.) If it's been framed around you'll have to open up at least one wall to get too it, of course. If not framed around then you'll probably have plaster to remove, but try to remove several courses of bricks first, then pry the plaster loose in large chunks.

    As the others have said -- knock the loose cr@p down through the flues. But it works out pretty well to hump the clean bricks out in buckets, rather than dropping them. In snow country use a plastic child's sled to haul the bricks from house to dumping place.

    Usually the mortar is pretty soft, from the action of thee acids in the flue gasses, though often the top has been repointed and is the hardest part to crack (literally). It's not unusual to be able to simply lift the brick out (with maybe a slight hammer tap) once you get below the roof.

    When it goes right it's amazing how little of a mess it makes.

    The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
  5. junkhound | Jan 27, 2009 04:52pm | #8

    If ya dont want to hump the bricks up the stairs, build youself a 20 ft chute with a 1x12 and 2x12, line with a roll of sheet metal - chute'em right into the dumpster or truck.

  6. Piffin | Jan 27, 2009 05:14pm | #10

    Houses get moved and raised with chimneys in them regularly. Is there some extenuation circumstances that dictate removing it?

    Are you raising the house as a DIY project or have professionals?

     

     

    Welcome to the
    Taunton University of
    Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
     where ...
    Excellence is its own reward!

  7. mike4244 | Jan 27, 2009 10:38pm | #14

    Set up a safe scaffold so you can remove the coping and bricks.Start at the top,send bricks down in a bucket on a rope .If you rent a scaffold also get an outrigger and wellwheel to send the bricks down.Any loose mortar can be pushed into the flue.

    Make sure the fireplace opening is boarded up tight first.Usually just a tap on the brick with a 3Lb hammer will loosen the brick.The fireplace can be put back with most of the material saved if you wanted to.Then you would clean each brick with a brick chisel and wire brush when they are on the ground.

    Before you set up inside, cover the floor with either masonite or homosote. Keep a shop vaccumn handy and clean up dust often.The dust is gritty and will scratch the floors if left there. Once you get off the roof the rest will go fast.Wear a dust mask ,goggles and heavy gloves.

    mike

    1. DanH | Jan 28, 2009 12:57am | #16

      And if there are any thimbles with the tin covers on them, don't trust those to keep the dust under control. Solidly duct-tape plastic over the thimbles.
      The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith

  8. PaulO | Jan 28, 2009 02:42am | #17

    put down 3/4" plywood floor protection to save the floors

    1. LIVEONSAWDUST | Jan 28, 2009 03:45am | #18

      I seem to recall a story in FHB on back page (great moments) where somebody removed their chimney.......BOTTOM FIRST, Anybody recall that? 

      1. Shoemaker1 | Jan 28, 2009 04:38am | #19

        I read that taking a chimney down is the #1 killer of home owners. Do Not Take it down from the bottom. Don't Just Don't
        Read the Darwin Awards online for details.

        1. Piffin | Jan 29, 2009 11:24pm | #20

          The primary killer of HOs is stairs, specifically piling junk on them and then trying to naviugate teh junk 

           

          Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

  9. WorkshopJon | Jan 29, 2009 11:40pm | #21

    CYAN,

    Been there and done it.

     

    A forty foot chimney should take about two hours.  The tools you need are two drywall buckets for when you get below the roof line (two are easier to carry than one. A really cheap (think made in China $7.00 HF special) impact gun, AND start from the top down using a pointed bit. Oh, clothes you can through away.

     

    WSJ

  10. dockelly | Jan 30, 2009 07:08am | #23

    Hey Cyan,

    Read all 23 posts prior to responding. Did the same thing last year at the Jersey shore. I got on the roof with a 2lb sledge and masonry chisel. Never had to swing the hammer. Just picked off the bricks and threw them into the yard. Once I was indoors I used a demolition hammer I had rented, made quick work of the project. I should point out, the chimney was completely exposed, not running behind some wall or plaster. There was a lot of dust, wear a mask.

    Kevin

    1. Cyan | Jan 30, 2009 07:40am | #24

      Thanks everyoneI'm confident I can pull this demo off now. Just waiting on building permits before swinging ( or perhaps not swinging) hammer.Lorne

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

FHB Summit 2025 — Design, Build, Business

Join some of the most experienced and recognized building professionals for two days of presentations, panel discussions, networking, and more.

Featured Video

SawStop's Portable Tablesaw is Bigger and Better Than Before

The 10-in. Jobsite Saw PRO has a wider table, a new dust-control port, and a more versatile fence, along with the same reliable safety mechanism included in all SawStop tablesaws.

Related Stories

  • How Trump's “Big Beautiful Bill” Will Affect the Inflation Reduction Act
  • A Drip-Free, Through-Window Heat Pump
  • Podcast Episode 690: Sharpening, Wires Behind Baseboard, and Fixing Shingle Panels
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Hand Tool Sharpening Tips

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Old House Journal – August 2025
    • Designing the Perfect Garden Gate
    • Old House Air-Sealing Basics
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data