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Dismantling Barns

| Posted in Construction Techniques on February 3, 2002 03:44am

*
I’ve run across a cool old barn that has seen better days. I want to approach the owner about taking it off his hands. I’d like to dismantle it and put it back together at a different location, but I’ve never done anything like this. I’d like to do some reading about how you take an old barn apart with out tearing it up, how you track what you’re doing so you can put it all back together again, etc.

Anybody know of books, magazine articles, articles on the web, etc. where I can get some education?

In searching the web I’ve run across many outfits that do this as a business (mostly on the East Coast). I want to do this myself (just for the fun of it, and to save costs).

Todd Winter
Portland, OR
[email protected]

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Replies

  1. Rez_ | Jan 16, 2002 03:48am | #1

    *
    b Another homeowner. One day we will rule the world.

    Hi Todd, never done one of those but always wanted to. I would think to make sure I had no time restraints on the dismantling. Time pressure can ruin a labor of love like this. Just my $.02.

    1. crosscutt_ | Jan 16, 2002 07:49am | #2

      *Todd, I've been on the reassmbly end and what I've seen done is the guys who take the thing down label all timber framing north, south, east and west and then numerically label framing with evens on the left and odds on the right or vice versa, it's been awhile. When you get to erecting such a thing it still has to meet code, which might be a bitch depending on where you are located. I would check with the building inspector first. Wear a respirator. Good Luck.cc

      1. bill_dalton | Jan 16, 2002 03:09pm | #3

        *Todd Yes, It can be done . I have done several; actually it's what I do..I'm in the old house/barn business.How big is the barn? What type of constuction (nailed or true mortise type?Is there plenty of room around the barn? Do you have any equipment or a big group of strong backs? Are there any Amish up there? They are good at this sort of thing. Anyhow give me some particulars and I'll help as much as I can from here in MD. Bill D. QWC

        1. Art_B. | Jan 16, 2002 04:07pm | #4

          *A neighbor in Lewis Co. WA used this technique to take off the outer boards quickly without splitting them. Old barn wood brought good prices in 1970,s due to fad for barn wood kitchen cabinets. (>$1 BF then)Build a light platform in the center of the barn on the floor and in the loft that centers the top of the platform in the room, or tie string from ceiling for same location. Place 1/3 to 1/2 stick of dynamite on each platform or hang from string & detonate electrically from safe distance. Worked great. Average DIY has not been able to buy dynamite in this state since 1971, but a large innertube full of an oxy acetylene mix should work also.

          1. Scott_R | Jan 16, 2002 06:32pm | #5

            *Art, I would love to see that! ;-)Scott R.

          2. Joe_Hennessey | Jan 16, 2002 07:26pm | #6

            *Art, do inner tubes work better than plastic trash bags? The bags are light enough to float and with a nice tp wick they're pretty impressive. What's the inner tube result like?Suspect this would probably get one in a whole bunch of trouble now. Joe H

          3. bill_dalton | Jan 16, 2002 09:25pm | #7

            *Art B. When I split logs for hand-split clapboards I use a small soup can as a measuring cup. About 1/2 to 2/3 can of pirodexe (modern black powder). If you pack it tight works just as good as the dynamite. The logs I split are 2-4' dia. and 12-16' long fresh cut white oak. Light the fuse and WALK away quickly never run , you'll fall and hurt yourself .Log jumps in the air about 2' and comes down in 2 nice neat halves. Next barn I move I'll give it a try. The pirodexe is completely legal I buy it at the local hurting store along with the canon fuse. The first time I had a bunch logs to split I went to the store and in the process of buying 2-3lbs of the pirodexe another guy was there with his black powder rifle and look hard at me and said " Bad shot, huh, mister?". He got a smile when I told him that I wasn't hunting and said he had acouple of logs he might try it with. Bill D. QWC

          4. Boss_Hog | Jan 16, 2002 09:32pm | #8

            *Blowing things up is lotsa fun. Used to do that in the army 'bout 20 years ago and really enjoyed it. Never heard of trying it on a barn though. Maybe we could practice blowing things up at the next petefest ???

          5. Andy_Engel_ | Jan 16, 2002 11:12pm | #9

            *I want to go to your parties, Bill.Andy

          6. Art_B. | Jan 17, 2002 11:47pm | #10

            *Bill:Do you pack the pyrodex into drilled holes or??I've read in old Pac. NW logging descriptions that they used to drill/insert full sticks of dynamite into a hole every few feet into 12 ft dia logs and use that to split it so they could jack it down to the river or skid it out. Joe:Under pressure in inner tube so holds lots more mass of explosive mix. Have done 1 ft dia balloons but never an innertube after wife told me her cousin did a tractor tube in North Dakota one 4th July about 200 ft from the house - blew in a few windows. I'll have to try the trash bag next 4th. Those N. Dakota in-laws are crazier than me. Like you say, a balloon or trash bag is impressive enough, louder (and sharper crack) than a .50 BMG round.

          7. bill_dalton | Jan 18, 2002 05:04am | #11

            *Art B. I use my chain saw to cut a kerf/hole half way down the lenght . 14' log measure 7' and cut a slice down to the heart ; MUST be to the heart or slightly past or will split off center. I do confess to using almost veneer grade logs for the clapboard. Then I cut a lenght of fuse twice the depth of the hole ,fold the fuse and put the loop end into the hole so two ends are sticking out of the hole. Next pour in the pyrodex ( thanks for the sp? check). Then pack with just about anything ,I use hyd. lime because it packs well and lite the fuse. The more twisted the log the more powder. I did have one BIG ches. oak that only cracked a bit and had to finish it by hand.And I ALWAYS alert the local shierff, to let them and the neighbors as to when the boom is to be. Although it's about as loud as the little canons used to start the sailboat races.Bill D. QWC

          8. rbishop_ | Feb 03, 2002 03:44pm | #12

            *Todd,I've helped on a number of barn takedowns. It's always nice if you can arrange to have a crane on site for takedown, which means you have to do all your prep work first. Like stripping the siding, removing any roofing material, etc. If it's mortise and tenon construction, then pound out all the pegs if you can, drill them as a last resort. Don't cut off any tenons in a rush to get it down.If no crane, then I'd suggest setting staging w,adjustable feet in the 4 corners under primary beams. This way you can adjust the staging to take the load of the barn. Then you can take out beams one by one knowing that the barn isn't going to fall down. We've used this technique with good success.You'll need ropes, straps, come-alongs, and lot's of common sense. Go slow, thinking out every decision, i.e., if I do this, what will that do????When are you going to do this? I'm flying out to Portland 2/23/02. Rod

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