This was attached to a furnace blower I snagged. Belt driven Sq. Cage.
I’m fixing to use it to move woodstove heat from upstairs back down to where we spend more time, a plenum and all that.
This LOOKS like a transformer from a thermostat, or is it a speed controller? I’d like to be able to slow the blower or speed it as needed, it’s an A.O. White motor 110V.
Plan to use an attic fan thermostat, so when the upstairs reaches 90, I can suck or push it back down and to a small duct to another area.
But I don’t what this part is.
Any help here?
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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It is a transformer and you can see some LV wires comming off the front of it.
But I am not sure what that is on the right side. My guess is that it is a relay.
Take the cover off the right side and take a picture from the front.
The black and white wires on the left are power to the transformer.
And it looks like LV blue for a relay coil go to the front of the assemble.
And the 3 wires on the fastons out the right side are switch 120 lines.
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
It's not gonna matter I think, I have it running, but its cycles on for a few seconds and then shuts off for a few mnutes, the thermal OL is kicking out.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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It's called a fan center. It's original intended use was to enable the addition of central air conditioning to a forced air furnace. All it really is is a transformer and relay in one neat package. If you are going to use a line voltage thermostat then you can eliminate it, otherwise you can use the thermostat to jumper the R and G terminals to cause the fan to run. Haven't installed one of those in more years than I care to admit.
It may be for naught anyway at this time, I just hung it behind and above the stove as a test run ( heavy suckker) and it is just plugged in to a wall outlet.The motor works as designed, it cut out from it's thermal overload ( it says on the motor it is so equipped) after a short run time, then restarts. I think theheat from the woodstove is causing a confusion, it ran great on the shop floor.So either I swap out the motor or move it farther away from the heat I am trying to move. I think.I didn't get the thermostat yet , wanted to see if my plan would work first..I guess I got some more head scratching to do.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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It's tripping out due to too much load. There is a low-budget remedy.
Take a small piece if sheetmetal, 12x12 or so, drill a hole in one corner big enough to clear the threads on a sheetmetal screw. What you are going to do is block off part of the intake to the fan. To do this, drive the screw through the drilled hole and into the fan housing on the in such a way that it will let the sheetmetal be pivoted crating a "valve" for the airflow. Do this opposite the belt side.
Now you are ready, put the meter on the motor lead and start the fan, adjust the sheetmetal until the amp draw of the motor is below the motor's rating. Turn off the motor drive a few more screws, pretty it up, etc. Done.
Aha!!!!!I don't have a meter, but I got some experiment time.Still need to slow it down some, maybe bigger pulley, cuz man, it moves some air!
Thanks, I'm on it.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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On the right track.
I screwed a hunk of copper over half of the belt side, the shaft goes thru both sides so I guess it don't matter, that side was easier to get to. It ran then kept running, but then quit. So I added some copper ( 1/2 the opening) on the other side. Waiting for it to reset now.I used "M&M's" or steel stud screws, so its easy to adjust again.Fingers crossed.
ThanksSpheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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You can also block off the outlet.
May need to. Now it runs longer, but still quits after 2 mins.The outlest is easier to get at for sure, I have it hanging from a joist in the dog trot , just 44" between the log walls.So I take it y'all are saying it needs some kinda static back pressure or similar?I ran the wind trunks from blowers for pipe organs and I seem to recall we had both bellows weights and valves called "Schwimmers" that regulated out the pulsing of the of the windstream from the big impeller type blowers. And it was a closed system ( until a pipe was played) and we nevr had these issues with the motors.
Hmmm.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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That was it. I spring clamped a furnace filter over the outlet,a nd shes been running along 12 mins. now.
T'anks.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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All the restrictions do is lower the amount of air moved by the fan. Your ductwork will also provide some restriction, that is what provided the restriction originally. This has the effect of lowering the workload on the motor. Bigger airflows take bigger motors and draw more power.
Once you have the ductwork ran you may want to throttle it back further in order to raise the temperature of the air it moves, but that would be your call, you know how you fire your woodstove. Skin temperature is about 86* so anything cooler feels cold. Don't worry about cooking the motor, in the old counterflow systems those motors ran for years in 130 to 150 deg, air for extended periods of time.
Well thats great news. I started it at 4 pm yesterday, and it ran all night and most of the morning ( I left for work the DW unplugged it at some point). Funny waking up at 0400 an hearing it run, and freezing my butt off..LOL The fire had died way down, and the fan of course didn't care.So on my way home I snagged an attic fan thermostat that I wire up tonite. It should kick on at 90 or so and off below that. I know I'll have to exp. with placement and temp settings.It made a HUGE difference in here yesterday, even w/out any plenum yet..I'm psyched, this is gonna make life a lot more comfortable. Closest thing to central heat we've had in 7 yrs.
Thanks to all youse for the pointers.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB