Do most drywallers fur walls as “necessary” or ..
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Do most drywallers fur walls as “necessary” or do they reliy on framers to have gotten this aspect rigth nad drywall as is?
I am talking about a new construction custom home.
I know I have several badly bowed studs that I am sure would result in a wild wall if drywalled straight over them.
Is this something I need to address myself, cut out badly bowed studs, plane them down, fur them out, etc.?
I am sure I can talk to the drywall contractors submitting bids, but I am looking for a heads up on what to expect from them.
Thanks everyone.
Replies
Not necessarily
No. Most drywallers deal with drywall. Most framers deal with framing. However, some drywallers are also good framers and vice versa. Depends on who is willing to deliver the performance level you are expecting in a contract. You need to be specific and objective in your expectation and contract terms if you are expecting someone to deliver on your terms without a dispute. For example: "wild" is a subjective description while "a maxium deviation in wall plane of 1/4" in 32-inches" is an objective performance description...and also reasonable for a custom home.
If you are acting as your own GC then it is on you to either convince the framers (most likely will not happen) to replace the 2x's you are refering to, or do it yourself.
If you are not acting as your own GC then you need to communicate your concern with the GC and request a solution, if he is not a POS he should address your concern.
The sheetrockers will come in and be out before you know it. They will more than likely make any changes you request for an additional fee but i have never seen a sheetrocker fur when not told to...if you find one that does, send me their contact!
heh, heh
drywaller defiitions:
1. fur a low spot - leave a few screws out
2 fur a high spot - 'maybe' add a few screws at the edges if the edge wants to pull up too much.
heh, heh drywaller
deleted duplicate - super slow server?
Straightening studs.
Make a saw kerf with a skill saw into the high side of the stud. Toe nail down through the kerf to pull the two sides of the kerf together. This will straighten out most crooked studs. Some times you might need two kerfs. Drywall shims are thin cardboard that come in large packages. These will do alot to raise low spots.
Depends on the contracts
Normally, how true the wall needs to be is in the framers contract. They are the ones nailing it together and choosing what wood goes where. Through application of their skill the framers have the best chance to build it true and plumb. If the performance section of their contract is too loose, they will do a less than quality job. It may meet code, but be a real pain to attach finishes too.
The drywall guys can shim and shave. But don't typically want to, and charge accordingly.
Thanks Everyone
All responses were about what I expected.
I am the GC and jack of most of the trades as well. I will not be teh drywaller. I will likely spend a day or two running a round with a straight edge and end up will walls much flater than neccessary with a lot of work. I love teh work, but eh problem with only doing many of these jobs once is that one does not know what "is good enough", what will you see and what will you not notice. So everything comes out "more perfect" than necessary.
Thanks for the saw kerf tip, could be easier than a power planer which fixes one side and then leaves the other side bowed. I will give it a try.
Studs are inexpensive. Sometimes it's easier to knock one out and put in another. The area where you really want to get picky is in the kitchen. Hanging continuous cabinets is a lot nicer on a flat wall.
And add blocking for nailers wherever you think you may need it. There's never enough blocking.