Door closer won’t let door open all way
Hmmm, I find myself in yet another situation that I’ve not encountered before. I installed a storm door for someone. It’s hard to describe this other than to say that the mounting bracket for the door closer that you mount to the door jamb, is supposed to be about 1/4″ from the Z bar hinge of the door. But the way the exterior door jambs are constructed I can’t do that. I have to set the bracket back much further, almost 1 to 1.5 inches or thereabouts. The natural end result is that as you open the storm door it’ll open 3/4 of the way and suddenly jerk to a dead stop. Can’t go any farther with it. That’s not good.
I checked HD to see if they made a longer armed closer but saw only standard sizes. I’m not quite sure what to do, if I can do anything at all. Ideas? Or do I talk the HO into using a chain/spring linkage?
Replies
Move the other end 1 to 1 1/2" closer to the hinge side of the door. The piston arm is reaching the end of its' travel and stopping the outward swing of the door to soon.
Dave
I had this exact problem. And my "figuring/troubleshooting" led me to do just what you said. I was then able to open the door a full 90°. However when shutting the door, it stops about 3 inches short of fully closing. The piston was fully retracted. Gonna hafta go with the fella that said adding a block to be able to put bracket ¼" from the door.
Why does the jamb configuration preclude you from mounting the bracket that 1/4'' away?
I've had to make up blocks before that gave me a flat spot to attach the bracket in the proper spot. I don't think you can change the pivot point too much w/o stopping the travel in the wrong spot.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Sometimes common sense escapes me. I COULD have cut a block to fill the gap in the jamb so I could put it 1/4" as required. I didn't think of it until Igot up this morning, and then here is your post. I'm embarassed.If at first you don't succeed, try using a hammer next time...everything needs some extra persuasion from time to time. -ME
Hey, too much chocolate does that to a guy.
I should know.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I installed two storm doors several weeks ago. I think they're difficult to install. One of the two doors went pretty smoothly while the second door was pretty difficult. I may have spent 10 hours on the problem door.I had the same problem you're describing in addition to others. The door manufacturer assumes the door trim is at least 1 inche thick and on my door it was not. I had to shim out the trim to make the z bar fit properly.My door was out of plumb and the bottom of the door would not close tight. So I took the door out and added shims and blocking to the door trim to make it plumb.When I got ready to install the door handles it called for a 7/16 spade bit and a 3/4 spade bit to drill through the metal skin of the door.Maybe I'm wrong but I thought spade bits were strictly for wood boring.How many people have 7/16 and 3/4 metal bits in their tool box? I know I didn't. I fell over when I saw the price $20 to $30 for each of these bits.I ended up buying a bit that is used to drill metal and has 5-10 different sizes all in one bit. I've seen these bits on the custom motorcycle shows. I paid about $35 for it at home cheapo.The two doors I installed were larson brand and they seem like they're pretty nice doors.++++++++++++++++
-Do the thing you fear and the death of fear is certain-
If you have a spade bit with outer cutters that extend beyond the flats a bit ( I think IRWIN are like that) it'll do the job of piercing the skin..don't try to drill all the way thru where the flats are trying to shave metal. Drill from both sides.
Also, if ya have a mandrel for holesaws, almost any size hole saw is easy enuf to get.
The UniBIT that you have is a real good addition to the arsenal tho' I never regretted getting 3 of them many yrs ago. You'd be suprised how many uses you'll find for them.
We recently made racks for our trailer out of 1.5" and 2" sq. steel tubing..needed a slew of 3/4 holes..after using a Silver and Demming I think it is called, and my RT angle drill..my arms were killing me after a few holes. Switched to the step bits and was drilling with one hand..BIG difference.
Your experience mirrors mine the other day with a Larson storm door. My friend (a retired window & door company owner) and I started at 9:00 am and finished around 4:00 pm. No "pre-hung" frame, needed to attach the hinges to the Z frame (and no tolerance here for error), needed to drill your own door latch holes with drill bits sizes not normally stocked, a template that I failed to catch a "fold here" crease, etc. and all this working in 15 degree weather. Larson reduced their manufacturing costs and the retailer's stocking costs, by having the installer attach the hinges and drill the door handle holes. After that experience, I’ll be careful bidding on another storm door job.<!----><!----><!---->
If they drilled the handles and mounted the hinges, the doors would be handed and that would confuse a lot of people at HD.
Its only aluminum and the spade bits work fine. I usually mount the jamb bracket 1/2" from the door to give a little more room for the screws to hold.