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Door hanging jig?

davidmeiland | Posted in Tools for Home Building on June 8, 2004 11:17am

I’ve got a batch of exterior doors to pre-hang and it’s probably about time to buy a setup for guiding the router while mortising for hinges. I’ve seen P-C and (I think) Bosch setups for that purpose. Any comments on those? Anyone using something else?

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  1. User avater
    NickNukeEm | Jun 08, 2004 11:41pm | #1

    I have the PC, and every time I get it out to use it, I scratch my head and just do it the old fashioned way, well, with a router and chisel, anyway.  Mine is missing parts, which helps explain my hesitation to use it.

    The subject has been through here before and if I remember, it runs close to 50-50, with the Bosch boys having a slight edge.  Haven't used the Bosch, so I can't say how well it works.

    I never met a tool I didn't like!
    1. joeh | Jun 09, 2004 01:46am | #2

      Bosch probably works a lot better than a PC with missing pieces?

      Home made jig, birch ply and hardwood edge aligner.

      Joe H

  2. JohnSprung | Jun 09, 2004 02:21am | #3

    If they're all the same height and you don't anticipate doing more of other heights in the forseeable future, then a one-shot plywood jig is probably the economical choice.  I looked at them when I was doing my casement windows, and ended up making five plywood jigs instead.

    -- J.S.

  3. gdavis62 | Jun 09, 2004 02:26am | #4

    This has come up before, and someone said, and I believe it, "Templaco is the way to go."

    View Image

    Go to their site and see for yourself.



    Edited 6/8/2004 7:28 pm ET by Bob Dylan

    1. davidmeiland | Jun 09, 2004 03:13am | #5

      I actually have one of those that does the 3-1/2" hinges for interior doors. Works great and I've never nicked it with the router yet. They don't have them for sale anywhere around here and something adjustable and easily transportable might make sense.... but so far no die-hard metal jig users...

      1. Snort | Jun 09, 2004 04:24am | #6

        I've used both the Bosch and PC, and the Bosch always seemed easier to set up. Once set they both work the same. They also can be set up to make mating mortises for existing doors and jambs. It doesn't look like that Tempalco is adjustable for that, is it?

        If you're making the frames up, I've found it's easier to use a homemade jig that let's you do the door and jamb at the same time ...zip, zop<G> Don't worry, we can fix that later!

        1. Sancho | Jun 09, 2004 04:57pm | #8

          Oh toolcrib (amazon sells them also) 

          Darkworksite4:

          El americano pasado hacia fuera ase la bandera

      2. Sancho | Jun 09, 2004 04:56pm | #7

        I cant believe Im saying this bbbuuutttt ggguullppp....

        The Home D and Blowes sells them. I get mine from a local lumber yard. they also sell individual single templates as well as the 3 ,4" hinge templates...  

        Darkworksite4:

        El americano pasado hacia fuera ase la bandera

  4. jurvater | Jun 09, 2004 05:24pm | #9

    My contractor abandoned the project half way through so I was left with completing the job in my after work hours and weekends. I had never even given much thought to hanging doors before so I bought a book, talked to a couple of finish carpenters, bought the Bosch jig and relied on some common sense and careful analysis of how the first couple went.

    I built my own door jambs, prehung the doors and put them up, The first one was a liitle rough but after that they just got better.

    The jig works great, it certainly was easy to understand, set up and use. It is reliable, repeatable and fairly sturdy. It is a bit costly but I justified the cost by not having to hire a finish carpenter.

    I am done with it now so if you're at all interested, I'll give you a deal on it.

  5. NotChuck | Jun 10, 2004 08:02am | #10

    I have the Bosch 3 hinge router guide unit, and its great for larger numbers of doors, but for fewer (maybe 3-5)  I like the "hingemate 2" I think its called , it sets up pretty fast and does the jambs (uninstalled) also and can move quickly from one mortise to the next, I also made a door hanging bench with those folding banquet table legs connected by a sort of shallow 1/2 torsion box tray (I'll send a picture if anyone is interested), though commercially available units are out there.

    SUGARLOAF WOODWORKING

    Architectural Woodworking & Quality Restoration of Older Homes

    "Anything is Possible"

     

    1. davidmeiland | Jun 10, 2004 08:34am | #11

      Can you post a photo on the board here? Always like to see what others are doing...

      1. gdavis62 | Jun 10, 2004 03:10pm | #12

        You probably have seen this, but here is what's used in many of the shops I've been in.

        View Image

        An edgewise slab is moved on the bed left to right, and a cutterhead in the large "Norfield" box bevels the strike edge, then the door is moved all the way right against a stop, the footpedal in the smaller box is depressed, and the lock prep (crossbore, edgebore, and strikeface mortise) is machined, then a hinge jamb is positioned in the jig atop, for using the cutting templates with a router to cut hinge mortises in jamb and slab edge together.  Hinges are placed and screwed into place, then the door, with jamb married to it, is moved to an assembly table for wrapping with the other two frame parts.  Setup changes are easily done to handle doors in heights up to 8/0, and the lockbores are easily doubled, at varying spacings, for exterior doors prepped for deadbolts.  Width setup change is very easily done, so as to handle a whole job order with typical width changes going from 1/8 up to 4/0.

        1. DougU | Jun 11, 2004 01:45am | #16

          Bob

          I'm assuming you have to build a lot of doors to justify that machine, hell I dont think Norm has one of those! Probably will soon though.

          Doug

          1. gdavis62 | Jun 11, 2004 04:42am | #17

            A Magnum machine would be seen in a door shop out back behind the office of a big wholesale distributor, being used to build doors for all their lumberyard accounts, in use for up to 250 prehangs per day, every day.  Some large lumberyard chains have their own door shops, and use Magnums, but probably don't build that many units daily.

            It's a "factory" rig, way beyond anything seen in a home shop, or even a professional shop.

          2. reinvent | Jun 11, 2004 05:07am | #18

            So theres no optional wheel kit to roll (or tow) it to the job site?

      2. NotChuck | Jun 10, 2004 06:17pm | #13

        I'll try to upload some shots of the portable door hanging benchSUGARLOAF WOODWORKING

        Architectural Woodworking & Quality Restoration of Older Homes

        "Anything is Possible"

         

  6. mike4244 | Jun 10, 2004 06:37pm | #14

    When I did production door hanging I used either the Porter Cable jig or a homemade jig. The homemade jig was better if the majority of the doors were the same. Consists of  a 2"x2" aluminum angle mortised to fit PO bushing ,5/8" router bit, and hinge dimensions. 1/4" masonite under the angle to give it more depth. The PO bushing is too long so it must be cut or ground down.All three or four hinges can be mortised in one length , or you can make a short one that would have to be moved for each hinge. The angle is clamped on the door with two padded clamps.

    This is a good setup for doors , most jambs were premortised. The advantage of the homemade jig is that it won't be knocked out of alignment. Disadvantages, does not fold, does one size only, hinge spacings are set and can't be moved. I tapped a hole on each end for a stop screw. One end was for left hand doors and the other for right handdoors.Since there arew no pins to drive like the PO , this jig can be used on laminated doors too.

    mike

  7. Brbconst | Jun 10, 2004 08:52pm | #15

          I make all the appripriate marks on a straight edge ( often my jamb level) lay it out and freehand it with a laminate trimmer. Never had a problem.

          Someone else posted a picture of a norfield machine. It is usually set up for one set of hinge and bore locations. A good operator can bypass the settings and route where ever he wants.

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