I hope I’m not dredging up an old subject here, but I did a quick search and didn’t find much to answer a question I have. I’m going to be installing a couple of doors in existing metal-framed walls and have a question about the best way to go about setting the headers. These are non load-bearing partition walls and the doors I’m using are solid-core oak with oak jambs. I was going to use KDs, but the owner didn’t want to pay the extra price and it’s not going to be an issue for the BI. I’m planning on cutting the RO about 3″ oversize so I can sister in some 2x for the jambs, I’ll take the 2x into account for the header as well.
I know the right way to do this if the wall wasn’t already finished, but I’m trying to figure out the best way to do this without needing to do an awful lot of drywall patching. Anyone have any trick of the trade that would make this easier? I’m not a pro by any means, so if I’ve left out any vital information, please just holler up.
Replies
Open it up, patch it up, only way.
Rich
"I'm planning on cutting the RO about 3 inches oversize......"
You better not forget to take into account the oak jambs, plus some room to add shims where needed to bring everything plumb. In your case, you otta make the RO about 5 inches wider....this allows 3 inches for your 2X sisitering, plus 1-1/2 inches for your 3/4 thick oak jamb stock, plus 1/2 inch for shimming.
Do your door layout, but initially, cut your RO much smaller than you intend. Cut out this opening from just one side of the wall, leave the other wall untouched. Now you can peek into this cavity, and most possibly be able to use a sawzall to cut through any nails or drywall screws that are attached to the existing metal wall studs that you need to remove.
If you can remove these studs without too much fuss, chances are good you will need little or no drywall patching work.
For your header, install metal channel (use same width as metal stud stock) between the remaining, existing metal studs. Cut this header approx. 6 inches longer than needed. At the same time, cut a wood header to the exact inside dimensional length. Measure back 3 inches on each end of the metal channel, and trim off the side flanges...then bend the remaining tabs down. Secure your wood header into this channel by driving a few drywall screws thru the back (top) of the channel and into the 2x. Now, attach metal/wood header assembly by driving self tapping screws thru the metal tab ends into the existing metal studs. Once header is in place, install 2x "sister" jambs in place underneath each end of header. Toenail or toe-screw jambs to header.
Plumb the 2x "sister jambs" and drive drywall screws thru the existing wallboard right into these studs to hold them in place. Drive screws from both sides of existing wall partition.
Once these 2x's are in place, using a rotor zip tool or a router with a roto-zip blade, a cut the opening to final size; by using the 2x's and your wood header as your guide.
If you have done this job carefully enough, the only patching necessary, is covering some drywall screws...that's it!
Now install your oak jambs and door in normal fashion, and trim out accordingly.
Hope this helps.
Davo
When you cut the RO's, do you have some "play" in the locations?
I'd cut the rock on the hinge side of the opening about 1 1/4" from the face of a stud.
If they're 3'0" doors with 3/4" jambs, measure over 38 1/2" from the first cut and mark the cut for the other leg.
Add a 1/2" to the height of the jamb and you've got the cut line for the head.
Now cut out the rock and any metal stud in your way.
Screw a wood stud to the metal one in the "pocket" you created on the hinge side. Screw studs at the edge of the rock on the strike side and at the head.
Install door, casing will cover all the screws in the rock. Should be nothing to repair.
buic
cut through the header cripples with a sawzall and metal cutting blade first. if you try to do it after you open up the drywall it will rattle everything to pieces.
just poke the blade through the drywall before each stud and cut it 2" higher than the jamb height, trying to cut as little drywall as possible. this thin cut in the drywall will be under the door casing later
watch the layout to the full studs keeping away 1 1/2" minimum so you can slip the dimensional lumber between the drywall unimpeded
finish cutting the drywall and insert your wood framing and screw off.
piece of cake
When cutting into an existing "closed" wall, please check to make sure there are no hidden wiring/ plumbing runs in your path.
Why spoil the fun? Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Don't worry, I've already looked into any issues with power, water, and gas, and it looks like I'll be clear. Fun was the 13.8 line that got ripped out of an excavation I was standing next to here a couple of weeks ago. Somebody forgot to tell the operator that things are supposed to go "boom" on the 4th of July, not the 4th of June. Seriously, though, thanks for all of the help. I think that I've had a few of my thoughts on how to best go about this project confirmed and I've thrown a few of my ideas about the window.