*
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story

From work boots to power tools, these favorite picks make perfect gifts for moms and women who build.
Featured Video
How to Install Cable Rail Around Wood-Post CornersHighlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Fine Homebuilding Magazine
- Home Group
- Antique Trader
- Arts & Crafts Homes
- Bank Note Reporter
- Cabin Life
- Cuisine at Home
- Fine Gardening
- Fine Woodworking
- Green Building Advisor
- Garden Gate
- Horticulture
- Keep Craft Alive
- Log Home Living
- Military Trader/Vehicles
- Numismatic News
- Numismaster
- Old Cars Weekly
- Old House Journal
- Period Homes
- Popular Woodworking
- Script
- ShopNotes
- Sports Collectors Digest
- Threads
- Timber Home Living
- Traditional Building
- Woodsmith
- World Coin News
- Writer's Digest
Replies
*
Man, now I see how easy it is to get the discussion posted before you actually write it out.
OK, help me think through this.
The entries into my living and dining rooms from the foyer do not have doors, currently. NO trim, woodwork, or anything. I assume it's wallboard, and it's painted. The openings are 4 feet wide.
If I wanted French doors in these openings, is it true that the wallboard would have to be trimmed away and proper framing put in to support the doors, and then the whole thing cased out properly? I don't plan on trying to do this myself, I just need to be armed with facts.
Also, there is a new product out that is an engineered version of the classic version of raised panelling and beadboard wainscotting, and its coordinating trimwork. This was featured in the Da Silva house on TOH a couple of years ago. Have any of you worked with this stuff, and what is your impression of it? Do you think the beadboard stuff would be a reasonably easy DIY in a small room for practice?
*TheodoraThe first thing you need to know is what the manufacturers required rough opening is. If its a prehung and the rough opening fits in the 48" opening you shouldnt have to any additional framing or wall board cuttng other than the existing jamb set removed to accomidate the one on the prehung. If it needs a bigger rough openning say 50 plus inches then you need to do some structural work but its not that big of a deal. Im still a little under the weather now so maybe some of the other guys can help you better. But I hope this helps.
*I think the "other" Ron is right on. Gotta know the rough opening before ya go any farther. I'd probably remove the drywall regardless, as it doesn't serve as good backing for the door jambs. I'd rather have wood.
*I would think you'd have to remove the drywall on the sides of the opening and the cornerbead because the cornerbead and mud makes a little flare at the corner and that is too wide for a door jamb. Then you'd have to smooth out the edges so it is flat and smooth to the edge of the door trim. The door jamb probably wouldn't be wide enough even if the rough opening is wide and tall enough since it is made to fit a wall width plus drywall.Theo, any door you buy, especially a prehung one, will have the rough opening specifications. That will include a little bit of wiggle room so you can shim it plumb. Measure your opening exactly and subtract an inch to account for your drywall that you will remove from each side of the jamb (assuming a 1/2 inch drywall. If the door is wider than that, then you will have to do a little more destruction and construction to make it fit in. And don't forget the top measurement too.Mary
*TD,The guys are right, except they're answering your question and I think your question is backwards. You have a 4' opening now. Do you want a 4' french door in the opening or something larger? If you want a 4' door, then what you have to do is find someone who makes the door you want. If you want a bigger door since 4' is pretty small for a french door, then you have to cut back. Either way, you are going to have to remove the rock around the opening and remove the corner bead. It will already be studded, so there's no big deal there.And if you want to make it larger, it still isn't that big a deal. To avoid unnecessary work, size it to existing studs and install a prehung french door. The trim will cover the area where the rock is cut so don't let that get you nervous.Is that the question you are asking?SHG
*OK All that helps. Yes, I have already checked on the prehung doors sizes, so if I get a four foot one, remove the sheetrock and corner bead stuff, there would be enough wiggle room for shims, etc. And Now I understand that I could probably get a wider one, if I work according to the existing studs. And the trim would cover the torn up sheetrock.OK I got it. I think I can now present this to the Committee. Thanks!
*One other thing --The door frame may have a proper header -- and it may not. If it doesn't you might think of putting a proper one in (don't know the details of the wall - load bearing or not, etc.). Wouldn't be the first door under-framed. At any rate, a sagging header in an open doorway is OK. A sagging header where a door is supposed to open / close into is not OK. Check that the header doesn't sag. Hopefully it's framed OK.
*I'll check that out, too. Thanks.
*TD,If you open it up wider than the existing 4 feet, you will have to put in a new header. Assuming there is a proper header there now, it will still only be for the 4' opening and not a wider one. But this isn't a big deal. In fact, none of this is and if you want to put in a nice wide door to make this opening look the way you want, just do it.Last point is think about whether you want your trim to be the same as what you now have throughout the house or want to put in something bigger. You didn't say what existing trim is, but I'm guessing that it's something along the lines of clamshell or colonial casing. French doors will look better with something more substantial, which will also help to ease any repair work needed for the rock around the opening.SHG
*