Need your guys expertise.
I didn’t catch this but our framer was told to frame out 8 Ft. doors throughout our whole house. What ended up happening is he didn’t account for the jambs! All doors have (2) 2×4 top plates with 2×10 header. What is the best way to deal with this? Thanks in advance!!
Actual Measurements:
34″ x 96″
Proposed from Door Manufacturer:
34 1/2 ” x 98″
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Replies
Bust out the Sawzall, cut up the sides of the header and into the framing plate, leaving the top plate intact. Remove the plate from the header and put it back in. The resulting 1-1/2'' extra head room should accomodate the door jamb. How long has your framer been in business?
"(Actual Measurements:
34" x 96"
Proposed from Door Manufacturer:
34 1/2 " x 98")"
sounds like you are too narrow as well
34" will work for a standard interior jamb if RO is plumb.
Edited 12/10/2005 1:46 am ET by txlandlord
doubled top plate ...
I was wondering if these are interior or exterior doors/walls.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
These are interior doors and with no sheetrock installed.
here's hoping your framers got it plumb. I you got 0 zero clearance - won't be much fun hanging those doors if they didn't.
EDIT: if it's standard door width all you need is the extra 2" in RO width. I was thinking maybe you got odd size doors as I have never seen and RO with 2 1/2" extra for width. I then would agree that you don't need the extra half inch. 1/4" play on either side is fine.EDIT 2: just read framers post.... something I did't know... so maybe you do have a problem there with width... better find out now so you don't run into second problem later....nothing worse then fixing it once then having to fix it yet again.
Edited 12/10/2005 2:59 pm ET by alrightythen
Edited 12/10/2005 3:03 pm ET by alrightythen
Alrighthen, is this post addressed to me?
I am not sure I am convinced to do anything different, after 35 years as a framer / builder and successfully buildng all of our ROs are 2 1/2" larger (W & H) than door call size.
I am too rutted into my successful experience, and could offer at least 6 reasons for the 2 1/2", but who cares?
As with me, I am sure others do what has successfully worked for them.
All you to say is "Alrightthen", yuk, yuk.
sorry...my post was in repsonse to your post, but was directed to towards orignal poster. read your post too fast and thought you were him...sorry.
I don't think I was suggesting that you do anything different. If you frame your RO 2 1/2" wider that is fine with me. I actually got the impression from your post that you were saying the exra 1/2" wasn't needed.
I've always seen RO's specified as 2" wider then door size. Then in reading Framers post, he refered to thicker door jams which is something new to me, and something that should be checked.
You've got about 3 times the experience as I have, so I'm sure you've seen alot more scenarios then I have.
Somebody needs to fix this ASAP - before the rock goes on. And, cutting the doors down should NOT be an option.
Was the framer working to a plan set? If so, the archy eats it. Otherwise, it's on the framer. You should meet with the players first thing on Monday to determine how it will be resolved.
Is the board up yet? If not, it's no big deal. I mean, yes... it's an f-up. But no matter who's fault it is, it's not a tough fix if the sheetrock isn't up yet. A little sawzall time and the pain is over. I'd guess 15min per door tops. Pop the header out. Cut out the lower top plate, cut some new jacks, and put it all back together.
Giterdone!
Best way to deal with it? Call the framer back! This is framing 101. Hope you have some retainage $. Also hope the drywall is not in yet. I'd even go with 99" if there is to be hardwood floor or something else that is somewhat thick.
If you told him 96" specifically (or 8'), it's your bad, but he should have questioned you and and then requestioned... but you might have to pay him.
All the headers need to be moved up.
Matt is right. Framing 101. Typical interior doors RO is 2 1/2" larger W and H that call.
2'8" x 6'8" door = 32" x 80" thus RO = 34 1/2" x 82 1/2"
If you told him to frame for 8' doors you are cool, he should fix it with no charge.
If you told him 96" RO, apologize and pay him to fix it.
Edited 12/10/2005 10:08 am ET by txlandlord
What everyone else said about the height.
Make sure the openings are plumb. When I frame an opening that I'm hanging the door in. I always frame it tighter, but make sure it is DN plumb. The fewer the shims the better.
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Swimming through the ashes of another life, no real reason to accept the way things have changed. Wrapped in guilt, sealed up tight.
You have no choice but to call the framer back and have him fix it. Your going to have a problem in the width also because a normal ro for a 32" door is 34" but that's with typical 6'8" doors with 9/16" jambs. You have 8' doors and I'm sure with those doors you could possibly have 5/4 jambs so you have to see what you have. Besides if the roof opening is supposed to be 34-1/2" x 98" that must mean your jambs are bigger.
Regardless of who gave him the rough openings and I've never once seen interior door rough openings before on a plan. The framer should've questioned it because when your given a 6'8" or 7' or 8' door height the rough opening is never the actual door height unless this is some custom built door.
Thanks for the replies!
These are screwed up for 20 + opening should be fun!! We are looking at buying the masonite palazzo collection Bellagio. Any feedback on the doors quality ..etc.? Also here are more specs.
Single Pre Hung
Door Thickness 1 3/8"
Slab Width 32"
Wall Depth 4 9/16"
I viewed specs at the Masonite website and they look like great doors.
Be sure to handle with care when unloading. Inspect carefully and reject any right on the truck if they have scraped or gouged skins, or molding damage. Fiberboard cannot be repaired easily to look good. If any are damaged, send 'em back right then and there.
Likewise, be careful when handling moving them in and installing them. The slabs should be removed from the frames after installation, and carefully moved to the painting area. Seal top and bottom with primer, then reseal, then stand them up for finishing. Finish them, and store them with soft no-mar spacers between them.
Buy white cotton gloves, and use them when moving the doors back to the openings and rehanging, at the end of the job. Use the same gloves when installing the hardware.
Good luck!
Are you a bomb tech or a carpenter? You ever watch the guys loading the trucks at the yard? LOL.... I'm just ribbing ya.
I haven't built many houses, but in three of those we've finished, these solid-core paint-grade molded hardboard doors were used.
They are a super alternative to solid wood, but have their limitations. They will rarely if ever get the chance to be marred in service, but as you know, all the handling between door shop and final finish has risk for damage. Damage from sharp objects.
A trim carp with a combo square sticking out of his bags can plow a scar across the face of one of these for sure. I know . . . having ripped one myself. All you can do is try some Bondo, and if that doesn't do it, call your yard for a replacement slab.
As for the white gloves, I learned this from watching on my first house job. Our electrical sub's people all wore them when hanging the finish fixtures. Since then, I furnish them for everybody when we are tiptoeing around doing all that final stuff.
I used these on our house. The slabs are pretty nice. They will need some prep work before painting, especially on the ends and sides. The primer coat on ours was pretty thin and anytime I sanded on them they had to be reprimed.
Be sure to get the poplar jams. They can come with mdf jams which are cr*p. Ours came with decent hinges but since many distributors just buy the slabs from masonite and they supply their own jambs and hardware, your mileage may vary.
Overall I am pretty happy with them.
Regards,
Dennis
Your door manufacturer should have a spec sheet (try their website) showing the RO for all of their doors.
Have your framer knock out all the headers and jacks in the openings. This can be done without breaking a sweat.
As regards the height, decide what is quicker and less expense . . . doubled 2x with short crips above, or ripping the 2x10s. You need at least two more inches of height, and more possibly due to floor finish.
Of course, any of these openings that are in bearing walls probably cannot have two 2x sleepers as a header, so proceed according to structural situations.
Throw away one or both jacks and substitute 5/4 thickness for the 1-1/2" thickness that was there, at least on one side. I would go with 5/4 jacks on both sides, to yield 35 inches RO width. You'll probably need this with the tall doors.
Here is a pic of the RO
Wow, 20+ openings with solid headers that are too big.My thought -
cut 'em in place with a short ladder,
use a plywood template to draw cut outline,
sawzall up the sides (have several new blades and change out when they get tired),
Bigfoot 10" saw through the header at the height you need (~$20 rental if you don't own one),
finish the horizontal cut with the sawzallrepeat until finished. Damn, that's a lot of overhead work!If you pull the headers out and rip them, you'll spend more time on the sawzall and table saw and have to block above the jack studs (or better, use new jack studs cut to the correct length)
That's additional material and more sawzalling and if you catch a nail in the table saw, more blades...Good luck with your project, hope the holidays are treating you well.MacView Image
I was wondering about the ceiling height... Now that I see the pic I'll say that personally I think 8' doors with 9' ceilings are a little out of proportion. The little linen closet doors and any small closets will look really funny. Just my opinion, but I'd rather have 7' doors. To me, 8' doors are for 10' ceilings. Of course I have no idea of what look you are going for, and all this stuff is quite regional.