I’m in the process of designing a cabinet that will have inset doors. See the pic attached.
How big should the gaps be around the doors? Also, there will be two sets of double doors, how big should the gap be between the two doors?
I’ll be building this in a cold, dry area. Should I make extra room for the increase in size once this gets in the house?
Replies
File actually attached this time...
The width of your stiles will determine how much the doors will shrink and swell throughout a year. I use the thickness of a nickel for spacing the gap. Should be fine with stiles up to 2 1/2" - 3". I thought all cabinetmakers had a handful of nickels around just for this purpose.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
JMadison
I'm with the others here that suggest 3/32nds, a little shy is mo-better.
I see people do the 1/8th and I think that looks way to big a gap.
Doug
A dime in the summer and a nickle in winter.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"People that never get carried away should be"
Penny for your thoughts....nickel for a kiss...dime, if you tell me that you love me.
PLEASE NOTE: The above is not directed to Sphere, or anyone else. (Not that there's anything wrong with that.) Tune just popped into my head.
J. D. ReynoldsHome Improvements
Sociopath.
LOLSpheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"People that never get carried away should be"
If it were me, I'd probably shoot for 3/32" around the pair, maybe 5/32" between. Perhaps a tad less if your finish doesn't "build". If the finish is really dark, of course, you can get away with more gap (dark line).
Forrest
Ahhh, one of the more interesting problems in cabinetmaking.
The "hallmark" of inset doors (and drawer fronts) is a very small and even gap all around the door (or drawer front). This requires either
I shoot for a 1/16" - 3/32" gap all around and usually get very close. Since I prefer to use a round over on the cabinets, doors, and drawer fronts, being a little off - or a small amount of change due to expansion/contraction - is seldom noticeable.
Double doors are usually the biggest hassle. I've been known to leave an unfinished cabinet sit overnight with some heat on it so I can "dial in" the doors while they're expanded. It's a real pain to try to fix rubbing doors after the stain/finish is on.
1/8" to 3/16" is what I typically shoot for.
1/8" at the frames and 3/16" between doors.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Nickelgap--aka 5/64"--also known as a shy 3/32"--but call it good if it's at least 1/16" and no more than 3/32".
Between 3/32" and 1/8" between doors. Use a moisture meter to figure out if the doors are going to move much and allow more/less accordingly.
5/64ths / 3/32nds is perfect, assuming 3/4" standard doors. If they are thicker, you may need a little more room to clear the meeting stiles.
Jeff
I like the Nickel trick, I'll probably stick with that one for an easy standard.
Thanks everyone.
If you are using non-mortice hinges, it might be worthwhile to make sure they are going to give you the reveal you're looking for or are at least tweakable.
Personally, I build the door a bit oversized and tweak it once the cabinet is in place and the countertops are on, especially with heavier countertops. Sometimes it's the floor framing or subfloor that settles under the weight throwing the perfect door reveals off, or the joker installing the top puts way too much pressure on a cabinet.
I'm in an area with very little humidity variation between seasons so gaps stay the same, more or less.
Best of luck
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.