can anyone give me an idea where to look for ‘drawing’ some stairs for my permits. i got the general plans already submitted and approved but just don’t know how to draw up the stairs.
thanks for any help
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Replies
Here, the drawings generally only show the location and general design of the stairs - the actual code compliance is checked on the stairs in "real time".
"...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
there are many free sites that figure run & rise and degrees... i use one thats for concrete stairs that figures how much concrete for the stairway... ( i don't use it for that) that lets you print great drawings gives you point to point and running measurements for when you cut your stringers... if i can track down the link i'll post it...
p
what format are your drawings in now, CAD or pencil an paper?
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Thanks for the replies.I used pencil and the scale the county wanted (It was a lot of work, but cheaper for our family).Maybe just the general location and 'routing' of how they'll go is all I need. I don't know if showing 'between' floors is a 'usual' requirement for drawing plans.Again, thanks.
Most plans just have a few lines for treads, some arrows indicating up or down, and maybe note indicating the number of treads and risers.Sections of the stairs aren't necessary unless there's some engineering involved.Piers for stair point loads will be in the foundation plan. Floor framing plan will show carrying beam/headers.http://www.tvwsolar.com
I went down to the lobby
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A pretty dancing girl was there,
And she began to shout,
"Go on back to see the gypsy.
He can move you from the rear,
Drive you from your fear,
Bring you through the mirror.
He did it in Las Vegas,
And he can do it here."
Did the permit people say you needed stair details? if so, their web site (or office) ought to list what info is required.
Are these stairs non-typical for residential work--like metal units, structural runs, or the like? Is there an access issue, like ADA being invoked?
My muni assumes you have followed IRC, which is how you worked out how many risers to draw on the plans, and the length of the run of the treads. They only require detail if you are making a common access for multifamily (and you usually have to get that detail for the independant TAS check, here).
So, a note to the effect of "17 Risers Up" or "19 Risers Down" on the plans normally suffices (if that is a number that will pass IRC for the floor-to-floor height).
"Did the permit people say you needed stair details? if so, their web site (or office) ought to list what info is required."No, we applied just to finish the basement. We decided to add this on. I was told that I just needed to bring in a drawing for them to "approve" and the stairs could be added on the the exsiting permit."Are these stairs non-typical for residential work--like metal units, structural runs, or the like? Is there an access issue, like ADA being invoked?"I'm just a dyi-er, so I don't know what ADA is. We're doing stairs with a landing and 90 degree turn at this point. The only caveat is I've got to come down between a structural glue lame and bearing wall (st least that's how we see it now).We did look into some of the spirals in the FHB magazine but we were told that the rise would be in the 8 to 9 inches for the hieght we have to span. And my wife has knees that would really like something under 7 (which I doubt will happen).
justin.... what's your finish floor-to-finish floor ht. ?Mike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
thanks for asking.it is 118 1/4 inches from the concrete basement floor to the top of the 3/4 fir first floor.
well.....you'll need 17 risers @ 6 15/16"....very hard to do and maintain your head clearance...check your code... but i like 6'-9" for my clearanceie...you have to draw your cross section and see if the diagonal line across the nosings is 6'9 ( could be 6'8 ) below the lowest floor framingkeep adjsuting our treads & risers until it worksMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
well.....you'll need 17 risers @ 6 15/16"....very hard to do and maintain your head clearance...
I'm curious how you determined that there is a head clearance issue. How do you know the size of the well opening? Wouldn't that be the determining factor?
And why not 16 risers at 7.4?
head clearance is ALWAYS a problem... and he said he wanted to limit the riser to 7"
so that automatically means this set of stairs is going to be on the maximum set of stair runs
let's say we use a 10" tread.... 17 risers will mean 16 treads ... so we're probably looking at a run of 160"
i smell head room clearance issuesMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Ya know, if you posted all the pertinent info...size of openning in floor L x W
Distance to walls under that available for landing.
size of floor framing depth
number of treads desired beyond landingsomebody might just work up a stair drawing that is workable for you.
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>> it is 118 1/4 inches from the concrete basement floor to the top of the 3/4 fir first floor. <<
I'd go with 16 risers depending on what your local code is for max riser height. Here, we can go all the way up to 8.25" although those are rather "steep". 7 3/8" isn't a bad rise at all, especially for basement steps.
As far as how to draw them for permit purposes see the attached.
A few edits to add: Here required head height is 6'8", but closer to 7' is really better. Regardig drawings, sometimes it's best to make a scale sectional drawing to check head height. Regarding making your risers a little lower than normal, if you make them lower you need to make the treads a little deeper too.
Edited 2/3/2009 7:38 am ET by Matt
I'm just a dyi-er, so I don't know what ADA is. We're doing stairs with a landing and 90 degree turn at this point.
Ah, ADA is the Americans with Disabilities Act, which mandates certain minimum accessibilites. TAS is the Texas Accessibility Standards, which have supremacy in Texas over ADA. IRC is the International Residential Code. which is used by many places in one of its many yearly iterations.
Sounds like all you need is to just draw the stairs on the basement plan. Annotate the stairs, then put a bold line around the changed area with a line off that calling out "Stairs appended [date]" usually suffices. You should call out the width of the stairs, and the width & depth of the landing.
Several sources out there for what rise and run ought to be. You give us the floor-to-floor height, and the length of run available, and you'll get several answers for your riser/tread count.
Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
fine... but what do you think of huck's man-bag ?Mike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Hey, that's a money bag and it's payday! Whatsamattahyu?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
but what do you think of huck's man-bag ?
Well, I presumed that it was nothing more than free SU content, and not meant to be portraiture.
And if Huck wants to carry a manbag, it's no worry of mine. After al, I've been known to go out in public in a plaid skirt, too (if usually with a wee dagger up my sock <g>).
Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Please, PLEASE explain that one "usually with a wee dagger up my sock" in such a way as to erase the mental picture it painted.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
sounds like a code word for something we probably don't want to know about.
usually with a wee dagger up my sock
You would have preferred "wi ane dirk 'angin' "?
The skean dhu (a small, single-edge knife) is traditionally worn in the top of one's stocking (kilts not normally having pockets). Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
down your sock sounds better than up it;)
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Wow, thanks for all the great replies. With a 3 year-old I get lost in everything, so I didn't get back sooner.I don't think I have to worry about ADA here in WA, but thanks.Thanks for the two drawings of the stairs. Piffin- "size of opening in floor L x W" not cut open yet "Distance to walls under that available for landing." unfinished basement - just a big unfinished rectangle."size of floor framing depth" sorry, no idea what that is."number of treads desired beyond landing" - sorry don't know, just want it so it doesn't kill the wife's knees. So we have lots of room for a longer run if necessary.I've attached a couple drawings (hope they show okay) the are pretty much to 1/4" scale which the county requires. The stairs treads are just drawn in to give an idea of how it looks.The glue lam 6'6" from the bearing wall in the drawing.Thanks so much for all the replies and ideas.Edit: we're going to lose the window in the basement. that room is about the only place we can put the stairs.
Edited 2/4/2009 10:19 am ET by justinbearing
I will look at those later when I see a high speed on the job. You may have the info I wanted on them.
you pretty much have some good info and sketches already. floor framing depth means what size are the existing floor joists - 2x10 or 2x12 or ???? plus thickness of subfloor and finish floor above.Th9is is critical to know re the headroom thing mike adressed. He was saying to nominally plan for 6'9" because once finished ceiling and treads, you need 6'8" after all done.If no inspection, 6'6" can work.
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Again, thanks for your repies.It a very old house - pre 30 we beleive. Floor joists are 5-1/2 inches; subfloor and floor are both a true 3/4"We do have permits so it needs to be 80".
Dunno about that head clearance for the glue-lam. Would help if we had the actual measurements. I'm thinking you might have to double-back on the way down, and end up with 2 landings en route. Lose a chunk of your square footage that way.View ImageView Image "...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
View ImageView Image "...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
I couldn't tell if he meant that 6'6" to the side of the stairwell openning or to the wall. I see how you interpreted this.
;)
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might get away with something like thisView ImageView Image "...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
Nice.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Thanks. I'm just guessing too, the description and drawings were vague, to say the least. Is the glue-lam above or below? And what are the dimensions of the beam, and the joists? So I took my best guess, and gave it a shot. At least it gives a talking point to start from.View Image "...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
Huck,Pretty amazing, thanks for taking the time to do all those drawings!“Dunno about that head clearance for the glue-lam.” Sorry that I wasn’t clear. On the drawing called “front room detail…” the treads I put in would start on “top” of the glue lame(at a right angle to it which happens to be at right angle to the floor joists it is supporting). The glue lam is 6’6” from the outside (bearing ) wall as the stairs go towards that wall.So the “hole” would be most likely be right at the glue lam. As we get within 3’ of the wall, I see the stair taking a 90 degree angle and then continuing down. How far I have to cut out the floor by the wall will be determined by the 80 inch rule. I really don’t see a problem with head space since the whole 11’3” of wall is available to use on that side of the outside (bearing) wall.If you look at the basement_stair_detail drawing (front of house), you’ll see that I’ll come down right where that 5x4 window is. I’ve tried other scenarios and really don’t see any way to avoid taking the window out.Your picture in 116050.33, if you took that initial run and kept the first landing but ran the treads all the way down that wall – that would be what we’re thinking would conserve living area, but then I’m a dyi-er and don’t really know“Would help if we had the actual measurements.” What measurements would you like?
the treads I put in would start on “top” of the glue lame(at a right angle to it which happens to be at right angle to the floor joists it is supporting)
- that's what I figured, and that's what I drew. The thing that's inaccurate in your sketch, is that you won't hit bottom before you run into the wall below - your stairs have to turn either 90 degrees again, or a full 180 degrees. But if you turn 90 degrees, and there is a glue-lam under the joists, then head-clearance will be an issue. That's why I drew it returning 180 degrees.
How far I have to cut out the floor by the wall will be determined by the 80 inch rule. I really don’t see a problem with head space since the whole 11’3” of wall is available to use on that side of the outside (bearing) wall.
Again, I think you are in error here. You cut out 3' of floor space along the back wall for head clearance as your stairs descend - but since they have to double back, you take out another 3' for head clearance on the rest of the way down.
Now you have effectively removed the floor from the beam to the wall. You might get a few inches of cantilever over the beam. By utilizing a winder tread at the landings, you might get a little more floor space, as shown in my third sketch.
But your error is in thinking "the whole 11’3” of wall" is enough to get you to the floor. As Mike Smith pointed out, a rise of 6 15/16" gives you 17 risers and 16 treads. Mike figured a run of 160", but with treads at approx. 11", that becomes 176". Remove 36" for a landing, and 11' 3" becomes 99".
But you must have a landing at the bottom also, meaning you can't run your steps right into the wall, like you drew them. So subtract another 36" for a landing at the bottom, and now you have 63 inches - not enough room for enough steps to get you all the way down, even subtracting the 3 steps down from the beam to the landing. So you must turn and continue down. Like I said, either 90 degrees or 180 degrees. If its 90, then you better check your head clearance at the glue-lam.
additionally, you say: We want to enclose the stairs anyway so we don't have to heat the basement and the upper house together. So how do you propose to do this - by adding a wall at the end of the floor after cutting out for the stairwell, then a door at the top of the stairs? If so, you will need a landing at the very top, in front of the door. This would need to be carefully thought out, because you're going to end up with a very small, claustrophobic feeling room, if you're not careful.
The only other option I can see to accomplish this is to add a wall at the bottom of the stairs, so the stairwell is open to the upstairs, but the basement is closed off, with a door at the bottom of the steps. Again, either way you go, the room with the wall sealing off the stairwell will be a very small room indeed, based on the dimensions in your sketch.
View Image "...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
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Edited 2/5/2009 5:07 pm by Huck
well, its so much more complicated than I thought. I'll "chew" on all the good info I've gotten and get back with a better drawning or something.
A 3 or 4 step winder is probably your best solution, but may be more than you are up for. What part of Washington are you in?
Edited 2/5/2009 8:49 pm ET by mathewson
Here's what I'm thinking...
you said "Floor joists are 5-1/2 inches; subfloor and floor are both a true 3/4""
What you have drawn is going to require that the floor be at least partially reframed. They probably aren't gonna let you reframe a floor installing new 2x6 floor joists as they aren't up to current code for a primary floor system. If it were just a simple rectangle you want to cut in the floor it might be OK. But with an 'L' shaped opening it gets more complicated.
OTOH, if you just want to cut a large rectangular hole in the floor like Huck's end to the last pic, they might go for it. That hole looks like it might be roughly 6'x11' which is a lot of floor space to give up...
Let me say though that I build new stuff. I'm not a remodeler.
Yup, 6' x 11' 3", gone - like, almost half the room! The last drawing reclaims a little bit of that space, by utilizing the winder treads in the corners. I'm not crazy about 'em, but I have seen them done that way. Hate to carry furniture up or down those boogers, 'tho.
By using the landings as treads, you drop a little faster, and that gives enough headroom for reclaiming a little peninsula of floor jutting out over the stairwell, without hitting your head on the way up.
Have to clear it with the bldg. dep't.
A lot of times homeowners want stuff but don't realize the implications.
View Image "...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
Edited 2/4/2009 7:14 pm by Huck
"partially reframed" sorry, i just am not able to convey 'idea.' i'll have to rethink.all the floor joists run east/west. if you look at the basement_detail drawing, you see that the front to back is bigger than the side to side (east/west as noted on the drawings.)So if I start over the glue by the front wall, then turn 90 degrees on the east wall, I'm only taking out 3 feet of the tails of the floor joists that can be supported by a wall that the stairs can be built on. We want to enclose the stairs anyway so we don't have to heat the basement and the upper house together.ALL - thanks for your help and sorry I don't know how to explain things better!
>> So if I start over the glue by the front wall, then turn 90 degrees on the east wall, I'm only taking out 3 feet of the tails of the floor joists that can be supported by a wall that the stairs can be built on. << And your gonna jack out the basement floor concrete to install footers below the slab and the bearing wall... right?
hum. those floor joist are only supporting that area of the floor in the drawing; wouldn't a 2x6 wall on a 2x6 plate work? The bearing wall will still be holding up the upper wall that supports the roof.BTW: how can it be a free trial for the online version if I have to give my credit card??
Edited 2/5/2009 10:01 pm ET by justinbearing
>> hum. those floor joist are only supporting that area of the floor in the drawing; wouldn't a 2x6 wall on a 2x6 plate work? The bearing wall will still be holding up the upper wall that supports the roof. <<
To tell you the truth, I couldn't make a lot of sense out of the drawings. The basement diagram doesn't even show stairs... You gotta make a drawing for the permit office or the BI so why not go ahead and make one. More than 10 minutes will be required. I think part of the problem is that you can't just draw part of the house. You can leave out some of the details but the basic dimensions need to be there. Normally building drawings have extension lines and dimension lines that go with the numerals. Walls are shown as a double line with a 4" space between (or how ever thick the wall is).
See the attached. These are some pics I just happen to have. Too bad the scale is in the way. It's blocking some of what you need to see, but it is the lower and upper floors of a set of stairs.
The strength of the wall isn't the issue. Building loads have to be supported all the way down to the footer - including a footer. A 2x4 wall would probably be plenty strong. But if it will be a bearing wall the problem is the basement floor. If you are putting a load on it, and BTW I'm assuming the basement floor is concrete, who knows, it could be 2" thick. If it is a load bearing wall the BI is gonna want to see a footer under it. It's building 101. For normal new house slab construction that would probably just be a thickened part of the slab (8"). I don't know.... maybe your BI would look the other way. If it is a full 4" thick slab on solid a solid substrate it would probably support it just fine.
Maybe part of the problem is that I didn't get your drawings. What is a sheer wall doing in the middle of the house? BTW - is the glue-lam existing or you adding that?
BTW - if the glue lam is to be added, there will be a point load at either end of the glue-lam too. If both ends are to be sitting on the masonry foundation walls it will probably be OK. Course you said the house was built in 1930....
>> BTW: how can it be a free trial for the online version if I have to give my credit card?? << is that directed to me? Free trial for what?
I'm so sorry. No, not at you. The FHB online free 14 trail that is in between EVERY post. You have to sign up with a credit card! I don't see how it's a free trial if I've got to cancel it. It would more entice me if I really had a free 14 trail and then was offered to continue it if I liked it. Guess I'll just stick with the mag, whick I just picked up the new copy.
here's a couple of pic from the basement. maybe it will help you and others who have posted replies.i did get my orginal question answered about what's required for drawings. nothings as fancy as your computer drawings here.
Not the greatest photos, but they do confirm that headroom under that glue-lam will definitely be an issue. So you're back to a second landing on the way down, with a 180 degree u-turn to avoid the beam.View Image "...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
View ImageView Image "...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
View ImageView Image "...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
View ImageView Image "...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
To add to what Huck said directly above, building and trimming a straight set of steps is a "211 level course". Multiple flights with intermediate landing(s) "311 level course". Winders - "411 level course".
Winders are the hardest. Not rocket science, but with my crews anyway, it is always the senior (or more experienced) framer guy on a particular crew who builds the steps and a senior trim guy who trims them out. Granted, most any framer can install a set of factory steps, but once you go to maybe 2 landings (or 2 turns) it is all site built - or at least that's the way I do it.
Re winders, (pie shaped steps) what Huck drew was a conceptual drawing. Those pie shaped steps actually can't be pointed at the inside edge. Look at this booklet and it shows stair codes including those for winders. You do need to find out what code is enforce in your area. Generally, the concepts are the same everywhere, but different areas apply different dimensions to the min and max sizes. The one I linked to was IRC 2006. Here is IRC 2003 stair code. Your area may use neither, or (more likely) a modified version of one of those.
Also, regarding winder stair railings, it can get complicated. You see when you have those flat landings (no winders) every flight of steps is considered it's own separate deal, where-as when you have winders it's all one flight and the hand rail needs to be continuous - going around corners and changing elevations at the same time. Some inspectors/jurisdictions will allow that the handrail to be interrupted by a newel post which makes it simpler - it depends on the situation. If the BI wants the handrail continuous, not meaning to be negative here - but if you had to ask these questions, you can't build it - just being real - heck - I can't (personally) build it. I do know how they need to look though and I have the guys to do it.
Back to the stair hole thing - if you want to do something other than a simple rectangle, and inspectors are involved, you very possibly will need an engineer.
Also, regarding winder stair railings, it can get complicated
Amen to that. This isn't even a winder situation, just a split landing that steps up in the middle. Still had to scratch my head, and make a few wrong cuts to finally get it. And really, this is a compromise, possible only because the shape is so close to perfectly round. In fact, I recommend a perfectly round handrail, because the miter joints become simplified.View ImageView Image "...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
here's one that Chuck did for the #Adverse Conditions# job
View ImageMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
whoa! - I think I saw that same design on a ride at Magic Mountain!View Image "...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
Mike,If you have a bandsaw and a router table it is fairly easy to make that transition from the gooseneck drop to the level quarter-turn. If you like I can explain the process.
hey.....have at it....
View Image
we're all here to learn
Mike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Edited 2/5/2009 6:55 pm ET by MikeSmith
Mike,Never have figured out how to get the pics to show up like that without having to hit the link.Most every time the fittings based on a portion of a circle. The fitting is a 90° turn, what you need to determine is the radius. I find it easier to draw it out full scale, but you might just measure on site. Lets say you need a 7" inside radius. 6010 handrail is 2 3/8 tall by 2 1/4" wide. Make a circle jig for the bandsaw. You'll need to glue-up some stock to cut out the blank. Set the first radius at 9 3/8" & make the cut , adjust the radius to 7" make the second cut. Now you have the fitting without the profile. I forget who sells a router cutter with that profile, probably a few companies. Make a tall verticle fence for the router table/shaper with a plumb line over the center of the cutter. Take a piece of 3/4 ply and cut a 10" radius with the same setup on the bandsaw circle jig. Draw a plumb line from the center hole to the center of the radius. Take a piece of scrap and screw it to the upper portion of the swing arm, this creates a bridge the same thickness as the blank. Glue & screw a backer block on the back right side of the sled to hold the blank from coming out the back side. DON"T use screws too long of they will hit the router bit, that really sucks.
Take the off cut and screw it to the router table setup. This gives the blank something to ride onPlace the blank on the cut-off guide, adjust height for router bit and put a screw through the sled into the router table fence so that both plumb lines match.
Now instead of swinging horizontal you will be swinging verticle. With this setup the 3/4 ply and the blank is between you and the cutter. Run the profile, turn the blank around and run the other side.Make the fitting longer than 90° so you can cut to size with a pitch block per normal.I hope my description was clear, it is easier to do than describe.Edited 2/5/2009 7:45 pm ET by mathewson
Edited 2/5/2009 8:50 pm ET by mathewson
put up the pics and i'll feed 'em into your narrativeMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I don't have any pics on the computer. I'll check the shop tomorrow & see if there are any around. Tend to make them per job, but I'll have a look.
Edited 2/5/2009 8:09 pm ET by mathewson
Nice to see that someone sands their joints nice and smooth with rounded corners. My trim guys just leave em sharp. To me, it's beyond the scope of the painters, so I do it - although admittidly not as nice as in your pic....
I'm afraid I don't understand what a lot of these dimensions are in reference to. is the shear wall in the one over a glulam bean that you need to miss ? How far is that glulam from the cellar wall inside? It seems that you are thinking 3' wide stairs and landing and want to start down from the center glulam until you run into the base3ment wall, then turn right. Is that it?
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the 'shear' wall is on the completely opposite side of the stairs if you look at my 'basement_stair_detail' drawing. (those little stairs by the shear wall is for the 'upper crawl space'.)"How far is that glulam from the cellar wall inside?" If you look at that drawing mentioned above and the wall called 'east', it is 6'6" off that wall and runs the whole length of the basement (cellar)."It seems that you are thinking 3' wide stairs and landing and want to start down from the center glulam until you run into the base3ment wall, then turn right. Is that it?"Well, really, the gluelam may be the first step (?). Yes, 3 feet finished (drywall). It could be wider, basically, were losing the whole room and hope the county will approve use 'transfering' it to the basement (septic system requirements).
fine... but what do you think of huck's man-bag ?
Hey! What do you have against man purses?
View Image
I bought this CabCommander from Duluth and I love it. I can carry my computer, power adapters, Hilti PD-30 laser, tape measure, writing utensils, calculator, camera, flashlight, spare batteries, stamps, business cards, white out, check book, drafting scale, compass, and much more.
As you can see, I have it pretty full, but if I have my purse with me I can go out and know that I'm not lacking anything important. It's the foundation for my mobile office.
I'm telling you, once you get one, you'll never go back.
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hey....nice logo on your sweatshirtMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I thought you would like it.
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
In Washington the headroom is 6'8".Draw things out full scale. Start with the finish and work back to rough framing.I looked at 2 jobs to day where there will have to be major rework on the carriages.Since you are a DIY'er I'll mention a few things which most people get wrong.If you are going to use hardwoods remember that flooring is 3/4" and treads are 1"-
that means you have to adjust your riser height on the first step. If the landing is to be 3/4" flooring you have to adjust riser height there as well. Repeat from the landing to the second floor.If you don't the first step will be 1/4" too high and the landing 1/4" too low. You just failed the inspection and the worst part is you won't find out until after it is complete.Remember to place a 2x4 between the carriage and the stud wall. That will leave enough clearance for the sheetrock and a skirt.good luck
trying to visualize your situation, I imagine it to be something like this
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"...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
Edited 2/2/2009 9:29 am by Huck
yeah, but he doesn't have a bag like that.
gheydar?View Image "...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
up inthe city they call them metros. Doesn't really define any particular team that they play for but a man-purse is just a bit strange to me.
7g happily using a wallet in my back pocket.
One thing it's critical to check, whether it shows up on the drawings or not, is the headroom over the stairs. It's easy to build yourself into a box where there's no way to fit a legal stairway into the space because of the headroom issue.
Thanks Dan, See my post to Huck. I may help.
if you are planning on hiring a stair builder, ask him/her to provide you with drawings for permits. it shouldn't be an issue. they'll know the code where you are and the fee shouldn't be outrageous.