Drier wiring
Two questions, I am moving the drier from two units across from each other on opposite walls to a stacked unit So. Current line is 8 gage 30 amp aluminum wire two hots and a ground. I do know the current code is 4 wire without taking that into account, should I replace the line to #10 copper I was just going to pull it and move it to the other wall till I found it was AL. Second question can a 110 outlet and a 220 share the same box, it would be easier to cut out the existing single 110 box and replace it with double box with 1-110 and one 1- 220 outlet in the same box, but I don’t know if it is code or not. Or course size the boxes cu Inches correctly.
Thanks Wallyo
Replies
"Current line is 8 gage 30 amp aluminum wire two hots and a ground."
No it is a neutral.
The code is that EXISTING 3 wire circuits can be used for a new dryer.
It is realy a judgement call as to if you can move the exiting wire to a new location.
"Second question can a 110 outlet and a 220 share the same box, "
Yes. But you will will probably need a 3 gage box. IIRC the dryer receptacle needs a 2 gang box. And you will have to fabricate or special order a coverplate.
I have cut the edge off of 2 standard coverplates before for places that I could not find standard ones.
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Bill Do you see a problem with the Al as a conductor itself. Typo, I think you mean a three gang box. That would be a tough cover plate, I know there are the plates that snap together to make various weird configurations don't know if there is one for that though, outlet, blank 220 outlet? You are right my mistake neutral not ground on the third wire add a fourth then you have a ground.Thanks Wallyo
Now problem with the AL.I think that you will find the receptacle marked AL/CU.And put some anti-oxide past on the bare wires..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Bill ... is your keyboard working right? Some of your text in various posts have weird typos ... or is there a short between the keyboard and the computer :)
I believe there's a new common trip rule in the code that would make the breaker for your 110 recept/220 dryer recept in one box kind of an oddball. Easier to just put the dryer recept below and a single gang on the next stud over. Also, do what you can to pull a 10/3 with ground and a 12/2 with ground for the washer circuit. Its the right way to do it and probably not too much more effort than piecing together the old stuff.
"I believe there's a new common trip rule in the code "That is for multi-wire circuit. Not 2 different circuits..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Thanks got it done, just thought I would give an update I often wonder what people did and if they followed any advice given so I thought I would follow up.Bill was right, could not find a wall plate, I did have in my junk box a rare double plate switch on one side 20 amp 220 on the other side, So I did not combine 110 and 220 in one box. It worked out better, even though the dryer plug is in the corner of the wall it gives me the room to reach back and push it in all the way, once the dryer is pushed back. I did run a new #10-3 copper WITH GROUND AS SUGGESTED. Any one need 45' of #8-2 AL with ground?Thanks Wallyo.
"Any one need 45' of #8-2 AL with ground?"I went back and see that I did not completely explain this. So I will add it for lurkers that see this thread.If that was a ground then it was not to code anyway.However, what was often used was SE (service entrance cable) That has the neutral wires spiraling around the hot wires an then covered by the sheath. Those are neutrals even though they are bare.If the old cable was NM ("romex") then you would have had to black, red, and white insulated wires..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Yes it is labeled as SE two black with the bare spiraling around them.WallyoEDIT: as bill says for those lurking, if doing a dryer change over from 3 to 4 wire do pull out the dryer manual and lookup what is the recommended wiring at the terminal block, ie where the ground jumper wire should go.
Edited 1/26/2009 1:24 pm by wallyo