The chuck just came off my drill press and I can’t figure out what was holding it on. It’s a 60’s Rockwell. I found a schematic on line and it doesn’t indicate a screw or anything. The end of the spindle does not seem to have threads, although there is a hole. No parts came out, the chuck just came down while I was drilling. Any ideas on how to repair this? I was only a “C” student in shop.
Thanks, John
Replies
It's a Morse taper. Clean the inside of the chuck and the outside of the spindle with mineral spirits put a block of wood on the table and press the chuck back on.
Were you using a spade bit?
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Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.
~ Denis Diderot
Thanks. No a brad point bit in a piece of oak.John
Vibration will pop mine out, too. I've got a big rosette cutter that almost always loosens the taper.
Clean is the right thing.
Forrest
I was always told to add a few strands of steel wool inside the chuck taper before driving onto the drill press. Not much, just a few to aid the grip.
Hey - have to try that.
Forrest
seems like the steel wool trick would likely cause runout - "there's enough for everyone"
Or worse. My Old guy machinest friend ( 70 yrs in the trades mostly WW2 era) showed me the chalk trick..man it's too simple.
My lathe was constantly loosing gription on the morse and the drive would slip( worn out old lathe) and in 3 seconds he had it tighter than a frog's sphincter, watertight. (G)Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
I'll try the chaluk on my lathe.
Another way I've heard of getting them on real tight is to heat up the chuck a bit so it expands. Then push it on and let it cool.
That sounds wrong. Heating the chuck would expand the tapered shaft on it, when it cools it would shrink. Heating the spindle maybe. Freezing the chuck before inserting it into the spindle might also work .
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
I think popawheelie had it right. Expand the chuck, so it goes a smidgen higher on the spindle. Then it cools and will be tighter. Or chill the spindle, same thing. Though I am having a hard time visualizing how these pieces exist.Anyway, heat the part with the 'hole'. Chill the part with the 'stick'.
The chuck has the tapered shank. http://www.beautifuliron.com/jacobs.htm
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
I understand the backwards/upside down misunderstanding.
I had a drill press that had two tapers a long time ago. Huge WW2 surplus with a 2.5x 3.5 cast iron table. The only problem it was 3 phase and had a lot of runout.
The shaft coming down had a hole in the end with a taper.
Then there was a short piece with a taper on both ends. Each taper had a different morse taper #.
Then there was a chuck with a hole in it.
So which taper came out?
Do all drill presses have this set up?
The short shaft attached to your chuck comes out the back of your chuck. It is a morse taper. You've just never had it come out that's all.
My drill press chuck has a set screw inside the jaws that locks the actual chuck to the Morse taper shaft.
Without either breaking the screw of removing it the chuck itself cannot be removed from the taper.
I can understand the issue though, just never had the screw come out of mine although the taper has dropped out of the shaft a time or two.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
I'm not sure if the drill press I had was the same as others. It might have had a screw or not. One of the problems was the run out at the chuck. When you have runout you need to check everything. So I had everything apart.
I ended up selling it. To much tool for me.
AFIK..there are 4 morse tapers, MY Delta has a #2 on the quill and a #1 on the chuck ( I think) I have never had a chuck to morse let go, but morse to quill was often. I have a drift punch/key that is made for tapping out the quill. IIRC it was needed to attach the morticing doo dad.
I restate..the biggest concern is the flat dog that engages with the quill, if it is not aligned, the morse won't seat fully..and the chuck and attached morse will fall out.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Get the grease off it, and rub it with chalk. It works.
I clean the taper socket as well with a swab like a shotgun uses, and naptha or gun cleaning solvent. Chalk makes for friction and the chuck will stay put. Rememer there is a "dog" on th eend of the morse, it needs to be alinged w/the slot up in the spindle.
I whack it all in with a rubber mallet.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
John,
Clean = good!
a light rub with scotchbright and oil to get the crud off.
clean again to get the oil off.
Chalk = Good!
Steel wool = very bad!
Heat is not necessary.
Bill
Like others said it is a morse taper. The hole in the end is threaded, if the spindle (this is the shaft that holds the morse tapered chuck) has a hole in it, then you can easily tighten the chuck with a threaded rod ,nut and washer.Not all drill presses have a hollow spindle, then you must do as another post recommends,open the jaws completely,place a block of wood over the jaws and smack upwards with a heavy hammmer.
If you have a hole thru the spindle,first try a 3/8 threaded rod in the chuck, or a 1/2" rod whatever is correct. Push the chuck up into the spindle after cleaning the morse taper and the hole too.Then screw the rod down from the top.add a washer and a nut.Tighten the nut and it will pill the taper upwards until it can't go any further.
This method is surefire,even if the taper is not completely clean or scratched up. When done remove the rod. Cut the rod above the nut and save it.If you want to remove the chuck someday you will need it to tap the chuck down.
mike